Cultural journey into Mkhuze

Published Oct 20, 2014

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Durban - Ghost Mountain Inn is a name evocative of dark winding roads, looming trees and flickering lights. But nothing could be further from the truth. This inn is an absolute gem in the middle of the very ordinary northern Zululand town of Mkhuze.

The welcome from the management team, led by general manager Sean Lubbe (formerly of Butcher Boys, Tala and Billy the Bums) is enthusiastic, warm and generous. It leaves guests in no doubt they are welcome. Everyone on the team, including owners Peter, Susan and Craig Rutherfoord, pulls together to make it work.

On our visit, Sean played every role from general manager to chef and wedding planner, and Susan was spotted working with the gardening team cleaning flower beds and trimming undergrowth. It’s a recipe for a successful venture and a happy atmosphere.

Our visit was as a stopover on a longer trip north, but this is no reflection of Ghost Mountain. So on the return trip we checked in for another two nights and really benefited from its services.

Without even leaving the inn, there are possibilities for visitors to chill out at the spa managed by Nompilo Nxumalo, who is trained in all the top treatment ranges. She specialises in Terres d’Afriques and Dermalogica and is also a qualified reflexology and Ayurvedic practitioner. There is also a small but well-equipped gym and steam room.

The curio shop is well stocked and, for those who cannot bear to be parted from their gadgets, there is complimentary WiFi. Outdoors there’s a pool, an expansive garden full of birds, and a short walk along the jetty leads to a gazebo on a large dam at the foot of Ghost Mountain.

The mountain, which looks a little like a woman sleeping on her back, has for many years been a sacred burial ground for the Mandlakazi clan. At the battle of Tshaneni, the clan was defeated by Zulu Chief Dinizulu and driven into Mozambique. However, since then, under cover of dark, the Mandlakazi return to bury their dead. The flickering lights and burial chanting have given rise to the legend of the ghost.

For the more energetic guests the offerings are extensive, lead by qualified skipper and game guide, Jean Toucher. Cruises on Lake Jozini include tiger fishing, plenty of game on the shores and, during the summer months, elephants can be seen swimming. Other attractions are day and night drives to Mkhuze and Hluhluwe game reserves, the Mkhuze Fig Forest Walk, a strenuous hike up Ghost Mountain, and a scenic drive up the Lebombo Mountains.

A visit to the homestead of the Myeni family offers opportunities to learn stick fighting, sample traditional food and experience a reading from a sangoma.

On Sunday night we were treated to a display by a troupe of traditional dancers who are supported by the inn as part of its contribution to the community.

The cultural insights, with exciting game sightings, are a highlight for the many international tourists who make the inn a part of their travel itinerary in the province.

The inn has come a long way since Maureen and Roy Rutherfoord decided to open their home to travellers needing a stopover on the long tedious drive through Zululand. From the hospitable home it became the “local” for the Mkhuze community, and then took the brave step of totally reinventing itself into the inn it is today.

It offers 50 well-appointed guest rooms including a specially designed room for the disabled. Most of the rooms include a small garden patio.

Ghost Mountain Inn is a three-hour drive from Durban and worth every minute of it. But do yourself a favour, stay at least three nights.

l Ghost Mountain Inn is represented by African Insignia Hotels. Call 035 573 1025/ 082 569 0596 or visit: www.ghostmountaininn.co.za.

Phillida Ellis, Sunday Tribune

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