Winemaker Carla Herbst says of the 2012 chenin blanc recently released by Perdeberg: “(It) shows great character and is truly a stunning wine.”
Many who tried it at the Good Food and Wine Show agreed. The 35-year-old bush vines, which are not irrigated, yielded smaller berries and the harvest was down by 14 percent thanks to a dry growing season. On the plus side, this helped produce wine that is concentrated and fruity, the vibrant citrus, melon and kiwi fruit notes tempered with enough acidity to ensure sprightliness. Having recently sampled this alongside its 2011 counterpart, Perdeberg’s new vintage offers more intense fruit, but both offer good value at R33.
Perdeberg Winery marked its 70th birthday last year, looking back to its first pressing, which was done manually during World War II. Chenin blanc has long been one of its strong points and, by 1998, the Platter wine guide said of its chenins: “Consistent, concentrated dry white from old, low-yield bush vines… with penetrating guava ripeness, full lingering flavours.”
This was around the time the first stirrings of the chenin renaissance started, with Perdeberg ahead of the pack. The cellar boasts 2 070 hectares of vines in Paarl, Malmesbury, Agter-Paarl and Durbanville, of which nearly 80 percent are dryland bush vines, that is, neither irrigated nor trellised. These offer the fruit concentration for which Perdeberg is renowned.
Those looking for chenin with more depth should enjoy the 2011 Chenin Blanc Reserve, well balanced, oak nicely complementing stone and tropical fruit. It will partner with winter salads, cheese dishes, poultry and white meats.
For a bubbly start to weekend brunch, there’s a 2012 sparkling chenin blanc – (R36) – pale and perky fizz, or mix it with peach, orange or pineapple juice. There’s a classier alternative in the form of an elegant cap classique: the 2009 Blanc de Blanc (R85) can compete comfortably with others costing considerably more.
Produced largely for export to Germany, Perdeberg’s Waka Waka range is now stocked by a local supermarket chain. Along with two red blends, there is a pleasing chenin/sauvignon blanc priced at R36 from the cellar. There is still stock of the flagship Rex Equus ’08 (R180), the full-bodied barrel-aged patrician, which I have not re-tasted.
While it’s an admirable example of winemaking, some find these top-notch chenins too intense and overpowering to enjoy more than a couple of sips. But that’s the beauty of chenin – we can find a wine to suit our palates as well as our pockets, as Cape chenin is being produced in a diversity of styles from venerable vines that are the envy of some of our international competitors.
Looking ahead, 2012 should see chenin blanc increase in popularity with several planned events.
The Chenin Blanc Association is finalising details for a conference, Cape Chenin Unveiled, at the One and Only hotel in September, just before the Cape Wine 2012 show.
In October a summer showcase is scheduled at the Twelve Apostles Hotel and the wine will also star at the Spier Secret Festival at the month end. - Weekend Argus