East London - Sometimes journeys do not unfold as expected, leaving a traveller in a bind, trying to find overnight accommodation at the last minute.
As such problems usually present themselves later in the day, when one is not expecting to have to stop, let us look at an area that can be fraught with challenges – the R56 between Middelburg in the Eastern Cape and Matatiele in KwaZulu-Natal.
Consider the journey from west to east: Middelburg has plenty of places to stay; so does Steynsburg; Molteno has a couple of options; Dordrecht offers one or two B&Bs; Ingwe has chalets on a dam. Elliot has delightful surroundings, but its accommodation outlets nearly always seem to be filled by businessmen and contractors working on the roads.
That leaves Ugie and Maclear. The last town before crossing the border into KZN, Mount Fletcher, seems devoid of B&Bs.
Trapped, as mist and dark fell, I checked into Die Kiepersol, in Ugie. The self-catering rooms are small, but comfortable. There is a charming garden with friendly dogs and cats. The owner, a Mrs Venter, offers breakfast for those who need it .
Locals recommend Declan’s Guest House in Maclear. So I went to see. Owner Declan Sparks, who has been in the town for 15 years, showed me around the various options. There are 20 rooms in different houses and everyone has breakfast in the main house.
Four large self-catering cottages, with a view of the town, have DStv. And there are special offers on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights.
Declan said most guests choose to have dinner or lunch at the Butchers Diner in a converted house in the town. They are also happy to deliver meals to order for those who don’t feel like going out.
Another option for those in the self-catering cottages is pre-cooked frozen meals. According to Declan, there is a varied selection.
Those who want to spend more time in the area will find plenty to choose from. It is a prime trout fishing destination and there are spectacular San paintings in caves with some farms offering tours.
Both Ugie and Maclear offer stupendous hiking and there are wonderful day drives over Naude’s Nek pass and to Rhodes. Another drive is between Ugie and Umtata.
An incredible section of tarred road is down a mountain pass through and above Langeni Forest featuring towering indigenous trees and plantations with rocky outcrops.
The road itself is an engineering marvel – built in some places on viaducts and typical of those found in the Alps.
Die Kiepersol: 083 284 0278.
Declan’s Place: 045 932 1071; 083 452 6747. - Sunday Tribune