Kruger Park: It's bigger than Israel!

Published Sep 30, 2008

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The central region

Encompassing 30 percent of the surface area, nearly half the park's lion population hang out here as well as leopard, hyena and cheetah, thanks to the quantity of sweet grasses and browsing trees that support large numbers of antelope, giraffe, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest.

The far north region

Here you'll find major areas of sand formed by river flood plains and riverine forests as part of the region lies in a rain shadow. A picnic site along the banks of the Luvuvhu River provides hours of splendid bird viewing.

The knocking sand frog lives here, as do the the nocturnal bushpig and the rare Sharpe's grysbok. There are samango monkeys, packs of wild dog, and the major water pans across the Wambiya sandveld are home to tropical fish, such as the rainbow killifish, not found anywhere else in the country. The sandstone hills, just west of Punda Maria, is the only place you can see the Natal red hare and yellow-spotted rock dassie, or hyrax.

The northern region

North of the Orange River is a semi-arid region covering 7 000km2 that sees very little rain. Here shrub mopane thrives in the hot, low-lying valleys, but five rivers provide narrow corridors giving rise to trees such as the nyala, the sycamore fig, the tamboti and the tall apple leaf.

The Letaba and Olifants rivers contain 60 percent of the park's hippo population. There are bushpig in the undergrowth of the Luvuvhu River and on most of the river banks you can see elephant, buffalo, waterbuck, bushbuck, impala and kudu concentrated near a water supply.

The southern region

Bounded by the Crocodile River in the south and Sabie River in the north, the southern region also enjoys the jagged ridge of the Lebombo Mountains along the border with Mozambique, and the highest point in the park, Khandzalive, in the southwestern corner - almost in counterpoint to Pretoriuskop that lies in the west of the southern region.

The valleys are home to the Cape chestnut, coral tree and lavender fever-berry. White rhino occur here, particularly around Pretoriuskop, Mbyamiti River and south of lower Sabie. Around Pretoriuskop, known for its profusion of trees, is Ship Mountain, its hull-shape the site of an old wagon trail that crosses a stream marking the birthplace of Jock of the Bushveld. The combretum woodlands, also part of this region, attract kudu, impala, giraffe, buffalo, zebra, white rhino and elephant, while the scarcity of lion in this part of the park, makes way for the cheetah and wild dog.

Bush Walks

A bush walk is a great way to track game on foot, but also one of the most incredible ways to learn about the fragility of the ecosystems of the Kruger and to see the smaller animals and insects that tend to be ignored on the game drives. Take your own snacks and sunscreen as most of the camps in the Kruger do morning and afternoon walks.

Wilderness trails

Some wilderness trails in the Kruger are virtually untouched by humans, with names like Metsi-Metsi, Napi, Massingir and the Sweni Wilderness.

Most of these trails are two days with three overnights in rustic huts with ablution in reed-walled showers and flush toilets, but they're always in such demand that they're booked out way in advance. Here you need to be fairly fit as you'll average 20km a day, although this is at a leisurely pace.

The Lebombo overland trail

This is a five-day "wilderness experience on wheels" takes you from Crocodile Bridge to Pafuri, and deserves a mention here. It's an eco trail that takes you along the eastern boundary along the Lebombo hills (hence the name) from the extreme south to the farthest northern edge.

A maximum of five vehicles, with four people in each undertakes the trail that covers 500km.

The self-drive eco trail crosses rivers and encompasses some of the most beautiful scenery in the park. You'll overnight at Lower Sabie, Olifants and Shingwedzi restcamps. Professional guides will lead the trail and explain the terrain, rated as the best in southern Africa purely because of the rich diversity of fauna and flora en route.

Where to stay in the Kruger National Park

There are a large number of rest camps, bushveld camps, lodges and even overnight hides, all run by South African National Parks Board.

Private operators have established lodges that offer luxury, guided game drives, and the freedom to move into the greater park area if desired.

These private game lodges offer a more intimate and exclusive experience of the vast Kruger.

The private game reserves

Flanking the western boundary of Kruger Park are several private game reserves. Together they form the heart of South Africa's big game country with the free movement of animals between the private reserves and the Kruger National Park.

The Sabi Sands reserve is home to Londolozi, Singita and Mala Mala; Timbavati and Claserie.

SANParks accommodation

- Restcamps: Most have electricity, a shop, communal kitchen facilities, laundromats, restaurants, public telephones and petrol stations. Info centres are located at Letaba, Skukuza and Berg-en-dal.

- Berg-en-Dal: Just west of the Malelane gate overlooking the Matjulu Spruit, Berg-en-Dal is bordered by a dam and dry riverbeds. Lovely trees offer shade to the pretty restcamp, which comprises bungalows, family cottages and guest houses.

- Crocodile Bridge: Right up against the Mozambique border and Maputo, Crocodile Bridge is an area famous for lions and rhinos. Crocodile Bridge lies on the northern bank of the Crocodile River, in the south-eastern corner of the Kruger. The accommodation is in basic bungalows and safari tents.

- Letaba: Lying in the bend of the Letaba River, the heavily shaded restcamp is great for bird-watching and elephants. It's close to the Phalaborwa Gate and includes a camping area, guest houses, cottages and bungalows.

- Lower Sabie: Right on the banks of the Sabie River, most of the game comes to you in this family-oriented camp only 35km from Crocodile Bridge. There are large lawns, huge trees, and a swimming pool. You can stay in a range of campsites, huts, bungalows, guest cottages, guest houses, and safari tents.

