Durban - Philip Sithole, head of Durban’s tourism certainly is certainly a happy man after the CNN endorsement.
“They are right,” he says. “We’ve got a special charm. We have special experiences, you won’t find anywhere else and it’s got a lot to do with our lifestyle and mix of cultures.”
The good thing about all this positive talk is that people are visiting our shores more than they ever did – much of it thanks to the CNN travel website and a recent upsurge in nice comments about our city.
But why stop there? CNN mentioned a few of Durban’s iconic tourism hot spots including Moses Mabhida Stadium, the beachfront, bunny chows, real Indian curry, uShaka Marine World and our art deco buildings.
We all know, well those who live here do, that there is a lot more to Durban and its surrounding environs than the iconic stuff highlighted by CNN. Okay, Gounden’s Bunnies in Umbilo Road are pretty hard to beat and the sand sculptures on the beach are world class.
So what else? We’ve picked what we think are 10 destination venues and experiences in and around Durban, that we believe would leave any tourist wanting to come back for more.
Mitchell Park
On a sunny day this century old green lung has an old-world charm that can’t be beat. Visitors tend to stop at the trendy Florida Road forgetting the jewel at the top. Locals might not even know this but Mitchell Park was first established as an ostrich farm by Sir Charles Bullen Hugh Mitchell (I thought it was two people but it’s one). Sir Charles soon scrapped the ostrich idea and decided a zoo would be better. Admiral, the tortoise that came to the park in 1915 and is well over 100 years old, is definitely worth a visit together with a range of exotic birds, wallabies, small antelope, crocodiles, raccoons, and a variety of monkey species. You might even see the shy bush babies if you look carefully enough. The leafy and peaceful tea spot is where you will meet Gordon – “don’t worry about my second name everyone knows me just as Gordon” – who will regale you between delivering trays of scones and tea, with stories of the big elephant that lived in the park and used to take children for rides.
Details: Open daily 8am to 4pm.
Admission: R8 for adults, R5 for children, R2 for pensioners.
Facilities: Children’s playground, braai areas, picnic lawns, Mini Zoo, Blue Zoo Restaurant and Alley’s Snacks. For more info Contact Mitchell Park on 031 303 2275.
Ammazulu Palace
Just 30 minutes from the centre of Durban is so intriguing, so incredibly beautiful and bizarre that it takes your breath away. This is where ancient Egypt, Gaudi, Greece, Old Persia, and an African fantasy world all meet in wondrous eccentricity. The magic starts as you enter the great front door. Before you are lofty, two-storey high columns, each one a work of art. Art connoisseur, Margaret Roxton, who knows the property backwards, is used to the wow factor.
“You see visitors half in shock, half disbelieving. It takes a bit of time to absorb it all,” she says.
The private museum was begun in 1998 and built of local sandstone. From its Gaudi-like balconies you can see the nearby Krantzkloof Nature Reserve. Recycled materials have been used wherever possible as part of the artworks, including doors “scrounged” from old buildings in Cape Town, unused drainpipes, even upside down pots and pans
Details: For those who would like to explore the palace in detail, AmmaZulu Palace has a small number of suites where visitors can stay overnight. For more information go to the website www.ammazulupalace.com or email [email protected]
Holocaust Museum and Anne Frank memorial exhibit
It’s not a typical holiday getaway, but for those interested in history it’s an absolute must. Graphically, meticulously and with understated dignity, the museum documents man’s inhumanity to man from the horror of Nazi Germany and the ghettoes of Poland to the brutalities committed in apartheid South Africa, Rwanda, and beyond.
The quietness of the gallery and its carefully compiled history of acts of violations of life and human dignity leave one profoundly moved. The Anne Frank exhibit is of particular interest and documents the young girl’s short life, ending in the notorious Auschwitz death camp. The belief is that by highlighting man’s inhumanity to man, people of all backgrounds can come together for a better world.
Details: You’ll find the Holocaust Centre behind Durban’s Jewish Club, one road back from the Marine Parade corner of KE Masinga and Playfair Roads.
