Cape Town - There’s romance in the notion of complete isolation, sparkling night skies, landscapes that go on for ever and a breathtaking resort where you may lay your head at night.
There’s a gem out in the wilderness, among the rocks, with the Cederberg mountains watching over you. It’s the Kagga Kamma Private Game Reserve, a place the Bushmen once called home in the Karoo.
The drive there was uncertain, filled with gushing waterfalls, sugar-coated mountains, fruit trees and the obligatory dirt road. It was escapism at its best; about an hour away from civilisation, and out of range of cellphones.
Sandstone – Mother Nature’s own red modelling clay – revealed one dramatic sculpture after the next. They’re haunting at first and then altogether awe-inspiring.
“Nothing” is so often an empty word, but to say there is nothing in this part of our beautiful country would be both a compliment and curse. Nothing ever looked so beautiful. To the urban eye there is enough space to build a hundred more presidential abodes, but to the nature lover in me it was paradise.
We humans haven’t slept in caves for a long time so the opportunity to live out some prehistoric fantasy was not to be missed. I’m pretty sure our ancestors wouldn’t have approved of the fake material or the air-conditioning, but the aesthetics were pleasing.
A shower and a double bed are about all you’ll get here, but there is no need for anything else – certainly not a TV. You get enough electricity to keep you comfortable, but come 11pm your world changes. You see, it’s lights out until 6.30am in the morning here at Kagga Kamma. It’s a way to save electricity and to allow the generators some time out.
The truth is that this is probably the most beautiful time of the day.
You’re out in the wilderness, with no cellphone and no electricity. How crazy do you think that will drive a city slicker like me? Did I mention that there is a leopard on the property and other creatures like baboons, antelope and snakes. Yes, snakes.
Strangely, though, a calm washes over you as you surrender to the night. What’s the worst that could happen? Leopards don’t like people, right?
You could choose the hut option and forget the cave room. It’s a lot more spacious and is carpeted, which helps in winter.
If you’re braver than a leopard you may want to consider the open outcrop room. It stands alone, tucked against a hill and beneath the stars. You remember the idea of sleeping under the stars when you were a child? This is nothing like that – this is luxury and comfort and first-class service.
This is not some second-rate camp out in the sticks with outside toilets and dodgy cutlery. Kagga Kamma is a four-star luxury resort in the middle of some of the most rugged and beautiful countryside SA has to offer.
When you’re three and half hours away from Cape Town the last thing you expect is a great meal, but without question the meals at Kagga Kamma were exceptional, cooked to perfection and served with a smile. I’d recommend the Karoo lamb stew. It is simply superb.
If you need to work up an appetite and just in case you haven’t had enough dirt road, try the game drive. It’s not so much about the game as it is about the drive. There isn’t a lot to see, but the hope of spotting the leopard fired our excitement. Sundowners at the canyon were our reward, and the drive was worth every minute.
An after-dinner gaze at the stars transformed what was just a romantic interlude into a science lesson as our guide regaled us with tales of the universe, history and religion.
It must be said that being out here in the dark does have its down side. Before you judge me, consider this scene. It’s 5am and the world around you is dead silent. You’re blindfolded by the darkness.
There’s a rustling noise right beside your bed. Something is your room. Your mind wonders what is it, how big is it and how many teeth does it have? It’s time to freak out.
Thankfully technology came to our rescue as we shone an iPad light on the situation. Ironic isn’t it?
It was small. Okay? Small enough to be a snake? Still freaking out.
On nervous inspection it turned out the culprit was small enough to be a rat. Without further incident it escaped. How it got in and out we don’t know. We stayed up the rest of the night pondering.
Later we learnt that our nocturnal visitor was a gemsbok mouse, common in the area and totally harmless.
As if we need reminding that it’s wild out here.
A day trip to the site of 6 000-year-old Bushmen paintings was another education. The site is famous and is the without a doubt the main attraction. If you’re more the type who enjoys a little pampering, try the spa treatment or get a massage, but frankly you can get that anywhere.
What you won’t get anywhere else is a sense of perspective of being at one with nature while appreciating how advanced human society has become.
But there is a time to disconnect from the world around you. To be in the dark, to be out of touch with your reality and to leave yourself at the mercy of a gemsbok mouse. - Saturday Star