A warm, welcoming valley

Tranquillity: At Platbos, three luxuriously appointed and charming log cabins perch on the dam's edge. Picture: myrna Robins

Tranquillity: At Platbos, three luxuriously appointed and charming log cabins perch on the dam's edge. Picture: myrna Robins

Published Aug 26, 2011

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Hiking, biking, angling and chilling are all on the agenda in this verdant valley, with wining and dining as agreeable extras. The fynbos is fantastic, and there is a variety of accommodation for weekenders.

The high mountains of the Limietberge dominate in the west, the gentler slopes of the Badsberge rise in the east, and the Slanghoek valley, just 1.5km wide, stretches for 10km from the bridge over the N1 northward to the R303.

From a foundation of three farms in the late 18th century there are now 15. The sandy soils of the centre and the clay of the mountain slopes are mostly covered with vines, but pear, peach and citrus orchards add to the mix. Beyond, there’s exciting fynbos, mountain leopard and hiking trails that call for sturdy boots and rucksacks to be packed.

While the first inhabitants, ancestors of the San people, lived in these mountains for “tens of thousands of years”, according to an archaeologist, they were followed, more recently, by herders who drove the cattle of the Huguenot settlers in Paarl over the mountain to find grazing. This narrow gorge with its abundant rainfall was the answer, but the herders lived lonely lives in wild, uncharted territory.

Among the first to farm in Slanghoek were the Rousseau family who, in the late 19th century, followed the custom of carving up the land so that every child inherited a portion. The smallest of nine divisions went to a daughter, who married a Du Toit, a name that has become synonomous with the valley. Today this farm, Jason’s Hill, is still a Du Toit property, with current custodian Ivy du Toit making some great wines and running a delightful bistro as she brings up the next generation.

Deep in the valley, her cousin Sakkie runs the popular popular Slanghoek Mountain resort, which caters for campers and caravanners, and offers self-catering chalets and suites in the old farmstead. We joined him in his 4x4 to see the latest addition to his accommodation, bumping past paddocks of Welsh ponies (“they are the best, tough but docile”) alongside the Hoeks river to flat plains – the Platbos – where young shiraz vines struggle in stony soil. As we approached a large dam, baboons scampered away. “These” says Du Toit, “are country baboons who keep well away from people.”

He has built three charming log cabins, luxuriously appointed and waiting to welcome families who value tranquillity above all. From the leopards in the mountains to the indigenous forest with its small yellowwood and abundant protea, this is a place to nourish the soul, to sit and gaze from the deck, cast a line for trout or take long hikes.

For the more gregarious, the home farm is the place, with en suite tents and a tiny stone chapel tucked under old oaks that is popular for small weddings. The simple interior is enhanced by a small, venerable pedal organ, which arrived five years ago, tangible evidence of gratitude from a Du Toit relative, octogenarian Anne van der Merwe.

She was just two when the great drought of 1933 reduced her father’s farm in Fraserburg to dust. He put the cattle and sheep on the train, loaded donkey carts with family and possessions and trekked south to Slanghoek, where the Du Toits let his animals graze until the rains came to the northern Cape. In 2006 Anna saw her granddaughter marry in the chapel, and gave her little organ, a present from her father when she turned 16, to the Du Toits of Slanghoek in gratitude for help when in need.

Visitors will enjoy a convivial pause at Opstal, a wine estate and restaurant that caters for many events in the region. They were setting up for the inaugural Opstal Vars when we were there, a monthly market that blossoms into a sociable affair later, live music taking over from the depleted tables. Attie Louw, seventh generation farmer, reported that this successful initiative is set to become a regular attraction.

We timed our visit to the Slanghoek cellar well, as the staff were filling mugs with rich and delicious biltong and cheese soup. It was the start of the Soetes and Soup weekend when cellars in the four wards of the Breedekloof were presenting their renowned dessert. It was here that cellarmaster Pieter Carstens filled us in on the famous valley legend that, it is thought, originated with those early herders.

It goes like this: a snake with an emerald on its head once slithered around the wetlands of the river, occasionally pausing to drink water, which was the only time it removed the jewel from its head. When treasure-hunters sneaked up to grab the precious stone, the serpent would transform itself into a circle by biting its tail, then cartwheeling after the would-be thief who – if he got away with his trophy – was told to hide it under cow dung, which the snake generally avoided.

A moral in this tale (tail?) would be difficult to find. - Sunday Argus

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