Reds to suit all pockets

Published Jun 11, 2014

Share

Cape Town - Bordeaux and Burgundy are regions whose names have become synonymous with the world’s most renowned wines. In the former, it’s nearly always a red blend that makes the headlines as the priciest and most sought-after wine, and it usually – but not always – is comprised of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. Winelovers will come across hundreds of others, in the medium and lower-priced sectors that vary in quality from good to indifferent.

Here at the Cape, much the same applies: some of our top winemakers produce Cape Bordeaux-style blends of impressive quality, usually sourced from vines around Stellenbosch and the Helderberg, where soils have proven ideal for classic cultivars. Those at the top are pretty expensive, but – unlike France – we have a better choice of blends that are affordable and enjoyable. If you are unsure and cannot taste, stay with well-known brands at the top of the log. But take every chance you can to sample blends from little-known cellars, as this is the best (and most enjoyable) route to unearthing vinous treasure.

Winemaker and viticulturist Chris Keet established his reputation as a maker of superb reds when he produced wines at Cordoba on the Helderberg hillside. He went on to consult for several high-flyers, until the urge to produce his own resulted in the maiden vintage of First Verse in 2009, a highly rated five-way Bordeaux blend of restrained elegance. He repeated the act with a classy 2010, crafted in a new cellar on a small farm named Tarentaal in the Polkadraai area.

The latter belongs to Julia and Anton van Biljon, who asked Chris to make a Bordeaux-style blend from their own grapes, planted in 2004. The maiden Van Biljon Cinq 2011 fulfilled their hopes in fine style: This patrician blend of half cabernet with 20 percent merlot and 15 percent each of cab franc and malbec presents dark fruit, spice and smooth tannins in a harmonious blend with a long future. Meanwhile, Keet’s second vintage, First Verse 2010, has attracted five Platter stars, blending 32 percent cab franc with 27 percent merlot, 23 percent cab, 14 percent petit verdot and a dash of malbec with elegant and powerful results, each component contributing toward a wine with soul, to use Keet’s own phrase. Both are limited releases, priced at R280 for the Cinq and R320 for First Verse.

Staying in Stellenbosch, two insurance industry colleagues and wine enthusiasts established a tiny boutique winery just over a decade ago at Bosman’s Crossing. They called it The High Road, and turned to well-known winemaker Mark Carmichael-Green and viticulturist Paul Wallace to produce a Bordeaux blend that would fulfill their ambition. The Director’s Reserve 2010 sports a Veritas Double Gold sticker, and is meticulously made, using mostly cabernet, with some merlot and a little cab franc, finished with a dash of petit verdot. Helderberg grapes were sourced and new French oak adds substance to this red, selling for R250. Visit www.thehighroad.co.za for more information.

To Constantia for Bordeaux blend, Constantia Glen’s FIVE 2009, the third vintage of this wine from lofty Peninsula vineyards, is made by Justin van Wyk and highly rated. It’s petit verdot, led with cab playing a very minor role. Smooth and intense, with great ageing potential, get this superior red from the cellar door for R270.

 

Taste Cape’s finest at Burgundy Lovers’ Fest

When referring to Burgundian wines, we’re looking at reds made from pinot noir and whites from chardonnay. In contrast to Bordeaux, the Gallic region sports few chateaux as the vineyards were taken back from the church after the French Revolution and distributed in small parcels to thepeasants. The new owners sold their wine under the name of the nearest village, a practice that still survives. In the Cape, pinot noir is establishing itself with greater authority year on year, while top chardonnays have leapt in quality over the last few years to new heights.

Taste the Cape’s finest at the fourth Burgundy Lovers’ Festival, hosted by Wine Concepts, at the Vineyard Hotel in Newlands on Friday, June 13 from 5pm to 8pm. Forty of the Cape’s top chardonnay and pinot producers will showcase their best while the hotel serves snacks to complement.

Prizes await winners and wines will be discounted by 10 percent during the show. Entry is R160 for pre-booked tickets and R170 at the door. Book through [email protected] or www.webtickets.co.za. Call Corlien Morris on 083 379 0030 for more information.

Weekend Argus

Related Topics: