Cape Dutch charm in the city

Published Aug 6, 2015

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Cape Town - City hotels aren’t generally my thing. Modular boxes, no matter how they’re configured and what bells and whistles are added, remain boxes. The Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia, Cape Town, however, is not your average hotel – not by a long shot. This group of Cape Dutch buildings sits on a beautiful, sprawling property with its own vineyard and is the flagship of three hotels in The Collection by Liz McGrath.

I arrived on a glorious winter afternoon, as smiley, happy people were spilling out after the ever-popular Sunday lunch. I quickly checked in and headed on a tour. A tour? Well, yes, as there is quite some real estate beyond the gabled, chimneyed walls. There’s the Gary Player-designed chipping and putting green, the rose garden, then the tennis court, the popular and excellent Fresh Wellness Spa and hair salon next to the main pool (there are two, one heated) above the vineyard, and then through the herb and forest-like section of the gardens and back to the buildings.

The main buildings include a careful restoration of the 18th Century Klaasenbosch wine cellars and the splendid manor house of the Hohenort. There’s also Madiba Villa, a gracious double-storey with a private courtyard and heated splash pool.

The various suites offer different accommodation styles. Some are modern while others are opulent, balconied suites from days past. All are airy and charming with floral accents. Free wi-fi, a fruit platter and a bottle of wine is standard I found when I returned to my suite as the evening chill descended, glad of the underfloor heating.

Photos don’t do it justice. The lounge with its skylights, changes character at night. The bar offers some of the best cocktails you’ll find and dining was a faultless experience. The famed Greenhouse Restaurant was closed for refurbishment, although I wandered in to admire the elegance under glass. The Conservatory, with an ancient oak tree as its centrepiece, wasn’t shabby either. The staff were friendly, efficient but unobtrusive, the food outstanding in presentation and flavours. For guests, it is a relaxed, unhurried affair while chefs under group executive chef, Peter Tempelhoff, and smiling staff make it all happen.

The white mushroom cheesecake with gorgeous crispy sesame encrusted wonton, artichoke, pine nuts and basil seed was a fresh delight for my tastebuds – as was the Kabeljou with tomato, broccoli, crispy calamari, delicious foam and saffron tagliatelle. The ice cream – nougat, cookies and cream, salted caramel – was superb but the highlight was a taste of Vin de Hohenort, a wonderful dessert wine from grapes from the vineyard. Good luck getting your hands on some, as it is not for sale. What is for sale though is, to my mind, reasonably priced.

Although the food is wonderful, the interiors grand and full of interesting artwork, the true delight of the place is its gardens and the wonderful assault on all the senses that they achieve. A morning spent reading under a tree by the pool with stunning views of the mountain and the scent of the roses drifting across is bliss. There are lovely nooks and crannies and quiet spots to explore with well-positioned benches. It is peaceful and quiet and animal lovers may enjoy the company of resident cats Socks and Fluffy.

The Cellars, as it is commonly known, is also close to South Africa’s most famous gardens, Kirstenbosch, as well as Newlands Forest. It’s also near zipline fun as you head over Constantia Nek towards Hout Bay and the gorgeous Chapman’s Peak drive en route to, say, Cape Point Vineyards (not to mention Constantia’s famous wine estates), the beautiful Atlantic Ocean beaches and Silvermine Nature Reserve.

There are so many out-of-town options, though relaxing on the hotel terrace alongside the Koi pond is equally agreeable.

Call 021 794 5535 or visit www.collectionmcgrath.com

Adrian Rorvik, Sunday Tribune

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