Pub grub takes to culinary makeover

Published Nov 12, 2010

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LIVINGSTON'S GASTRO PUB

Glenore Centre, Glenashley

Tel: 031 562 9018

Linvingston's has been a long time coming for those regulars who frequent places like Butcher Boys and the buzzing Billy the Bum's cocktail bar and restaurant. Months of planning and refurbishments are now complete with the opening of Durban's first gastro pub, which is described as "a name given to a British public house that serves culinary fare a step above traditional pub grub".

Quite right.

On a recent visit to a place which used to house a short-lived Indian restaurant, millions have been spent in building a new bar, an impressive restaurant section (with comfortable chairs and booths) which open to a deck overlooking the sea.

Men in charge are former Billy's co-owner Rowan Brouard and Joe de Wet, who also had experience at Billy's, which along with Butcher Boys falls under the same umbrella company.

So, in a way, I would say Livingston's is almost an upmarket amalgamation of Billy's and Butcher Boys where the food is excellent - but also great for those who enjoy lounging around a bar and having the option to eat when the hunger pangs strike.

Certainly the menu is eclectic and has food for any tastes.

We started with crispy fried prawns, which is four queen prawns dipped in a light tempura batter and served with teriyaki mayo and avocado salsa.

Someone else ordered the escargots and proclaimed them the best snails she had eaten, while another had the carpaccio trio - beef, ostrich and smoked venison - rolled in pepper, mustard and herbs, which was first class.

Most of the starters are in the R35 to R45 range.

Mussels, baby squid and chicken livers are among other appetisers before one gets to the platters, which would be ideal for a lunch or bar snack. These start at R70 and go up to R170, which can obviously be shared by at last four people.

We skipped over the six, very tasty-looking salads and wraps and headed for the mains, of which there are plenty of choices.

The Crown Jewel, in more ways than one (it is the name of the dish), came out tops with two at the table ordering this 300g piece of well-aged rib-eye steak, basted and grilled on an open flame, topped with Café de Paris butter.

It was superb, medium rare and rare for the others, with excellent chips (with their skins still intact). At R95, plus R18 for the spuds, this is really great value.

I decided to go with my old faithful of fillet steak with a green peppercorn sauce, but also had my eye on the spatchcock chicken which a friend told me was very good, with a combined lemon and herb and peri peri taste.

Other mains include lamb cutlets, a pork chop dish glazed with dark rum and maple butter sauce, eisbein and even bangers and mash.

There are three burgers and also fish cakes and fish and chips for R60. Other items which are proving popular are the classic pies. They should be because the chef used to work at the nearby Steak and Ale.

A beef and Guinness pie was just right, nice and crispy, a light crust and plenty of filling. In fact, the management is thinking of having a pie and pint night and this should prove a hit.

On to the desserts and they went down a treat with crème brulée, malva pudding, chocolate brownies and the ubiquitous liqueur coffees and Dom Pedros.

As expected, the Livingston's wine list is comprehensive and their house wines are recommended. The white is called Ivory and is a sauvignon blanc and chardonnay blend (R70), while the Ebony is a cab/merlot blend at R75.

Naturally, there is also a full choice of cocktails.

Livingston's is a welcome addition to the Durban dining and drinking scene and should be a roaring success.

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