Cheers to organic food and wine

Published Sep 25, 2015

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Cape Town - Organic food options are on the increase in South Africa and it’s now easier and more convenient to join the organic movement.

But going organic does not only relate to the food you eat, it’s also about what you drink and a growing number of wineries and breweries are now offering sustainably produced alcoholic beverages.

Organic Awareness Week, which runs until Sunday, is being celebrated across the world and consumers are being urged to switch to a sustainable and organic diet.

“Organic is generally understood as being free of pesticides and herbicides, but in fact means so much more and is something about which consumers are largely ignorant. It is a holistic way of farming that considers the sustainability of people’s health as well as that of the environment,” says Samuel Viljoen, a winemaker at Earthbound Wines, South Africa’s only certified organic and Fairtrade wine.

“While this means farmers work with an area’s climate and use only certified organic control measures that protect and build the soil, it is not ‘Mother Nature’ farming. You still need to offer guidance. It’s certainly not a dream world where grapes fall by themselves; it takes labour to get the vine to produce what it needs to,” says Viljoen.

Exposed to wine and winemaking at an early age on his grandfather’s wine farm near Worcester, Viljoen has been producing Earthbound organic wines at Papkuilsfontein farm near Darling since 2007.

“There was an international demand for organic wine and nowhere in our portfolio as a company did we have organic wines. Being a dryland farm in a relatively dry area where you have fewer problems with diseases, it was regarded as ideal for organic farming,” says Viljoen.

“The impact of climate can play a key role in organic farming. Grape farms in drier areas have relatively fewer problems with diseases and pests, whereas increased moisture in the vineyards can result in mildew and other diseases. Farms certified as organic are required to keep meticulous records of substances used to control disease and pests,” he explains.

“In organic farming, we’re only allowed to use copper for downy mildew and sulphur for powdery mildew… those are the biggest challenges. And when it rains, you may not use any systemic agents. Also, you can’t just accomplish an organic farm in one year and leave it. To get your certification takes a minimum of three years, where the soil is prepared and processes brought in line.

“It’s an investment, but the outcome is a quality wine that is lower in added sulphite and that has limited its impact on the environment during production. This is good news if you enjoy a fruity Pinotage or a crisp Sauvignon with your meal,” says Viljoen.

In the case of wine, organic certification is strictly regulated globally, and there are stringent rules that must be complied with. If wines carry an organic certification, they can be bought and consumed with confidence. Viljoen encourages consumers to choose labels that bear an organically certified stamp or the words “certified organic”.

“Organic wine can stand alongside conventional wine. Our organic wines compete in all the major competitions; we compete in the mainstream contests and we have brought home medals. Organic isn’t an excuse to make a poor wine – if a wine is not up to scratch, the consumer won’t buy a second bottle, irrespective of the message,” he says.

Consumer activist and food researcher Sonia Mountford says organic produce is becoming more readily available in South Africa, although it is still a relatively niche product.

While organic products can be found in selected national supermarkets, she suggests that the best way to source organic foods is to buy directly from a trusted and transparent small retailers, organic markets or producers.

“There is no organic legislation in South Africa and we rely on third party certification based on other countries’ legislation, which may not be 100 percent relevant to us. As a consequence of an unregulated organic market, there is confusion about what organic produce actually is,” she explains.

“Adding to this challenge is the fact that organic agriculture is not well enough supported in South Africa, making it harder for organic farmers to survive,” she adds.

To overcome this, consumers can grow their own produce or buy from PGS-certified (Organic Participatory Guarantee System) producers, such as Green Road in Stellenbosch, Cape Town or Bryanston Organic Market in Joburg, says Mountford.

PGS is a voluntary group of growers, retailers and consumers who support organic agriculture and local food production.

“The best advice I can offer conscious consumers is to know their farmer. Find out how they produce their food, visit the farm, ask questions and choose your produce with the peace of mind that it is properly certified and truly good for you.

“Now is as good a time as any to go organic.

“Start small and introduce just a few organic products into your diet such as soft fruits; then build up as you become more used to buying directly from producers, or choosing organically certified wines and products in store,” says Mountford.

“In so doing, you’ll reap the myriad personal health benefits that organic living enjoys, while playing a major role in conserving the environment’s precious ecosystem.”

*An alternative to farmers’ markets are online shops such as www.thinkorganic.co.za in Cape Town. Each week they will deliver boxes or bags of seasonal veggies and fruits directly to your home or office door.

POPULAR: The Earth Fair Market in St George’s Mall

Know your farmer

To ensure you’re tucking into hormone, antibiotic, pesticide and herbicide-free foods, visit your local farmers’ market instead, suggests Sheryl Ozinsky, founder of theOranjezicht City Farm.

There you can buy fresh produce – including eggs, bread, cheese, vegetables or fruit – directly from the producers, while soaking up the community atmosphere.

Tips on how to eat and drink better

Grow your own

If you’re a city slicker and don’t have a garden in which to grow your own, try sprouting. A great way to add a nutritious, “organic” twist to your meals, sprouts can easily be cultivated in your kitchen, says Daniel Jardim, founder of Seasonal Cookery retreats and demonstrations.

Some of the more common sprouts are mung bean, alfalfa, lentil and chickpea. Organic seeds can be bought from most health shops or online at www.sproutingseeds.co.za.

Eat seasonally

“Different foods are in season at different times. If you’re eating asparagus in winter, it’s likely to have been imported. By buying directly from a farmer or a local farmers market, you’ll have access only to what is growing at the time, it will be fresh and local and you’ll benefit from knowing that you are helping to support small local farmers,” says Ozinsky.

Cheers to living lightly

Choosing fresh, organic produce rather than heavily preserved store-bought goods doesn’t only apply to food. It also includes wine and other alcoholic beverages. For a wine to be organic, it needs to be produced in a particular way, says Viljoen.

This includes ensuring the grapes are planted with enough space so that, when it rains, they can dry easily without rotting. Owls are used as alternative pest controls and sulphur is kept to a minimum.

Hold the preservatives

Among the many benefits of eating fresh produce is its lack of additives. Anything in a packet or bottle that has been pre-made is likely to have added salt, sugar or other hidden ingredients in it. Where possible, choose foods and drinks that have been produced organically, without the interference of added anything, says Roger Jorgensen of Jorgensen’s Distillery in Wellington.

Choose drug-free meat

Commercially farmed meat is loaded with hormones and antibiotics, which are passed on to consumers through the animal’s fat and tissue. If the only additive you’d like on your steak is sea salt, source your organic meat directly from the farmer, from markets or organic retailers.

* Supplied by Paula Wilson Media Consulting for Cape Legends sources from five South African organic and fresh produce enthusiasts.

Organic markets

* The Oranjezicht City Farm – open every day (except Sundays), 8am to 4pm.

* Earth Fair Food Market at the South PalmsCentre in Tokai – open on Wednesdays, 3pm to 8.30pm, and Saturdays, 9am to 2pm.

* Earth Fair Food Market in St George’s Mall, central Cape Town – open every Thursday, 11am to 3pm.

* The Neighbourgoods Marketat the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock – open every Saturday, 9am to 2pm.

* Bay Harbour Market at 31Harbour Rd, Hout Bay – open onFridays, 5pm to 9pm, andSaturdays and Sundays, 9.30am to 4pm.

* The Hope Street Market at 14 Hope Street, Gardens – open every Thursday, 4.30pm to 8.30pm.

Cape Argus

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