Cape Town - Forty percent of the global Southern Right whale population can’t be wrong.
Each year from May until November they choose De Hoop Nature Reserve to mate, calve and run their nurseries.
You can see up to 300 of these magnificent creatures at a time in the bay as they undulate in the swell, their barnacle-encrusted heads appearing intermittently above the water, spyhopping.
As these giants from the deep wallow, breach and blow, they take laid back, but resolute, ownership of their ocean. They seem to be aware they are in paradise – the marine protected area extends 5km out to sea – it is safe, food is plentiful, it’s an ideal stopover before heading back to Antarctica.
One can’t blame them.
De Hoop, with its 70km of pristine coastline, is a cocoon of genial co-habitation of various species and one is very soon caught up in the unspoiled ecosystem. The luxury doesn’t do any harm either.
Our home for three days was the Melkamer Manor House – a five star accommodation option. Access to the Manor House from reception is either a quick aquaplane across the water in a speed boat or for those who prefer terra firma, a scenic drive. Melkamer is a charming private sandstone cottage hidden among nature’s bizarre sculptures – the gnarled twisted milkwood trees.
Although the majestic gables follow a Neo Cape Dutch style there is an eclectic mix of certain Edwardian and Art Nouveau features. A corrugated iron roof, teak, stained glass doors, a cast iron tub and fireplaces tumble together to create the perfect design ... both rustic and luxurious. It has been restored to its former glory with four en-suite bedrooms, an enormous farm kitchen and wrap-around verandas. The generator is turned off at night and paraffin lamps are the only flickering stamp on the environment.
It is from the large front veranda that you can enjoy sundowners and canapés prepared by the private chef and watch the myriad bird and animal life, the streaks of pink flamingo catching the last light or listen to the high pitched Fish Eagle’s “call of Africa”. Or you if you are lucky you might spot the elusive Cape Clawless Otter digging with its dextrous fingers for eggs, frogs or crabs or just playing sleekly in the water. The 16km long de Hoop vlei is a highly productive eco system and Ramsar site, (rated of international ecological importance). The vlei and the wetlands teem with life.
The skies are no less busy. There are over 200 species of birds in De Hoop – from the common quail to the fiery-necked Nightjar. Then there are the bats. One species can reassuringly devour up to 500kg of insects a night so you can’t help but remember DH Lawrence’s poem as the transition from late afternoon to early evening is seamlessly choreographed by the swallows like “spools of dark thread sewing the shadows together” suddenly turn to bats, “an elastic shudder in flight – a black glove thrown up at the light with serrated wings against the sky”.
Rumour has it that as the sun sets and the bats appear, the ghost of De Hoop emerges, a young woman who choked on an oyster on her wedding night and who is said to wander the reserve – friendly and harmless (but prone to hysterical laughter) in a long white frock.
We didn’t see the otters either.
The reserve is a magnificent outdoor classroom – a diversity of practical, aesthetic, watershed protection to spiritual inspiration and the baboons were no exception. Presided over by resident baboon whisperer, Tony Phelps, they are so content you expect them to start a chorus of: “Don’t worry, be happy” as they gather to groom and absorb the sun’s winter rays lizard-like.
An unexpected privilege was to walk among them with Phelps and hopefully observe their bedtime routine. All the grooming and cosseting was the male’s domain, maybe because the females were in oestrus – they strut their stuff by prancing past and showing their charms (which resemble large undissected pink brains attached to their rear ends) to the males.
Phelps spends hours and hours with them each day observing their activity cycles and recording them for The University of Luthridge, in Canada, so used to him by now they ignore him, which allows him to record their natural behaviour.
Finally we sit at the entrance to their underground cave – they are the only recorded troop to live underground. The tussling, chattering troop slips the 7 metres into their limestone home like prep learners into their dorm. Mothers with babies like Lilliputian jockeys disappear into the darkness. They are jovial, relaxed, at peace.
De Hoop, the first private/public partnership in the hospitality industry – between De Hoop Collection and CapeNature – offers an opportunity to reflect on and absorb the harmony.
l To contact the De Hoop Collection, call 0 861 33 4667 or 021 422 4522, e-mail info@dehoop collection.co.za or res@dehoop collection.co.za See www.dehoop collection.co.za or facebook: De Hoop
Cape Times