Yes you may enjoy autumn food

Published May 13, 2011

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Friday night in the newsroom of a London Sunday paper and, as the work slows, one of the weightier (in more ways than one) commentators carefully climbs on his chair and recites a traditional Brit poem amid hopeful cheers.

Hurray, hurray!

The first of May:

Outdoor sex

Begins today!

You have to admire the sheer courage and optimism of those who live in Britain where May, in my experience, is a near-fatal threat from exposure. It explains, I suppose, that precaution they take of wearing socks with open sandals in summer.

Meanwhile, we experience the delights of Maytime here where almost everything we eat is at its best and cheapest, the days are warm, the nights crisp and appetites are well rewarded.

This year vegetable and fruit prices are well above the usual in this season of plenty. But at least a portion of that must be the general inflation triggered by rising world food demand and the huge increase in fuel prices.

The long view is a steady rise overall. So - if you spot attractive prices now - consider investing in a few kilos to freeze or pickle to ease the dreaded Christmas rise.

Domestic meat prices are fairly stable at the moment, but beef is tipped to fall this month and rise again in June. Wholesale carcass A-grade prices are up-and-down on R26.70/kg and C-Grade moves around R22.60/kg.

Pork is paying the penalty of still being the best bargain meat as it moves up to about wholesale carcass prices of R16.90/kg for porkers and R15.70/kg for baconers. Compare your retail prices and make your opinion known if indicated.

Chicken seems to be manipulated rather wildly here and there. Domestic-wholesale unfrozen medium birds should be around R19.80/kg. Frozen: around R15.65/kg. But it is amazing how often, in the shops, when I feel a recently shelved “fresh” bird, that it feels hard and frozen just beneath the surface when I give it a little squeeze. Check that - and then check the retail price. I’ve found thawed frozen birds - wholesale at near R15.65 - going for R22 to R28.50 a kilo.

Lamb and mutton prices remain heart-stoppers because of Australian and New Zealand disasters. Local Class A mutton moves around R42.25 at the moment and Class C2 are around R31.21/kg. Imported Australian and New Zealand mutton shoulder is about R36.95/kg. We could be worse off, of course. British lamb raisers now have to dye their stock bright orange to stop the midnight rustlers.

Venison is available in bigger quantities. Checkers started off with a big showing, including the favourite bone-in leg at R52/kg. Now stewing cuts are coming in at other butchers as well with prices down around thirty-something a kilo. Good hunting!

MAY RECIPES…

Hidden Pears - a great complex salad for 6

6 ripe pears

wine or cider vinegar

endive or lettuce leaves

Salt and fresh black pepper

a pinch of ground juniper

paprika

1tbs lemon juice

1tsp lemon zest

1tbs chopped chives

150ml single cream

400ml cream cheese

1 Mix in a medium bowl: 50ml wine, cider or tarragon vinegar, the lemon juice and the pinch of ground juniper berries.

2 Peel the pears (optional) and quarter, removing the core pieces.

3 Place in the bowl and swoosh until they have been thoroughly coated.

4 Remove pear quarters to a serving platter and arrange, rounded surface down on endive or lettuce leaves.

5 Beat together the cream and cream cheese with 30ml of the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to your taste and beat it in. Pour the sauce over the pears. Sprinkle lightly with paprika. Sprinkle on the chopped chives.

Autumn Pepper Steaks for 2

450g thick-cut, aged rump or sirloin steak, preferably grass-fed.

100ml olive oil

2tbs cider vinegar

half a red cabbage

2 seedless, peeled and segmented oranges

Rocket leaves

2 Granny Smith apples, cored and sliced thinly

1tbs freshly ground black pepper, salt

1 Scatter the black pepper on both sides of the steak. Rub it in. Mix 1tbs of the cider vinegar with the olive oil. Brush the steak generously, retaining about half, with this mixture. Let the steak marinate for an hour.

2 Core the cabbage and then slice it very thinly with a very sharp knife and place in a serving bowl. Add the segments of orange and the apple slices. Mix a big pinch of salt with the rest of the oil and vinegar mix and pour over. Toss together thoroughly.

3 Heat a thick pan big enough for the steak until very hot. Fry for five minutes a side. Set aside on a warmed plate for another five minutes. Divide and serve with the salad.

Pickled Pears.

A long-lasting treat with ham, pork, duck or venison.

6 large ripe but firm pears

500g sugar

250ml white or red wine

vinegar - whichever you prefer for colour

1tsp whole cloves

1tsp whole allspice

Small piece of nutmeg

1 Peel, core and cut pears into 8 slices each.

2 Cover with water in a pan and boil quickly for 5 minutes. Strain and measure liquid.

3 To 600ml add sugar, vinegar and spices. Pour over pears and simmer until translucent - about 20 minutes.

4 Leave overnight. Drain off and boil down liquid for 5 minutes.

5 Pack pears into sterilised jars. Pour the boiling syrup, including spices, to cover and seal while warm. Wait a month before using.

Hampshire Pork and Apple Pie.

This is a gorgeous combination, serves 6

500g lean pork cut, cut into small pieces

Salt

fresh black pepper

2 big Granny Smith apples peeled and thinly sliced

2 medium onions, sliced

1kg potatoes, thinly sliced

1tsp sage or oregano

30g cooking fat

250ml meat stock

about 200g shortcrust pastry or potato mash

1 Season pork with salt and pepper.

2 Layer the pork with the apple, onions and potato slices in a greased pie dish, sprinkle the sage or oregano and seasoning all over.

3 Dot with dripping, lard or butter.

4 Pour in the stock and cover with foil or greaseproof paper.

5 Bake for 1 hour 30 minutes in a 170ºC oven. Cool and cover with pastry or mash. Bake for 30 minutes at 220ºC. Serve hot.

Honeydew Melon Tart.

This delicious tart can be served warm or cold.

about 750g melon, peeled and seeded

A large egg yolk

60g sugar

30g ground almonds

grated peel and juice of 1 lemon

1 large egg white, beaten stiff

30g blanched and split almonds

sweet shortcrust pastry, chilled

Syrup: 150g sugar

1tbs kirsch or brandy

1 Slice the melon, discarding peel and seeds. Keep slices as even as possible.

2 Mix the yolk, sugar, almonds, grated peel and lemon juice. Fold in egg white and split almonds.

3 Roll out pastry and line 25cm tart tin. Pour in the egg filling. Bake at 190ºC for 25 minutes - until filling is well risen and slightly browned.

4 Meanwhile, make the syrup: boil together the sugar and 125ml water until reduced by half. When tepid add kirsch or brandy. Arrange the melon slices on the hot tart. Brush over with the syrup to make a glaze.

VEGETABLES IN SEASON NOW:

Jerusalem artichokes

Avocado pears

Butternut squash

Beetroot

Broad beans

Cauliflower

Celery

Chillies

Endive

Fennel

Green beans

Hubbard squash

Onions

Sweet potatoes

Small new potatoes

FRUITS IN SEASON NOW:

Apples

Pears

Lemons

Oranges

Grapefruit

Cape gooseberries

Honeydew melons

Quinces -Sunday Tribune

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