RESTAURANT REVIEW: Pintxada

Published Nov 13, 2015

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It may have been a long time coming, but Little Havana’s newest cousin opened last week and already has the Umhlanga strip in something of a frenzy.

Pintxada – it’s pronounced pinchada – is the latest tapas bar and grill from Martin Lombard and his team. It’s an inviting and friendly space.

Pintxo is the basque region’s take on tapas. It comes from the word meaning “to pierce”, originally named because the tasty bar snacks were pierced to a piece of flat bread with cocktail sticks … but more about them later.

I have Dot on my arm. She’s already been … twice. It doesn’t take her long to sniff out the best new spots. But naturally, she can’t resist another outing.

It’s a fun setting, designed to spill into the square. It’s convivial brasserie style outside and more intimate inside. There’s a bar that runs all the way down one side and that, too, spills on to the pavement.

The decor is chic and stylish. With touches of copper, zany tiles, and beautiful black and orange crockery. Dot believes she could be in Paris, or Berlin or Madrid. But I’m happy with good ol’ Umhlanga.

As you enter, the rotisserie chickens are spinning in a giant oven, the vegetables roasting below – all those lovely juices coating them. The proprietor admits there’s some duck fat thrown in for good measure.

Dot, I don’t care what you’re having, but I’m having that.

There’s a good range of craft beer on tap. “Of course, you know what craft stands for,” Dot confides. “Can’t remember a f****** thing.” Ja, well, no fine

And there’s a good range of wine by the glass. Her friends were raving about the frozen margueritas on their last visit. (And I gather, from the waitress, it was quite a visit. She certainly remembered it).

The menu is simple – it changes regularly – possibly daily, but takes in a range of tasty tapas on a simple, printed menu. The spicy prawns and pork belly were coming out as we arrived.

Dot had been there and approved the T-shirt. And that was also the entrecôte off the list – cooked in the charcoal oven – to perfection, she insists.

We started with the mildly curried prawn samoosas, served with a cool cucumber yoghurt dipping sauce. These were lovely, tasty and crisp little parcels.

I fancied the courgette risotto which was a creamy and delicate treat, generously topped with Parmesan. Chef insisted we try his mussel cappuccino served in an espresso cup. That got Dot mooing gently. Full marks.

The grilled chouriço served with a creamy mustard sauce and a rich potato bake, was exceptional. We duelled with cocktail sticks over the last piece, while I really enjoyed the Spanish meatballs, served with roasted cocktail onions on a rosti. These were soft, moist and packed a flavour punch.

Next up was another tasty morsel, lamb loin served with roasted pepper and couscous. More thumbs up of approval.

And then the chicken arrived, on top of a bed of roasted root vegetables. Now my late friend Eric always maintained chicken was a boring bird. Well, sorry, my friend, not this one. It was succulent, full of flavour and just fell off the bone. It was served with roasted lemon wedges. I almost ordered another half chicken to take away. This was great cooking.

By this stage we were both way too full to tackle other main like the salmon or lamb. Dot can vouch for them, but I’ll be back.

We rounded everything off with Spanish doughnuts in a chocolate dipping sauce and a first-class espresso. And yes there’s crème brûlée.

So welcome to the new kid on the block. It’s certainly one of the best lunches I’ve had this year.

 

Venue: Pintxada

Address: Granada Square, Chartwell Drive, Umhlanga Rocks

Telephone:082 688 1310

Open: Daily lunch and dinner

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