48 hours in balmy Mauritius

Published Jun 2, 2015

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Port Louis - Only a few memories remain of my first visit to Mauritius. It was on the Achille Lauro, it was 1983 and I was too young to appreciate Mauritian Rum; but the island left an indelible impression.

Thirty-two years and three recent visits later, many a morning after testified to the island’s exceptional rum and to unforgettable memories.

Mauritius is more than just sun, sea and sand. It is a holiday island that has seen South Africans return time and again over the five decades that SAA has flown directly between Joburg and the land of the dodo. The glass is never half-empty there.

Now, before this story starts sounding like an infomercial and at the risk of repetition, there is so much more to this island than its calm azure waters and gleaming beaches. Getting away from the hustle and bustle cliché is easy and only a few hours of chilling on a flight is a first step to a weekend break that spells fun with a capital You.

Fly to Mauritius’s Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport to and from OR Tambo International Airport in Jozi. Air access is easy and not too harsh on the pocket.

 

Late afternoon, Thursday

Wheels down, take in the tropical humidity that envelops your senses well before the aircraft doors have even opened. Head through immigration at an efficient speed and transfer to your hotel.

For a truly luxurious and indulgent stay, the Saint Geran One and Only is the only destination. First imagined and launched by hotelier and entrepreneurial legend Sol Kerzner in 1975, the resort has maintained its character. With its recent refurbishment, it competes with some of the world’s top leisure properties. It is certainly one of Mauritius’s greatest assets.

But make sure you enjoy the drive between the airport and the Saint Geran. Ask your shuttle to pit-stop at one of the many mini markets along the route and bag a six-pack of Mauritian brew. An ice-cold Phoenix shortens the 45-minute drive.

Arrival at the Saint Geran is an occasion, with a warmth that registers higher than the mercury. Staff are welcoming and friendly and the sea-facing rooms inviting. I measure upper-end properties by their dressing gowns and slippers. The Saint Geran provides two gowns, one light for daytime and the other heavy towelling. A good omen for what would turn out to be a fantastic stay.

 

Friday, day one

One of the best things about travelling is that someone else makes your bed, and someone else cooks for you. Make sure you don’t miss the breakfast buffet. It is a smorgasbord of choice, taste and some of the best pastries this side of a Parisian patisserie. You would not need lunch.

Spend the first day getting into “slow”; amble over to the beach to soak up rays or, armed with a good book, claim a hammock under the palms. Do as little as possible and, after posting pics, turn off the free wi-fi.

The Saint Geran offers the less lazy a gazillion activities. For the more adventurous, the resort has unlimited water-skiing, kayaks, snorkelling, trips in glass-bottomed boats and Hobie Cats, among other things. There is also a nine-hole Gary Player golf course and tennis. A kids’ club takes care of juniors while adults are at play.

Make sure that dinner is at Prime, on at least one night. It is the resort’s flagship restaurant, and has exceptional flavours and fantastic wines for pairing.

 

Saturday, day two

Hit the road early and explore the island. Make sure you have had breakfast as driving in Mauritius is not fast. While the island is fairly small, the distance between, say, Mogale City and Boksburg is covered in about the same time as in Joburg’s rush hour. Go everywhere slowly is the motto. Take in the sugar cane fields and villages on the way to Bois Cheri, the home of Mauritian tea.

Tea was grown for the first time on the island on the Bois Cheri estate in 1892. The estate is the largest tea producer in Mauritius and a tea tasting and factory visit are a must on any itinerary. Enjoy the variety of palette-pleasing brews and spectacular views. Bois Cheri tea is not available at home, so do not leave without a bag.

On the way to the Rhumerie de Chamarel, pass the Grand Bassin – a holy Hindu site, where it has been said that water from the Ganges was once decanted into the lake. Surrounded by pagodas, a myriad gods, temples and the faithful, a visit to the lake is a rich cultural and spiritual injection. Giant effigies of Shiva, one under construction, flank the road on the way to Chamarel’s rum distillery.

The Chamarel Rhumerie is an experience not to be missed. No matter your mood as you walk in, exiting will be with a big smile after the rum-tasting. It is a great place for lunch, with Mauritian curries that are some of the most subtly flavourful I have tasted.

Heading back toward Saint Geran, side-track to the Black River Gorge and take in the views, the waterfalls and the selfie moments.

 

Sunday, day three

The drive to the airport is about an hour – make sure your flight is as late as possible. Head out early, but not before having a last go at the Saint Geran breakfast.

Port Louis, the capital, is a drive of about 90 minutes from the Saint Geran. Since Victorian times the Central Market in Port Louis has been a hub of the city’s economy. From souvenirs to fresh produce and herbal aphrodisiacs, it is ranked as one of the island’s top attractions.

It closes at midday on a Sunday, so don’t take your time in getting there. Haggling for a bargain is exhausting, but a good rule of thumb is to halve the quoted price and allow negotiation to up the price to 70 percent of the original.

Visit the Pamplemousses Botanical Gardens for relief from market malaise. There are also museums and smaller markets to explore.

Driving back to the Saint Geran, visit the coloured sands. A remnant of ancient volcanic flow, the seven coloured sands make a great setting for a 10-minute break.

Have lunch at one of the many roadside restaurants.

Enjoy a Blue Marlin beer and a last shot or many of rum, the Mauritian way. They call it “punch” – probably a reference to the impact of having one too many.

Squish a lemon in a glass, mix with brown sugar until mushy. Add rum to taste and crushed ice.

Two of these will ensure the longish drive to the airport will leave you refreshed after dreaming about this incredible island.

Hein Kaiser, Saturday Star

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