Falling for Swellendam’s charms

Published Jun 7, 2013

Share

Cape Town - The cooler months are definitely my favourite time of year, and what better season to visit Swellendam than when autumn first puts on her golden crown. Okay, I admit I have good reason to keep going back – my mom lives there – and when my husband absconded to Australia for most of April, I decided to go and spend quality time with her.

I’ve said it before, and I’ll quite happily say it again: Swellendam really is a little town where you can indulge in the age-old South African custom of kuier – and kuier my mom and I did, unhurried and absolutely chilled out. And we had plenty to see and do without leaving the town (though we did indulge in one epic road trip just for the hell of it).

The Overberg in autumn is vastly different from the area in summertime. The farmers are busy sowing, and the first sprinkling of rain has brought the once-barren hills to life with a hint of verdant growth that transforms this landscape during winter. But the skies are temperamental. One moment the heavens will be blue with only wisps of cloud. The next it’s all gloomy cloud cover and chill wind, and you’d best pack a warm jacket or consider a destination that offers a roaring log fire.

A drive along the scenic back roads to Stanford and back is well worth the effort – very little traffic and towns such as Bredasdorp and Napier offer charms uniquely their own, though I admit Stanford, with so much of its Victorian-era architecture intact, still holds on to its quaint edge when so much of the Whale Coast has become thoroughly commercialised.

But after our yen for a mini road trip was satisfied, Mom and I drew up our “kuier” list of things to do, people to see and places to be in Swellendam. First on that list was a visit to the home of artist Jan du Toit.

“Oh, you must go and see his Marie Antoinette shoes,” said a friend of my mom’s who elaborated on delicate ceramic footwear covered in floral motifs. So, naturally, my curiosity was piqued.

And that’s the thing about Swellendam. It’s a small town. Everyone knows everyone. One phone call later and Jan not only showed us his ceramics, but took us on a short, personalised tour of his paintings, accompanied by anecdotes about each artwork’s origin. What particularly caught my eye was a massive canvas hanging above the fireplace which featured an Africanised version of the goddess Athena and the Greek pantheon. His use of colour and eye for detail, both on canvas and ceramics, are magical. Du Toit has the ability to capture a moment, be it exquisite floral detail on a jug or the delicate curve of a ladies’ shoe conjured out of fragile clay.

Mom and I were fortunate enough to be invited for dinner with Michel and Henk from the Augusta de Mist guest house – set in lush grounds just off Voortrek Street. This is a treat not to be missed though it is usually reserved for those staying at the guest house. But our charming hosts were keen to showcase their formidable culinary talents with a six-course meal. And that’s the catch with their offerings: no two menus are ever alike. For Mom this was an unforgettable experience, as she had the opportunity to try such exotic-sounding dishes as Tunisian green soup, spanspek and springbok, Durban-style chole roti, Cape Malay bobotie, Trou Normand (blackberry sorbet) and tarte au citron. Henk and Michel and their team conjure up a magical fusion of Africa meets Europe while flirting with the East. Even better, wherever possible, they use only locally farmed produce.

Possibly one of the greatest ironies of all the time I’ve spent in Swellendam is that I’ve never once swung past Wildebraam Berry Estate – and we’re talking almost a decade’s worth of visits. But I remedied that, and I wish I’d visited sooner. Wildebraam is situated in an area know as the Hermitage, which looks up to one of the mysterious kloofs in the Langeberg. I’m not exaggerating when I say that everything there is green for most of the year. You almost feel like you’ve snuck into a little piece of English countryside. Wildebraam, of course, is known for its berries, and when you visit the liqueur cellar and deli, you simply must taste. Everything.

Granted, I had my mom taste the liqueurs (she was considerably merrier afterwards) and I joined in on tasting the what seems like an unlimited spread of preserves and jams. I had simply no idea there were so many things you could do with berries (which I love dearly), and from the absolutely devilishly divine preserves down to the bulk packs of frozen berries you can buy for your own use, Wildbraam has a lot to offer, including tastings, a cheese shop, biking, hiking, horse-back riding and birding. Also, if you’re looking for self-catering accommodation, there are cottages available.

Mostly, Mom and I trawled the coffee shops of Swellendam. There are a lot of them, and cafés, in Swellendam. You could probably spend a week in the town and not get round to every spot. Most of the locals are all gabbing about Tredici, a massive (by Swellendam standards) new complex near one of the N2 off-ramps (you really can’t miss the very much Italian-style architecture). We had to go and take a look. My verdict: this deli/restaurant/café definitely doesn’t have the quaint, local flavour you’ll find in the town itself. The décor is decidedly trendy and the massive fireplace is certainly eye-catching and will be welcome in winter. But sheesh. The price of coffee. Let’s not go there. I do admit it was bloody nice coffee. But I don’t pay that much for a cappuccino in Cape Town and I sure as hell don’t expect a price like that in Swellendam. If you’re willing to cough up the dough for Tredici’s offerings, though, I’ve been told their food is absolutely fabulous and delicious.

 

But if I must gush about a place I found I’ll be revisiting, it’s de Companjie, run by husband-and-wife duo Jacques and Mari-Louise van der Merwe. Situated in one of Swellendam’s historical buildings that’s recently been lovingly restored after it was devastated by a fire, de Companjie is one of those local outlets that offers visitors a little something of everything. I will stake my life on the fact that they serve up possibly the best carrot cake in the Overberg. But you can browse for clothing, too, and if you’re looking for further deliciousness, you can buy beef (brought in fresh and hormone and stimulant free from the Van der Merwe farm in the Northern Cape). In addition, they offer accommodation – right in the centre of town, so you’re pretty much within walking distance of everyone.

No visit to Swellendam is complete unless I’ve had a chance to swing past Rooiklip Nursery, which is situated on Voortrek Street. I’ve known of owner Jaap Viljoen for years through various succulent plant forums and was overjoyed when I found out that he was settling in Swellendam. He cultivates possibly the largest collection of aloes, cycads and clivias in the Western Cape and, if you’ve got green fingers, then I totally recommend paying him a visit. The conservatory alone offers so much to choose from or pine after, your wallet will be considerably lighter and your car heavier by the time you depart.

If You Go...

l Jan du Toit on 028 514 2955 or e-mail [email protected]

l Augusta de Mist guest house: 028 514 2425, e-mail [email protected] or see www.augustademist.com

l Wildebraam Berry Estate Call 028 514 3121, e-mail [email protected] and see www.wildebraam.co.za

l Tredici: 028 514 2216, e-mail [email protected] and see www.tredici.co.za

l De Companjie: De Companjie is situated at 5 Voortrek Street, Swellendam. Call 083 446 1123 and e-mail [email protected]

l Rooiklip Nursery: 082 955 5455 or e-mail [email protected] - Sunday Independent

Related Topics: