RESTAURANT REVIEW: Auralia’s

Published Nov 24, 2015

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It is always good to see a restaurant in a smart hotel in one of the casino complexes being given a makeover from top to toe, including overhauling the menus.

In recent months, I was lucky enough to test the freshly designed Aurelia’s at the Peermont D’Oreale Grande at Emperors Palace, once at a birthday supper and again at the official launch.

One doesn’t often have a second bite at one restaurant, but it’s always good to confirm the good and the bad – of which, I have to admit, there wasn’t much.

The great thing about the space is that it is to the side of Emperors so doesn’t feel as if it is part of the gambling palace. The restaurant also faces the hotel’s swimming pool and it has used the outside space, including setting up five new gazebos, to expand the dining room outside in good weather.

From beginning to end on both nights, the service was impressive. Everyone was charming, very helpful and on their toes to keep diners happy without being too intrusive.

The birthday dinner was a set menu and ran smoothly and it was a pre-run for the restaurant because it took place just before its relaunch.

But the launch was the big test. Although we were invited, and everyone was aware this was the big night, the volumes were large and the kitchen would have to get things right with so many orders from the packed dining room.

The snacks and starters were cleverly produced before the time, almost in canapé form. They included salmon consommé shots, a salad caprese spoon, oak-smoked venison tartare slates, escargot au riesling bruschetta and, for the fresh oyster brigade, some beauties from Langebaan.

 

On arrival at the table, we were presented with a menu that had two small plate options (table starters), Saldanha Bay clams with pea risotto or an ostrich bobotie ravioli, both equally exciting, with a range of tastes and textures.

This was followed by a big plate menu that was truly testing. For those of us who cannot see past anything that says crayfish, it was difficult because they had two options: classic Crayfish Thermidor or a Bo-Kaap-spiced Cape crayfish tail that I simply couldn’t resist and which delivered on all the promise with its lemon butter, shrimp potato gnocchi, Malay curry sauce, sweet basil pesto and Parmesan foam. It was quite delicious and, although there were many mouthwatering options, this one slayed me.

My partner, a lamb expert, decided to test the kitchen by selecting one of the two lamb dishes on offer. She opted for the impala and Karoo lamb deuce, with impala shank in pastry, lamb rack, pistachio, parsnip thyme custard, baby root vegetables, horseradish mash, and red wine lamb mint jus. She was impressed with the combination and the execution.

The desserts are served bite-size on an individual island buffet and range from chocolate torte (which we had at the birthday bash and which was quite delicious) to cheesecake and lemon meringue, both of which we tried on the night and both of which were quite tired and almost tasteless. I will forgive them, however, because of the night and all its pressures.

But, I have to admit, I was impressed. You can pretty much model your meal any way you like.

The dining room is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and they have a children’s menu. Larger than before, the restaurant now comfortably seats 120 people inside, between 40 and 70 outside and boasts two new upmarket private dining facilities. The team include Chef de Cuisine Justin Jonah and restaurant manager Quinton Russell.

The prices range from R68 to R80 for starters and from about R150 for mains, with the spectacular Bo-Kaap Crayfish a feast at R295. The menu has a strong South African slant, but is cleverly put together with a selection to steal any heart.

AURELIA’S AT EMPERORS PALACE

Telephon e:011 928 1727/1908

Email: [email protected] or [email protected].

See www.emperorspalace.com

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