Tel: 031 368 6833 e-mail: [email protected]
Opening times: Sunday to Friday 9am to 4pm. Public Holidays: 9am to 4pm. Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays.
Speciality Markets
Durbanites are addicted to markets. There are new ones springing up all the time, the latest one to catch the imagination and excite the taste buds is Durban’s brand-new Morrison Street fresh produce market, Morning Trade, just around the corner from the ICC.
Part of an inner city renewal programme, it’s the in place to be every Sunday morning for delicious coffee and fresh cream scones. It’s also the place to savour some locally produced delicacies from warm newly baked artisan breads to fresher than fresh local fruit, veg and salady stuff.
Just up the main drag is the famous Essenwood Market that literally has everything that opens and shuts from crafts to beads, paintings to pottery, carpets to curry. If you want a real taste of Durban, that’s the place to go, if you are in town that is, on a Saturday morning.
A more robust market experience is offered at the Victoria Street Market, which was officially opened in 1910, and looks like a Maharajah’s palace. Traditional items are big, including African crafting, fine cut jewellery, fresh produce, brass ornaments, pungent spices and authentic clothing. Victoria Street Market is also a historic landmark.
Details: Morning trade open every Sunday 8am to 2pm. Contact [email protected]
Essenwood – contact [email protected] or call 082 4600625
Victoria – 151, Bertha Mkhize Street – 031 306 4021
Durban Natural History Museum and the famous dodo
Not sure why but people forget that Durban’s museum is probably one of the oldest on the African continent and one of the only places on the planet that has a real dodo – reconstructed from remains found at the last known dodo site in Mauritius. The bird, which has escaped scientific investigation for centuries, is now the subject of interest for scientists around the world. Many thought that the dodo was a creature of mythology, but a trip to the museum will give you the real story and a fascinating insight into its history and tragic demise.
Details: First floor, City Hall. Entrance Anton Lembede Street, Call 031 311 2256.
Iconic eating spots
Gounden’s Restaurant and takeaway, Umbilo: Its clientele ranges from factory workers to billionaires who come from all around Durban and far beyond for Gounden’s legendary bunny chows, served with no frills in a no-frills eatery which is more canteen than restaurant. Service is efficient and friendly and the menu offers full bunny selection and other curries.
Details: 520 Umbilo Road, Durban. Opening and closing times: Monday to Saturday 9am – 6pm, Saturday 9am – 4pm
Call 031 205 5363
Hotel Britannia
Another curry den that attracts locals, tourists, politicians and millionaire businessmen alike. This is an eatery with a long and colourful history which serves delicious Indian food, Durban-style. Revamped not so long ago, Britannia offers dining in comfort and style in their Capsicum restaurant and more casual dining in the Thirsty Horse sports pub with its state-of-the-art big screens. Peri-peri prawn curry and mutton bunny chows are popular choices, but there are many other options for curry lovers. Also a takeaway.
Details: 1299 Umgeni Road, Durban. Call 031 303 2266 / 031 303 2417
Max’s Lifestyle
Max’s Lifestyle boasts they are the best restaurant in Umlazi. You decide. But if you decide to go – and you should – know that they serve shisanyama (traditional Zulu braai) in a laid-back atmosphere, along with other local foods. One of the few venues in the area catering to locals and tourists alike, they are also known for their Sunday Sessions where top DJs entertain. For those wanting a relaxed, less noisy environment, try their VIP Lounge .
Tel: 031 906 1393
Cool Runnings
Cool Runnings, an ode to all things reggae, has been around since 1995. Guests will find a laid-back vibe with designer cocktails and the sweet sound of Jamaican music. The venue hosts live entertainment and boasts a large inside and outdoor area. New and exciting news is that Nadia Adams of Greedy Buddha fame has taken over the food side for Sunday lunches as from November 2. She says you can expect funky street food with a fine dining ethos. Booking essential to 083 252 8885 .