- Mopani: On the banks of the Pioneer Dam, this little restcamp lies in amongst koppies and Mopani trees. Thatched accommodation, with stone walls, is in bungalows, cottages, guest cottages and a guest house.

- Olifants: Olifants sits on top of a hill, set on rocky cliffs, that provides incredible views over the Olifants River. There are two distinct types of vegetation in this area - mopane shrub and rolling grass plains - and one is likely to spot elephant, zebra, impala, buffalo, giraffe and kudu as a result. Accommodation is in guest houses, cottages and bungalows.

- Orpen: On the western boundary of the central zone of the Kruger National Park, Orpen is a tranquil camp with scattered trees and wide-open plains that attract a large quantity of browsers. The waterhole, just outside the camp, provides sightings of lion, blue wildebeest, vultures and plovers, and accommodation is in cottages and huts.

- Pretoriuskop: This camp lies in a hilly area dominated by granite outcrops just 9km from the Numbi Gate in the south-west. Rare species like sable and rhino are seen here, as well as impala, zebra, giraffe and wildebeest. Accommodation is in guest houses, cottages, bungalows and huts.

- Punda Maria: One of two camps north of the Tropic of Capricorn, Punda Maria lies on a ridge in the northernmost reaches of the Sandveld, 8km from the Punda Maria gate. Some of the best bird-watching is to be found here and it's a good place to spot nyala. There are seven luxury tents, a pool, bungalows and cottages.

- Satara: Regarded as the best camp for viewing the big cats, Satara lies just 47km east of the Orpen gate in the knobthorn veld, which offers some of the best grazing in the Park, and the high number of watering places in the area translates into frequent sightings of antelope, zebra, giraffe and buffalo. Accommodation is in guesthouses, cottages and bungalows.

- Shingwedzi: On the banks of the Shingwedzi River this rest camp is prime elephant spotting country, filled with trees, bungalows and shady verandas. North of the camp is a riverine forest. Accommodation is in huts, a cottage and guesthouses.

- Skukusa: Skukusa lies right in Big Five territory on the banks of the Sabie River. Accommodation ranges from safari tents and bungalows to luxury bungalows, guest cottages and guesthouses.

- Tsendze: With the emphasis on "touch the earth lightly" - there is no electricity. Warm water is from gas geysers and lighting is solar-powered. It has a three-star grading and comes with open-air showers. The camp lies in the shade of leadwood, mopane and apple-leaf trees.

Satellite restcamps

- Balule private camp: Ideal for campers, Balule lies on the southern bank of the Olifants River, perfect for those who seek solitude.

- Malelane private camp: Just 3km from the Malelane Gate, this satellite camp is one of the smallest in the Park, accommodating just 19 people, and lies on the banks of the Crocodile River. Accommodation is camping or little huts.

- Maroela private camp: Overlooking the Timbavati River bed, Maroela Camp is an ideal place to spot leopard. It's about 4km from Orpen and Eastgate airport. The nearby Rabelais dam is also a good place to spot game.

- Tamboti tent camp: Self-catering safari tents are mounted on stilts overlooking the dry Timbavati River bed. The camp lies in a flat veld area and shares communal bathrooms, kitchen and food areas.

Bush Lodges

- Boulders: An exclusive camp, accommodating up to 12 people, Boulders is 50km north of Letaba. Raised thatched cottages allow the safe viewing of game. Solar panels provide energy for ceiling fans.

- Roodewal: Just 40km from Olifants restcamp en route to Timbavati, Roodewal accommodates up to 19 people in four cottages close to the Timbavati River, with a lookout platform in a huge nyala tree. Accommodation is in huts and a family cottage. Solar energy provides lighting.

Bushveld Camps

- Bateleur: Set on the banks of the Mashokwe Spruit in the northern savannah, Bateleur is the oldest and the smallest camp. A game-viewing hide overlooks the waterhole, including a floodlight for night viewing. Here you can spot hippo and crocodile. Accommodation is in guest cottages.

- Biyamiti: On the banks of the Mbyamiti River, this intimate camp lies in a wooded clearing, close to the old ox-wagon trade route. This is a good camp from which to spot the Big Five and black rhino, as well as wild dog and cheetah. Accommodation is in little cottages.

- Shimuwini: Shimuwini lies on the upper end of the Shimuwini dam on the Letaba River. The Letaba River is lined with big trees that include the baobab, and the dam provides hours of bird and game watching. Accommodation is in 15 family cottages.

- Sirheni: The northernmost camp, Sirheni lies on the dam of the same name in mopane veld. Accommodation is in 15 cottages.

- Talamati: On the N'waswitsontso River, Talamati lies in a large open valley about 31km from Orpen Gate with two hides overlooking a waterhole. Accommodation is in 15 family cottages.

Overnight Hides

- Sable: Just 10km from the Phalaborwa Gate, this is a unique form of accommodation. This bird hide by day transforms into overnight dwelling. The hide looks over the Sable Dam.

- Shipandani: Overnighting in a bird hide-away is a unique way of being close to elephant, buffalo and other creatures of the night that include nightjars and cicada. On the banks of the Tsedze River, Shipandani is close to the Mopani restcamp and sunset is a particularly gratifying experience.

This is the richly diverse land of the Big Five, the Little Five (buffalo weaver, elephant shrew, leopard tortoise, ant lion and rhino beetle), the birding Big Six (ground hornbill, kori bustard, lappet-faced vulture, martial eagle, Pel's fishing owl and saddle-bill stork) and more species of mammal than any other African game reserve.

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