Hermanus - Dinner at the five-star Schulphoek guesthouse was an extraordinary occasion. Owners Petro and Mannes van Zyl were consummate hosts and pulled out all the stops for this lavish yet unpretentious affair, which is held nightly for guests.
We first joined other guests in the main cellar before dinner to choose wines to pair with Mannes’s menu. While those were opened to breathe, we exchanged introductions with fellow guests over aperitifs in the lounge against the beautiful backdrop of the cove from which Schulphoek takes its name.
The guests were a veritable United Nations, with Switzerland, Poland, the US, the UK, Japan and South Africa represented.
While Petro acted as host, Mannes put in brief appearances from the kitchen, which served superb food prepared mostly from ingredients picked from their organic garden. The food coupled with the excellent wine made for a convivial evening that stretched well past midnight.
It’s clear that Petro and Mannes take great care and pride in what they do, which explains why Schulphoek is the success it is.
We were lucky enough to be accommodated in the garden suite (Oyster), which had an enormous bathroom complete with bidet and Jacuzzi.
After our dusty drive there, we were grateful for the complimentary drinks and delicious platter we were treated to on arrival.
Naturally, there were all the bits one would expect to find in a fine establishment, plus free wi-fi throughout the property.
Schulphoek also has sweeping views of the coast, but not the town, which is hidden by the point.
Talking towns, Hermanus residents have a strong sense of civic pride and pitch in to keep their area pristine, raising money to create a pathway through the marine reserve on the coast.
Apart from whales, the protected cove that Schulphoek overlooks and its shoreline are home to many birds, small mammals, marine life and beautiful fynbos.
The first stop when we left to explore further was the tasting room of Hermanuspietersfontein to learn more about the wines and the label. Hermanuspietersfontein was the original name for Hermanus.
We lunched al fresco at Eat, where owner Petri Hendriks treated us to pre-noon cocktails, followed by a great seafood risotto. His is a tantalisingly varied (and well-priced) menu, which includes pizza, pork belly, and Thai and Moroccan dishes.
After lunch we headed up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, stopping at Newton Johnson Vineyards. From here there are spectacular views over the ocean. We enjoyed cappuccinos on the terrace before sampling some of their wines.
The pinot noir and chardonnay really appealed to us, as did the syrah and sauvignon blanc. The contemporary-styled winery is built against the mountain slope in order to facilitate grape processing via gravity, and the glass walls and windows afforded glimpses of the winery in action.
We continued up the valley to Creation Wines. With the first harvest only in 2007, it’s amazing what strides this young estate has made.
Owner Carolyn Martin, mischievous sommelier Khail, plus the soothing setting, utterly charmed us, as did their wines.
The next day we took in Hermanus itself and enjoyed a lovely seafood lunch at Lemon Butta, beginning with freshly sliced tuna carpaccio drizzled with ponzu sauce.
The afternoon was spent watching whales, browsing the many stalls and strolling along the cliff paths.
That night we found ourselves dining at Fusion Cafe, where we enjoyed their signature burger – beef patty topped with prosciutto, brie and fig chutney.
In between all our adventures we managed to enjoy the elegant charm of Schulphoek, sunning ourselves by the pool or simply enjoying the views.
What bliss.
* Schulphoek is part of Portfolio Collection. Rates are from R1 000 per person sharing per night. Call 021 702 1236 or visit www.portfoliocollection.com