Cape Town – Chu Suwannapha is a well-known face at local fashion weeks.
His quirky dress code and penchant for colourful and clashing prints has earned him the title Prince of Prints.
Now, with more than 20 years of experience in the fashion industry, Suwannapha is set to debut his own fashion label, Chulaap, at the SA Menswear Week on February 7.
“I have been building my own brand for the past 12 years. I am more than ready for this,” says Suwannapha, a fashion director for YOU, Huisgenoot and Drum magazines.
“People keep asking me where can they can get what I’m wearing. They say that I am cool and I have swag… they want to dress like me, and now they can,” he says.
We meet Suwannapha at his workplace. His outfit doesn’t disappoint , it’s a combination of bold, printed patterns, complete with leopard shoes and eccentric socks.
“I love clashing prints. Most of the time I am wearing the same clothes, but it’s how I mix it up by layering my pieces together. My outfits look different, but actually it’s the same clothes,” he says.
“I believe that prints are very special, but you have to know how to wear them. You have to make it more interesting. Also, I am not a dapper person, I don’t dress in suits or tight-fitting clothes. I have fun with clothes,” Suwannapha says.
He tells us this will be his second go at owning a fashion label. He launched his first label, Churlarp, his full first name, in his home country, Thailand, when he was just 22.
“That time I did unisex Polo T-shirts with my signature on the shoulder. It was like I was selling food. I would put in new stock every morning at 10 and by the afternoon customers cleaned out the whole store.
“It was amazing. I would go to the club or to the shopping malls and there would be all these young kids wearing my top with my signature on the shoulder. They were so proud of wearing my brand,” he says.
“I was very young then and didn’t have any knowledge of running a business… I just wanted to be a designer. I sold my label, took all the money and went to live in Paris for 10 years.
“My dream was to be a fashion designer and I wanted to be in Paris for that,” Suwannapha says. “It was tough at first because I spoke broken English and didn’t speak any French. I learnt French by going to French movies with English subtitles and watching English movies with French subtitles… that is how I learnt English.”
The first few months living in one of the world’s fashion capitals was not easy, but Suwannapha made it possible by working at a restaurant and as a stylist to pay the bills. In Paris he also sold his mini collection, consisting of menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing.
Suwannapha’s first break came when he was accepted to study at the French private school of fashion, Esmod Paris.
“They put me into third year straight away. I was very lucky because I didn’t have a design portfolio; my friends had to help me put together one,” he says.
“I followed their directions. My drawings were not the most beautiful. It was also tough with my broken English, but I made it work,” he says.
“The main reason I went to Paris was that I wanted to earn and gain more experience about fashion. I believe that if you are a good designer, you have to have a feel for it. Be able to understand patterns, the curve, the line and the proportions of a design.”
After a decade in Paris it was time for Suwannapha to move on, and Africa was next. “Although Paris was amazing, I didn’t have permanent residence and there were so many French designers who were looking for jobs. It was not easy to get permanent employment there.
“Africa has always been one of my dreams. When I got to Cape Town I wanted to have my label ready, but I didn’t have the money or back-up for it,” he says.
Bringing international industry knowledge to the South African fashion scene, Suwannapha worked as a stylist in a number of fashion campaigns and catalogues for brands such as Woolworths and Levi’s.
Next month he will showcase his range on the last day of the inaugural SA Menswear Week in Cape Town. The three-day event takes place from February 5 at a venue to be confirmed.
“Chulaap is all about celebrating Africa. I am not trying to be another European designer. I am celebrating Africa and its ethnic prints… there is something special about them,” says Suwannapha.
“The collection is inspired by SA street style. It’s cool, fresh and modern. It’s quite playful and quirky, there is nothing serious about it. It’s East-meets-South with a Japanese twist,” he says.
“The street-style culture in SA is a lot about freedom and creativity. The street-style photographers are doing amazing things with colour and texture, producing work that is quirky and interesting. You can’t get this street style anywhere (else) in the world. You can’t get it in Japan, Milan or even Paris,” he says.
“The Johannesburg street style is more bold and more about celebrating their cultures. It’s saying this is who I am and this is what I want. They are very original and unique.”
Awarded the title of the 2014 SA Style Awards’ Most Innovative Style, Suwannapha makes most of his clothes himself.
He wanted to create handcrafted prints for his debut collection, but with just under a month to put 20 looks together, including about 80 pieces, there was not enough time.
“I call my collection unisex because some women can wear it. Women wearing my clothes are going to be quite sexy. Ladies wearing mens’ shirts and jackets is quite cool and sexy. I am very excited with this collection, even if it’s done at such short notice. For me it’s about commitment. I want to show to my followers and my supporters that anything is possible.
“You can’t just sit back, you have to start at some point. I am giving my time to this because I have to grow in this industry,” says Suwannapha.
For his debut collection he is collaborating with designers Simon and Mary, as well as popular Joburg-based male sock brand Skinny Sbu Socks.
“I want to do more collaborations with SA designers, artists and musicians. For me it’s not only about me, but about supporting other creatives and artists,” says Suwannapha.
“SA Menswear Week is going to be big and very exciting for those people who love menswear, including the ladies.
“It’s going to bring something fresh to the fashion week ambience and a new dimension to the African fashion industry. I am very excited to see what the younger designers will come up with,” he adds.
Cape Argus