Cape Town - Riesling rocks. It also delights, surprises and excites those who have discovered its numerous charms. As the number of Cape wine producers adding this cultivar to their white wine production slowly increases, local and visiting enthusiasts are finding agreeable rieslings across our regions.
It’s been said before and is worth repeating – a generation of South African wine drinkers got confusing messages about riesling in this country as a few large producers labelled bottles of crouchen blanc as Cape Riesling. (One Tulbagh producer still does.)
As crouchen is an undistinguished white grape, used mostly for blending, those Cape cellars producing real riesling had to label their products as Weisser or Rhine. Today the scene is changing, with rieslings being labelled as just that.
To quote Sothebys Wine Encyclopaedia, classic German riesling “produces a zesty, citrusy, intensely flavoured wine of great minerally complexity, length and longevity. When grown on certain soils, the terpenes in riesling benefit from bottle-age and can, after several years, develop a so-called petrolly bouquet…”
Those curious to compare homegrown rieslings have a great opportunity to do so during the 2014 Riesling Rocks, a one-day celebration at Hartenberg estate. As rieslings are not only versatile, but make exceptional food partners, a wide range of fine fare will be on hand.
Dry rieslings pair well with seafood, sushi and some antipasti, while off-dry enhance spicier fare like Thai stir-fries, chorizo and herring. The sweeter rieslings pair delectably well with rich patés and terrines, duck and some curries. And dessert rieslings can lift certain cheese and fruit tarts to mouthwatering heights. This event, an annual favourite, is also taking line honours as the first vinous fest of the year.
Of the eight producers taking part, I previewed the rieslings of four. The host cellar’s 2011 riesling has already proved its worth, with a string of awards both local and international: Hartenberg Riesling offers citrusy aromas, followed by flavours of spice and both green and stone fruit. About a quarter of the harvest showed botrytis, and this adds perceptible richness, making it a wine that can enhance Cape Malay classics like boboties.
From Klein Constantia, the 2012 riesling is golden and intense, produced from an old and a young vineyard block, the former lending zest, citrus and crisp acidity, the latter providing structure. Those who tuck away a case in a cool spot for a few years are likely to be well rewarded.
From Spioenkop in the Elgin valley, a 2012 dry riesling fulfils cool climate expectations: it’s clean, flinty and zesty, with verdant flavours dominating. One taster instantly picked up the goût de petrol on the nose without knowing it was a characteristic of some rieslings. This is another example that should improve with cellaring, but it will accompany shellfish and superior salads right now.
The youngest riesling sampled was made by Nederburg’s cellarmaster Razvan Macici, who has put the large estate back on the map. He used grapes from three regions to produce a 2013 vintage that is off-dry, presenting crisp citrus and pineapple to accompany seafood.
Visitors will also find rieslings from De Wetshof, Groote Post, Nitida and Thelema at the fest.
Riesling Rocks takes place from noon to 5pm on January 25. E-mail [email protected] for more information.
WINE CALENDAR: Harvest celebration, a picnic and grape stomping
* The annual Start of Harvest celebration takes place at Delheim estate over the last weekend in January. The fun starts at noon on both days, when must and a mosbolletjie are given to guests, who then help themselves from a buffet and relish a picnic at the shady riverside. The main event is the grape-stomping contest with music to enliven proceedings. Tickets cost R220 for adults and R110 for children under 12. Visitor numbers are limited to 120, so book your place soon by e-mailing [email protected].
* Avontuur estate, outside Somerset West, is offering horse and wine lovers a joint experience on January 29 and 30, from 11am. The event is limited to 20 visitors who will meet the estate’s top-rated stallions at the stables with Pippa Mickleburgh, followed by a wine tasting and light lunch. Booking and pre-payment are essential. The event costs R250 and bookings can be e-mailed to [email protected].
* The Melck family will host their annual harvest festival at Muratie, outside Stellenbosch, from 11.30am on March 1. Entrance is free and visitors will be poured a free glass of wine on arrival. Hamburgers and cheese platters will be on sale and the Farm Kitchen will be open for lunch with wines by the glass or bottle, accompanied by live music. Cellar and vineyard tours can be taken, grapes can be stomped and a vertical wine-tasting taking place at noon costs R50. E-mail [email protected] for more information. - Weekend Argus