Putting North Korea on the map

Published Apr 16, 2015

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London - It is a secretive nation that is not known for its open and transparent nature. But French photographer Eric Lafforgue was among the first visitors to be allowed in the North Korean fishing village of Jung Pyong Ri - a model community so remote it is not on any maps.

The rural outpost is part of a project to create home stays for tourists, allowing them a glimpse of life in North Korea, albeit a very sanitised version of reality.

The village is a far cry from the poverty surrounding it, with its air conditioned facilities and houses equipped with three televisions.

Lafforgue admits the conditions of a stay can be somewhat restrictive. However, the journey to the village and views from the house windows reveal traces of the surrounding hardship experienced by locals.

“It’s a good opportunity to show tourists a flattering image of rural life, the fragile pillar of the country’s economy. The beautiful portrayal of rural life provides the North Korean government a flattering image to capitilise on.”

The photographer travelled to the Myongchon county, situated in the North Hamgyong province, wary of what he would discover.

“Only 23 families resided here. Immediately, I fear I’m in a North Korean tourist trap, complete with actors portraying reality.”

Lafforgue stayed with the village chief, in a well-kept house. Although it came with en-suite bathrooms, the bed consisted of a futon on the floor. Each house in the village is identical.

He describes the decor as “kitschy”, with huge plush toys, plastic flowers, large plant pots being watched by the propaganda portraits lining the walls.

And the village is still reeling from a visit 11 years ago by Kim Jong Il, when the community was first unveiled as a model village.

The house the general entered was a two-storey building with the best view of the local sandy beach, and his visit is immortalised by a plaque above the door.

His visit still brings sobs to the homeowner, and she emotionally relayed the encounter: “I did not know General Kim Jong Il would come. It was a great surprise for me. The neighbours were so jealous.We took a picture together, which I will forever treasure,” she said.

Lafforgue was treated to a sumptuous meal of duck for dinner, although he learned that the village members sometimes go hungry during the winter months.

Americans are banned from visiting, but the French photographer asked if any Americans would be welcome.

The smart response was: “Americans are our enemies, but I would welcome them in the name of North Korean hospitality.”

When asked about cellphones, his question was met with confusion, and electricity only runs until 9pm daily.

Villagers require a permit to travel within their country, and they are kept as treasured possessions.

The chief proudly showed a photograph of his son, in a Mickey Mouse frame. He is serving his army conscription, which is mandatory for three to five years for men, and selective for women.

Other children in the village aspire to be soldiers, with one mother telling Lafforgue her sons were destined for the army. “Our goal is to defend our country, and for that, we need soldiers, not only musicians or doctors.”

Lafforgue gathered that the area had received government funding and support to become as developed as it is today.

Despite being impressed by the home stay, and the stunning beaches and landscapes in the fishing village, Lafforgue could not help but notice the poverty of the surroundings creeping in when they thought he wasn’t looking.

“The guides wanted to hide from me the reality of this life, but from my bedroom window, I can see emaciated oxen with carts full of wood and women carrying heavy loads. I also see people picking grass to eat for lunch.”

The photographer has been banned for his work depicting the realities of life in North Korea, and had to smuggle photographs out of the country on memory cards, after his camera was confiscated.

Daily Mail

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