Cape Town - Patterns and colours ruled the runway at the inaugural SA Menswear Week this weekend.
Held in the V&A Waterfront’s Breakwater parking lot, fashion enthusiasts from across the country gathered, dressed to impress, for the three-day event.
The hot and humid parking area was without air-conditioning, but this did not dampen the spirits of the few industry influencers who made the cut.
Over the three days, ending on Saturday, more than 20 designers showcased their latest collections in two venues.
Genevieve Lyons started proceedings with a minimal collection of grey, blue and white hues. She was followed by a presentation of designers from the Swahili Fashion Week. who gave an idea of what is taking place on the continent just north of the country.
Highlights on the first day included the CTFC Young Designers presentation by Lukhanyo Mdingi and Oath by Rich Mnisi, and CSquared, the cutting edge brand for the dapper man.
Day two included an African Designers slot by Mustafa Hassanali and Abarantie The Gentleman. Tanzanian fashion designer Hassanali presented a collection of African prints in red, green and yellow. The collection was made up of sexy short-shorts that clung tight around the thighs and kaftans of different lengths.
Hassanali’s collections, which include detailed embellishments and beadwork on figures complementing silhouettes, have been shown at the world’s top fashion weeks and he has featured top models.
His work at the weekend was his first menswear-focused collection. He says that Zanzibar’s white beaches were a strong inspiration behind the resort collection.
“This is a collection that can be worn to the beach, but it would also work for the serious businessman who prefers to go to the beach in a suit,” says Hassanali.
“More and more men are experimenting with fashion and taking risks with colourful clothes that celebrate Africa. But even though men are more adventurous and trying new styles, they still love the traditional kaftan which is why I included it my collection.
“Since it’s a resort collection there is nothing serious about it. I love reds and blues – the louder the colours the better for me.”
Hassanali says South Africa is the continent’s New York of fashion as it offers designers more exposure and opportunities. “Cape Town is the perfect place for this event as it’s more relaxed and diverse, while Joburg is more business-oriented.”.
Another of the highlights on day two was Lucky Luke, who presented a monochrome collection that included the muscular crop-top. This trend is fast gaining popularity on top runways across the world. Joburg-based Afro-vintage label Magents received a standing ovation for their collection of edgy streetwear that celebrates South Africa’s heritage and culture.
The line-up on Saturday included Bastion Menswear FMBCJ by Craig Jacobs and a Durban Fashion Fair showcase by Kujula Mtambo of Gravitie and Duke by Sandile Mngadi.
Mngadi says the biggest trend for men currently is the pattern-on-pattern look.
“It’s all about layering different patterns together. Men shouldn’t be afraid of wearing clashing prints and patterns anymore. And also wearing sheer materials in lace or chiffon. But keep it tasteful and classy, we don’t want to see everything.”
The fashion affair ended on a high note with the “Prince of Prints” Chu Suwannapha’s debut collection, Chulaap, which means “luck and success”.
The Thailand-born Suwannapha’s highly anticipated range did not disappoint. Inspired by South Africa street styles, he showcased 20 looks in African prints with a Japanese twist. The range included wide-leg pants, oversized jerseys, hoodies and ponchos. The styling for most of the shows, included chic backpacks and leather duffel bags, while Palse Homme went for the most captivating makeup – a painted eye mask that gave the models a mysterious look.
M.A.C Cosmetics communications manager Keagan Cafun says that styling for a menswear fashion show requires as much effort as for a women-focused fashion show. “Summer make-up trends are all about moisturising and hydrating the skin for both men and women. In that way you can maintain that fresh look, use less products and keep your skin plump and supple.”
The organisers plan to run the SA Menswear Week twice a year
Model to watch brings diversity to mainstream
At just 20, Sanele Xaba is fast becoming one of the most recognised faces on the SA fashion scene.
Born, raised and then scouted in Durban at 15, his hard work and dedication are paying off. His big break came when André Martin of LIFE made him the face of his 2013 campaign. Since then he has walked for him in some of the country’s top fashion shows and has been featured in several fashion catalogues and magazines.
“Martin understood my vision of how I wanted to get albinism into mainstream fashion instead of being used in high fashion campaigns only. He gave me the platform to be more street and edgy which opened up more opportunities for me,” says Xaba.
Now based in Joburg, he says the fashion industry in South Africa is slowly embracing diversity and opening up to unique looks in models.
“The industry is going through a transition period where people like me are being recognised. Designers are asking for different looks. There is a vast array of models who are considered more than before. Models with freckles, as well as Chinese models are gracing our runways… it’s an exciting time.”
Nontando Mposo, Cape Argus