The man who made the ordinary extraordinary

UZIHAMBELA yedwa umthungi osemncane noqale inkampani ethungela izidudla. Lapha umi nabamodela ngemiswenko yakhe uDipho noWesley Isithombe: SHAN PILLAY

UZIHAMBELA yedwa umthungi osemncane noqale inkampani ethungela izidudla. Lapha umi nabamodela ngemiswenko yakhe uDipho noWesley Isithombe: SHAN PILLAY

Published Aug 22, 2014

Share

Johannesburg - As one of the original founders of the Chenin Blanc Association of SA, Ken Forrester’s name has become synonymous with promoting this previously defined “workhorse” grape as a serious variety.

In 1993, he had bought the historic Scholtzenhof property outside Stellenbosch on auction and discovered it was planted with chenin, which, at the time, wasn’t in demand locally, even though was is highly valued in France.

Realising its potential, he enlisted the help of his neighbour, Martin Meinert, to produce chenin blanc that could rival the world’s best white wines.

Chenin blanc is believed to have been grown in the Anjou region of France since the ninth century. Jan Van Riebeeck introduced the first vines to the Cape in 1655, with documents suggesting three varieties: Groendruif (semillon), Fransdruif and Steen.

It became the colony’s most widely planted variety, mostly due to its versatility – allowing winemakers to make just about any style of wine, from semi-sweet to dry; noble late harvest to even spirits.

At the time “steen” was thought to be stein, of Germanic origin, rather than chenin blanc, the white wine variety from the Loire Valley. This view was apparently backed by a note written by Cape Governor Simon van der Stel who said wine made from steen was comparable to the quality German stein wines.

Steen came to prominence in the first half of the 20th century as a base for South African brandy.

In the 1960s, Lieberstein, the semi-sweet blend of steen and clairette blanche, was hugely successful. It was, for a while, the world’s best-selling single brand of bottled wine.

Forrester, who started his career in the early days of Southern Sun in 1977, is a self-taught winemaker, having started as a garagiste mentored by Meinert.

But while Forrester is the king of chenin in South Africa, he’s known for his diverse portfolio of red, white and noble late harvest wines. His own labels include four tiers – the accessible, quaffable Petit (which you find on supermarket shelves), the more serious Ken Forrester, the single varietal Icon and the Cellar Exclusives ranges.

Meinert and Forrester are also behind the premium FMC blend (Forrester Meinert Chenin), produced from an old bush vine bloc in front of the property’s tasting room. Only limited quantities of the FMC are made a year – it’s that rare.

There’s a cap classique too – the Sparklehorse is made from a 100 percent chenin – but if you don’t put your orders in early, you won’t have the pleasure. When we visited, the tasting room had run out. Disappointing.

Averse to pesticides, their geese and ducks control insects; their horses add to the composting process; and they till, prune and thin bunches by hand.

Forrester, his brother Allan, Meinert and chef Natasha Wray are partners in 96 Winery Road on an adjacent property. It’s glorious in winter beside their huge fireplace, or in summer in the garden.

Specialities are the duck and cherry pie from Gatrilles (Forrester’s original restaurant in Hillbrow); “Hollandse” pepper fillet; and roasted quail with prune and sausage stuffing.

The property offers comfortable self-catering accommodation too, which overlooks their vineyards.

Saturday Star

Related Topics: