Forests of cool, green calm

Published Dec 21, 2010

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Johannesburg residents already live in the biggest man-made forest on earth, but for those wanting real forestscapes there’s lots to choose from around the country. Grab your walking shoes, bird books and binoculars and head out into the green.

Alexandria Forest, Eastern Cape

Just 100km east of Port Elizabeth, Alexandria Forest is a stretch of transitional coastal forest that’s very dense and very narrow – just 10m wide in fact. Yet it’s acclaimed as one of the finest indigenous forests along the coast and is part of the world-renowned Addo Elephant National Park. Alexandria Forest is home to rare wildlife, myriad orchids and prolific birdlife.

As you walk under the forest canopy of giant yellowwoods, coastal coral trees and white stinkwoods, the diversity of bird life is magical. There are Knysna woodpeckers, Narina trogons, Knysna turacos, Chorister robin-chats, collared and grey sunbirds, olive pigeons, trumpeter hornbills and more. You may also see shy bushbuck, bushpig, Cape grysbok, steenbok, mongooses and rare blue duiker. Then there is a huge assortment of orchids, both tree orchids and the ground variety, that turn the forest into a floral fantasy.

The easy two-day Alexandria Trail is one of the finest ways to experience the forest. Starting at the fire station near the town of Alexandria, the 36km trail passes through the forest and then over the Alexandria dunefield – South Africa’s largest active dune system – with an overnight stay in a trail hut.

Kosi Bay Forest, KwaZulu-Natal

In the far north-eastern corner of the province is a unique nature reserve. The system of lakes, rivers, wetlands and coastal forest that comprise Kosi Bay Nature Reserve make the area awesome for wildlife and outdoor lovers – plus, it’s one of South Africa’s birding hotspots.

Mangroves and swamp forest, coastal dune and raffia palm forest, plus an unusual sycamore fig forest make this area a secure home to over 250 bird species – including palmnut vultures in the raffia forest and spectacular Livingstones Louries. The Swamp Forest up the Siyandia River also yields rare Pel’s fishing owls and purple herons. In the sand forest is an array of typical east coast birds. The diversity in the area is enormous and one way to enjoy it up close is on a four-day guided hike – with a birding book, binoculars and protection against malaria.

Tsitsikamma Forest, Garden Route

Tsitsikamma National Park hugs the coastline for 80km between the Groot Brak River and Nature’s Valley in the Eastern Cape. Though it was proclaimed as South Africa’s first marine national park, it also protects a pristine stretch of rainforest that once carpeted the entire coastline. There are giant yellowwoods nearly 50m high, ancient stinkwoods, ironwoods, white pear trees and enormous primeval tree ferns.

The Tsitsikamma forest is pure paradise for walkers and hikers, with trails to suit all levels of fitness and outdoor interest. From the one-kilometre Mouth Trail along a boardwalk to the mouth of the Storms River, to the epic 42.5km Otter Trail – rated the best trail in South Africa – everyone can get out and about in Tsitsikamma.

The Otter Trail, from Storms River Rest Camp in the park to Nature’s Valley, takes five days along the coast through forest and fynbos. The Blue Duiker Trail is 4km long and takes about three hours. It winds inland through the forest and the best time to see the rare blue duiker that live there is early morning or late evening. Named after the endemic and colourful Knysna Lourie, the Lourie Trail is a kilometre long through the forest and is a good choice for birders.

There are over 220 bird species in Tsitsikamma, 35 of which are exclusive to the forest. Look out for Knysna louries, bulbuls, chorister robins, blackheaded orioles, narina trogons, paradise flycatchers and, at the top of the pecking order, crowned eagles. Tiniest of the forest dwellers is the lesser double-collared sunbird, and wood owls come out at night to pick mice off the forest floor. Other forest inhabitants include dappled bushbuck, bushpig, leopard and genet, and the master of disguise: the Knysna dwarf chameleon.

Intrepid Tarzans and Janes can explore this forest canopy on a guided tour along steel cables through the tree tops – landing on treetop decks 30m above ground level to admire the forest views.

Newlands Forest, Cape Town

Capetonians don’t have to look far for a quick forest getaway. Newlands Forest on the slopes of Table Mountain is open daily from 8am to 6pm in winter and 7am to 8pm in summer. You can walk, cycle or bring your braai and have a picnic lunch in the forest – just leave the dogs at home.

If you enjoy hiking, take the route starting and ending at Newlands Forest Station. It takes about 75 minutes and much of the route is in shade. On route there are good views over Cape Town as well as picnic spots. While the trail is easy, hikers should stay on the track and not be tempted to take other paths. Night walks are also offered in Newlands Forest for spider fundis.

Natural tranquility, coolness and calmness, birdsong and the soothing rustle of a gentle breeze through the trees, little restores body and mind like time in a forest. It’s natural spa therapy.

Other forest forays:

Treetop canopy tours in Tsitsikamma, Eastern Cape:

Telephone: 042 281 1836; www.treetoptour.com

In KwaZulu-Natal with Karkloof Canopy Tours: Tel: 033 330 3415; www.karkloof canopytour.co.za

Tree top hides and walks at Mapungubwe National Park

Telephone: 015 534 2014; www. sanparks.org and at Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk

See www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk

Forest accommodation: Intsomi Lodge, in the Alexandria Forest – tel: 046 653 8903; e-mail: [email protected]; Kosi Forest Lodge – tel: 035 474 1504; Tsitsikamma National Park - tel: 042 280 3561, see www. sanparks.co.za

Treehouse accommodation at Teniqua Treetops, Tsitsikamma, - www.teniquatreetops.co.za; lPhantom Forest Eco-Reserve, Garden Route:

www.phantomforest.com; Sycamore Avenue Treehouse Lodge, KwaZulu-Natal:

www.sycamore-ave.com; lJaci’s Tree Lodge, Madikwe Game Reserve, North West - www.madikwe.com; Pezulu Tree House Lodge, Limpopo – www.pezulu.co.za

Sunland Tree Bar, Limpopo – See www.baobab.fhi.co.za - Saturday Star

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