Details: 49 Milne Street
Hours: 11.30am – 2.30pm and 6pm – 9pm
Vetch’s Pier
Visitors will probably never have heard of it, being right at the end of the beachfront, a stone’s throw from the harbour entrance but it is where old Durban tries to stay alive, amid calls for modernisation, which it has so far resisted. Vetch’s Pier is in fact an artificial reef that was created some 80 years ago. Today it is teeming with corals and fish, plenty of eels and scorpion fish. When the weather is good it is a place where kids can swim without being knocked over by huge waves, where at the weekends dogs come down to play and pleasure craft can moor at leisure without being tossed back and forth by choppy water. It’s all simple beach fun, but peaceful and mellow, with the great ships passing so close you can see the faces of people on the decks, probably wishing they could swop places.
Details: Good idea. Take the People Bus, very comfortable and affordable. Runs along the beachfront in a circular route. You can catch it anywhere along the Golden Mile and it will drop you at Vetch’s and take you back. Durban’s best-kept secret!
Mountain bike trails
Mountain bike trails are one of Durban’s most popular “green corridor” activities. In the last few years the biker fraternity have gone all out to establish mountain bike trail networks between Pietermaritzburg and the river estuary at Blue Lagoon. If you are a wobbly rider like me you probably should leave it well alone, but I’m told that even with a little experience there are suitable trails and the chance to see some incredible unspoiled scenery.
Those who like things more organised can go on one of the guided mountain trail tours. On these trails all equipment and safety helmets are provided and there’s also a picnic lunch for when you get back from a morning ride. You can even get in some canoeing or there’s hiking for the birders.
Details: The Durban Mountain Bike Club at www.dmbc.org.za has every bit of info you need, whether it’s about trails, hiring bikes or just general issues about biking. On holiday with limited time, then contact www.2ride.co.za/ – 031 312 2559 or 082 773 6870.
Umlazi tourism
A few years ago when politics was as fiery as the winter sun Umlazi wasn’t the place to go but that’s all changed. Today visitors can board special tour buses at the North Beach Tourism Office, to take a closer look at what Umlazi has to offer, culturally, historically and just for pleasure and leisure. For the record Umlazi is home to over 800 000 people, the second biggest township in South Africa, Soweto being the biggest. Its name originates from King Shaka, who tasted the water when passing through and said that it tasted bitter. He referred to the Zulu word “umlaza” which means sour milk and hence the name Umlazi.
Among the stopping-off places are How Long Park, founded by Michael Fana Mlangeni, who throughout the years maintained and improved the park without financial assistance. In 1998 the municipality employed Mlangeni as the park caretaker and when he reached retirement age he used his pension to improve the park and continues to watch over it. Next stop is the home of anti-apartheid hero lawyers Griffiths Mxenge and his wife Victoria, who lost their lives during the struggle. No visit to Umlazi is complete without going to Max’s Lifestyle where tourists will love traditional meals featuring meat cooked on a braai with traditional side dishes
Details: Umlazi Township Tourism, 031 907 0995 – [email protected]
Hindu Temple at Chatsworth
The Hare Krishna Temple in Chatsworth, capped with three large white and gold domes, is also known as the Sri Radhanath Temple of Understanding and is said to be the largest Hare Krishna temple in Africa. Built in the shape of a lotus, it is really something to take your breath away.
Beautiful, impressive architecture, magnificent gardens make it a haven for those seeking peace and quiet. Marble tiles, brass ornaments, crystal chandeliers, imported Chinese lanterns and gold-tinted windows all add to the magic. It’s got all the right ingredients for a fascinating day out, guided tours of the ornate marble temple room and inner sanctuary and an excellent vegetarian restaurant, which offers a variety of Indian vegetarian meals and fresh fruit juices.
A warm touch is that the restaurant also serves more than one thousand meals to the poor and destitute of the city every day.
Details: Open daily: 10am to 8.30pm.
Address: 50 Bhaktivedanta Swami Circle, Unit 5 Chatsworth.
Tel: 031 403 3328.
Sunday Tribune