Cape Town - September may not be the best time to visit the Cape because of its unpredictable weather conditions, but I enjoy it. There are fewer visitors, spring flowers are in bloom everywhere and there is always the possibility of sighting whales.
But with a weekend weather forecast of warmer weather with a chance of intermittent light showers, I took no chances and a few hours after landing I was in Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden with rain gear and a sun hat.
Kirstenbosch is one of the world’s greatest botanical horticultural institutions and is located on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. It covers 560ha filled with more than 6 000 species of trees and plants. The original hedge planted by Jan van Riebeeck in 1660 to protect the settlement from encroachment still exists.
I was keen to experience and photograph the new addition to the gardens, a 130m arboreal walkway that opened in May. Kirstenbosch celebrated its centenary last year and this treetop canopy walkway is a fitting new addition to celebrate this milestone.
The walkway is made from curved steel with a timber bridge and is 12m above the woodland floor at its highest point. The walkway winds and dips its way through and over the trees of the Arboretum. I believe it was inspired by a snake skeleton, and informally called “The Boomslang”.
According to the engineers, it is low maintenance and has a minimal impact on the environment and blends in naturally with the surrounds. The walkway takes the visitor from forest floor into and through the trees and opens out above the canopy, giving spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and gardens.
Walking on this structure is like walking on a ship’s deck, since there was a fair degree of movement as I discovered when a group of excited schoolgirls bounced behind me.
I found a bench from where I could admire the view and eat my lunch. I was joined by a few curious birds. It was wonderful being so close to the upper tree branches and birdlife. Information boards were dotted along the route.
The early afternoon saw a change in the weather, storm clouds were brewing over the distant mountains and the drizzle turned into a steady rain. I made a quick dash for the upper slopes to see the king proteas in bloom.
On my way I stumbled across the grave of Prof Harold Pearson, the first Director of Kirstenbosch and the man whose vision led to the establishment of the garden in 1913.
Reluctantly, I left a rain-soaked Kirstenbosch and headed to the National Art Gallery, where I spent an absorbing few hours. They were hosting two very interesting and thought provoking special exhibitions, which are on until next month.
One is an important collection of over 100 rare prints and pottery created by the Evangelical Lutheran Art and Craft Centre in Dundee. These amazing works had been in storage since the 1960s and 1970s.
This centre at Rorke’s Drift was one of the few places where black artists could study during the apartheid period and many of these artists have made a significant contribution to the history of our art.
The second exhibition was entitled Brave New World… 20 Years of Democracy.
This multimedia collection of art works looked into South Africa’s past and present. Some of the central issues raised in Aldous Huxley’s novel Brave New World were expressed visually and provocatively.
Saturday was a glorious sunny day so I decided to take an afternoon tour of the Peninsula. Our route took us along Chapman’s Peak Drive which is, in my opinion, one of the world’s most spectacular coastal scenic routes; part of the road runs from Sea Point along the western edge of the peninsula to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.
This reserve covers 7 700ha of coastal shrub land and is home to 112 bird species and small animals endemic to the area, including the only baboon community to have adapted to a marine diet.
We made a short stop to reach the summit and the old lighthouse, built in 1860. There is a funicular that ferries visitors to the summit, if climbing 121 steps is too daunting. The views from the top are dramatic; a bird’s eye view of the sea, rocks and surrounding land.
Our second stop on the way back was at Boulders Beach located a few kilometres to the south of Simon’s Town. We were here to see the African penguins. They have lived here since 1985. These people-friendly animals have to be checked by monitors from walking into town! While standing on the beach, I spotted the “blow” of a whale out to sea.
Before heading to the airport on Sunday for my afternoon flight home, a friend and I travelled to Kalk Bay for brunch at my favourite restaurant, the Olympia.
The bay takes its name from the lime that was produced in the area by burning shells in special kilns. The town was buzzing with day-trippers and the harbour too was busy, as fishermen offloaded fresh fish to waiting customers. A crowd had gathered to photograph two large lazy seals soaking up the sun on the quay while patiently waiting for scraps.
I left Cape Town feeling energised and renewed. It has deep roots in history, culture and civility.
The region’s flora and fauna are national treasures and in my opinion, it remains the “fairest of Capes”.
Cheryl Simchowitzc; Sunday Tribune