Visit a still lake, hidden treasures in KZN

Published Jun 25, 2007

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Two of KwaZulu Natal's most attractive spots, Lake Kenmo and Slayley Woods, can be described as accidental tourist attractions.

Not funded by provincial money or public enterprise, they were private sanctuaries for many years until outside visitors were allowed to share the family treasures.

I first discovered Lake Kenmo four years ago while on a visit to Himeville in the southern Drakensberg. It was autumn and - in awe of the flaming colour of the trees around the lake in early May - I shot at least three 36-rolls of film, frantically capturing the beauty of the magnificent vista as if it was about to disappear.

Film, as I tried to explain to my seven-year-old grandson the other day, was a gelatine-coated substance you rolled off behind your camera lens to capture images - which you then had to take to a lab to be developed. It's a long story, I said.

The lake and the trees at Lake Kenmo in autumn are reminiscent of the breath-taking images of "Fall in New England" in those glossy American travel brochures.

Imagine dazzling red and orange-leafed trees, reflected in mirror-like water, add a family of yellow-billed ducks skimming the surface, and the cry of a fish eagle overhead, and there was a vision I simply could not wait to capture on … my memory card. My grandson told me about memory cards.

"For heaven's sake, put the handbrake on!" my wife screamed, as I abandoned her in the Toyota on the banks of the lake for my latest Kenmo photo session.

Lake Kenmo is the creation of the late Kenneth Lund and his wife, Mona (the "Ken" and "Mo" of Kenmo), who bought the Southern Berg farm, Hazeldene, in 1937.

The couple were both tree lovers but few indigenous trees can tolerate the sharp temperature variations - nor the howling winds - of winter in this part of the Drakensberg. So the Lunds started experimenting with exotic trees and created Hazeldene Nursery, planting about 4 000 trees a year on the farm and selling or donating the balance.

The entire district became enthusiastic: the dramatic metamorphosis of maple trees during autumn is a bit different to acacias' more predictable change of seasonal looks. They noticed the Lunds cultivating oak, plane, poplar, elderberry, alder, birch, cypress, liquid-amber, crab-apple, tulip trees as well as flowering cherries and many other varieties.

Ken and Mona created a large nature reserve around an artificial lake on the farm, carefully choosing trees that would reflect colours in the water.

After his death in 1982, Ken's ashes were scattered at his beloved Kenmo and the family then decided to open the lake to the public as his personal legacy to the people of the district. His son, Jack, tells me it has become an enormously popular picnic spot for the locals and that visitors, generally, respect the place and behave responsibly.

Certainly, on both occasions we visited, there was no sign of litter around the lake. Visitors to Kenmo often show an interest in acquiring some of the exotic trees for their own properties and the Lund's Hazeldene Tree Nursery now specialises in this type of stock which is sold as established three- to four-metre-high trees. "We have supplied developers throughout KwaZulu-Natal and even in Gauteng," Jack added.

If your next visit to the southern Drakensberg falls any time between February and May, don't miss Lake Kenmo. Admission is free - and it's a memorable experience.

KZN's other private-turned-public treasure is in the most unexpected place. The large house and sprawling gardens of Slayley Woods are in the middle of Park Rynie's industrial area: the relatively small industrial node over the years developed around the home of the Crookes family.

Jean Crookes is the last remaining family member and now, in the autumn of her life, makes the garden available to the public in a controlled manner. It's understandable: this is her personal garden, after all.

The gardens can only be visited by prior arrangement and apart from a wish that the public should also enjoy the beauty of the family's creation, Ms Crookes's other motive for allowing visitors is to harvest donations for the Alexandra Homes for the Aged in Scottburgh.

We first learnt of Slayley Woods when we noticed the Blue Marlin Hotel's Thursday excursion for guests was to this acclaimed garden in Park Rynie and a special visit was arranged.

Aaron, the gardener - who proudly recalled he had, with the help of a colleague, built many of the picturesque features of Slayley Woods - took us on a private tour.

Slayley Woods is a spectacular 4-hectares botanic-type garden, overlooking the Indian Ocean in the distance. It features a host of forest trees such as Natal mahogany, Umdoni, white stinkwood, flat crown, flame, and coral as well as probably the most southerly baobab in South Africa. Many of the trees are named and numbered.

The gardens were first landscaped in 1961 when azaleas, hydrangeas, and trees were planted. Over the years, Slayley Woods has evolved into a mosaic of different plantings: formal, informal and indigenous.

Aaron showed us one of Slayley's prime attractions, the Italianate Garden - inspired by Bodnant in North Wales, and the Palazzo Rufolo Gardens at Ravello on the Amalfi coast.

My camera worked overtime as Aaron's tour path led to fountains, urns, statues, pergolas, the water lily pond, the boardwalk, palm area, and rose garden, Then, nearing the end of the tour, we ended up at a charming dolphin pool filled with koi.

"Wait," Aaron implored as I lined up the pool on my LCD display screen. "Let me put the fountains on first," the barefoot gardener said, disappearing into the bushes.

It was worth the wait: although the pond was by now bathed in late afternoon shadows, the fountains' effect was indeed splendid.

Slayley Woods is, as the brochure states, "a garden for all seasons".

Even hardened Durban Horticultural Society judges have raved about "the many enchanting features such as the Moon Gate and the Golden Garden".

Jean Crookes has also opened it for public events such as antiques shows and concerts. The charming little amphitheatre must be the most magical setting for Mozart on a warm sub-tropical night.

- To reach Lake Kenmo: Leave the village of Himeville, heading towards Sani Pass but do not turn left into the Sani Pass road at the outskirts of the village. Keep straight on the Lotheni road; the turn-off to Hazeldene/Kenmo is just a few kilometres further. To contact Hazeldene Tree Nursery, phone 033-702-1686 but there is no need for prior visiting arrangements.

- To reach Slayley Woods: From Park Rynie on the South Coast, take the turn-off to the industrial area (Umzinto Exit 104) and look for the Slayley Woods signage. To arrange a visit, phone 039-976-0456.

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