A troop of Chacma baboons sits on a bridge over the Palmiet estuary, waiting for a cool breeze from the water to offer some respite from the heat. They’re a kind of welcoming committee as I near my destination, the coastal town of Kleinmond, home to one of the province’s top resorts, the Arabella Hotel & Spa.
The town is just over an hour-and-a-half from Cape Town, along Clarence Drive or the R44, the coastal road which skirts breathtaking beaches and the rugged Hottentots-Holland mountain range.
I take a detour down a gravel road into the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, described as “an escape to nature where there are no traffic lights, casinos or cinemas” before I check into the resort. It’s home to 1 880 plant species, second only to the South American rainforest.
Conservationist Zibele Blekiwe says a biosphere means there are no fences to keep people in or out. But there is a commitment from communities, the government and conservationists to protect this magnificent landscape.
“This is the heart of the fynbos kingdom. We’re building five new overnight cabins for guests to enjoy the tranquillity. They should be completed next month. You can hike, mountain bike or kayak.”
The star of the show at the moment is the rare red disa flower, the size of a coin.
But I’d have to hike in search of this beauty. So instead we head to the Rooisand Nature Reserve, where there is a chance of catching a glimpse of the shy wild horses that roam the dunes and wetlands.
Blekiwe says there are 23 horses in the herd, one of two wild herds in southern Africa. The other is in Namibia, said to be descendants of military mounts abandoned after the Anglo-Boer War.
After a bumpy ride on a dirt road we stop. I’m in luck. Grazing in the distance among the bird life is a group of horses. I drink in the view and take the time to appreciate the stillness and sanctity of this place.
I receive a blessedly cool welcome at the Arabella Resort and Spa, thanks to the air-conditioning. The entrance is grand, with soaring wooden beams. Large windows along one side of the entire lobby look out on to water cascading into the swimming pool. On the other side there is the vast Bot River Lagoon and the 18-hole, par 72 Peter Matkovich golf course.
The resort has recently been added to Protea’s superior luxury collection, African Pride Hotels.
I meet Leon Meyer, the new general manager, over lunch. I tuck into a delicious sandwich of prawns, salmon and dressing. The wholewheat bread is freshly baked on the premises. There is a side serving of chunky potato wedges dusted with herbs and coarse salt.
There has been a shift from the resort’s focus from a predominantly international market. Overseas visitor numbers have been fickle since 2007, a situation exacerbated by the global economic crisis. So they drew on their 30-year experience in the SA hospitality industry.
“We flipped the ratio – now 85 percent of our guests are local travellers, a market Protea knows well. While South Africans might not necessarily spend money on an overseas trip, they’re still willing to spend money on holidays at home.
“We are a lifestyle resort. We offer one of the top golf courses in the country – some of the world’s finest golfers have played here. There is a luxurious spa. We are ideally situated among boutique wine farms, pristine nature reserves with great outdoor activities like whale watching, hiking, horse riding and mountain bike trails and beautiful beaches.”
He says it’s not a fixed rule that women head for the spa and men for the greens. The dawn of the metrosexual has led to more men booking a pamper session at the spa, while the fairer sex are often out on the fairways, or testing their mettle on the 8th hole, which has been described as one of the most beautiful par 5s in the country.
After the interview I have a tour of the hotel. There are five different classes of rooms ranging from deluxe to the presidential suite. The Première restaurant offers seafood and Jamani, “rustic” South African fare. There is a cigar lounge, the Laguana lounge and the Barnabas Bar, which offers colourful cocktails and rich malts. There is a large range of conference facilities.
Then it’s time for some fun.
The last time I was on a golf range it was apparent that I was no Michelle Wie (the first female golfer to qualify for a USG National tournament). When my club finally connected with the ball, it flew to the high heavens, only to plonk back down at my feet. The only fun I’d have on the green would be zooming around in the golf cart. I suspect that would be frowned upon.
So I opt for what any self-respecting metrosexual would – a one-hour Swedish massage. The masseuse works her magic. My body is kneaded and rubbed down until the stress eases away. Deeply relaxed, I retreat to my room, a grand deluxe with stunning views of the lagoon and golf course. It’s spacious, with a small lounge and a lavish kingsize bed. The large bathroom has a similar view, and there is a TV overhead. There is a large private balcony, where you can enjoy your breakfast.
Dinner is served in the Première. Still in a trance from my massage, I watch the sunset on the glassy lagoon as the last of the golfers wrap up their game. I eat perlemoen and prawn bake, tender steak and Elgin apple pie.
Back in my suite I find a surprise, a tray of strawberries, chocolate dipping sauce, chocolate mousse and brownies. The Arabella just gave new meaning to the expression sweet dreams.
The next morning I enjoy breakfast overlooking the pool, and then leave, pampered and rejuvenated.
l Melanie Peters was a guest of the Arabella Resort and Spa. - Weekend Argus