An island paradise fit for royalty

Published Dec 5, 2014

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Victoria, Seychelles - I have always considered it a part of human nature to take serious exception or offence at being woken up in the ungodly hours of the night.

That was until I found my sleep being constantly interrupted by the sound of waves crashing against the shore near my hotel room in Seychelles.

Falling asleep with a balcony door slightly ajar and listening to the waves smacking the seashore, their frequent kissing echoing through the grand hotel, is one of my unforgettable moments.

Eden Island is one of Seychelles’s most seductive places, enchanting in its beauty and splendour. As I lay in my bamboo bed at the grand Eden Bleu Hotel overlooking this picturesque setting, I realised just how foolish I was to have thought that whoever invited me on this voyage was intent on abandoning me on some desolate island.

You see, there are some places that, by the nature of their location, lie almost precariously on the verge of earthly paradise: they are so hypnotising in their sheer beauty and splendour.

 

It crossed my mind that Britain’s Prince William and his then fiancée Kate Middleton had, in the spring of 2011, while looking for a secluded location to elope for their honeymoon, quietly slipped into the Seychelles.

And here I was, surrounded by Royal beauty and luxury. That was on the Sunday morning after the party for Eden Blue Hotel’s opening ceremony, when I was still drooling from a concert featuring the vintage UB40 with South Africa’s own Jeremy Loops.

Businesspeople have begun to realise the investment potential of the island. South African property developer Craig Heer’s optimism is reflected in the construction of the imposing Eden Bleu Hotel, which combines residential and commercial apartment suites.

A Saturday spent leisurely on boat cruise to the middle of the bay was probably the quintessential way to explore Eden Island. I had thought that feeding fish and snorkelling – especially when you marvel at the various species of colourful fish and sea life from a glass-bottom boat in the National Marine Park, was sufficient for a pastime.

But a visit to the Seychelles would not be complete without leaping in those gorgeous, silver blue waters and I didn’t have to wait for an invitation for a swim from my travel companions.

Avoiding the water would have given credence to the stereotypical belief that black people can’t swim. The sea rescuers seem to pay special attention to every move and the frequent dips into the deep sea I made.

“Are you okay, is everything still fine?” they kept on asking; however, they seemed to urge me into more action as I puckered the waters and swam along.

A ride to the peak of Mount Fleuri to the east of the capital Victoria takes you through wooden houses interspersed with modern Tuscan-style buildings beneath the tropical vegetation.

The peak of Mount Fleuri gives a striking view of the picturesque Eden Island, with the sparkling blue water and magnificent villas spread along the seashore.

A quick descent and detour off the main route leads to the Seychelles Botanical Garden, one of the country’s oldest national monuments. The tranquillity from the verdant and voluptuous coco palms and mahogany trees is striking.

The Botanical Garden’s big attractions are the giant tortoises lying quietly in the shade.

A quick trip away from the Botanical Garden takes you to Victoria city centre, the busy commercial and administrative capital of Seychelles.

The word “hurry” certainly does not feature in the vocabulary of the islanders.

Many simply sauntered along the streets, even under the watchful eye of Queen Victoria, whose giant statue dominates the main thoroughfare, Albert Street.

A quick turn around Albert Street leads to the main market, a beehive of activity from the stalls of fresh fish, tropical fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices displayed in an abundance of fragrances.

If you dread some of South Africa’s deadly roads, a drive through the Sans Souci mountains towards Mahé is far from the joyride any tourist would hope for.

I shuddered as our bus hurtled along precariously as it cut through the sharp curves along the cliffs. For someone used to the dare-devil drives through Magoebaskloof mountain pass in Tzaneen, the line between life and death seemed thin.

The San Souci mountain pass has another striking similarity with Magoebaskloof because of its heavily forested natural vegetation and neatly trimmed tea plantations. The stillness of the forest on the peak of the misty mountain bushes stretching all the way to the sea was so palpable that even the most of soft-booted steps scared the hell out of me.

Off the mountain while heading towards Villa Chez Batista restaurant, our road traversed spectacular grey granite rocks along the sea. Once at the restaurant, I lavished great care on nibbling on fresh oysters and lobsters while watching the vast expanse of the sea.

Seychelles is sultry but exotic with its sparkling, emerald waters lined with an abundance of effervescent tropical vegetation. Reluctantly, I returned home when the day came.

l Seale was a guest of Eden Bleu Hotel and Air Seychelles. Flight start at R9 000 for a return trip from Johannesburg. Hotel rates are from R4 500 per room, double occupancy, including breakfast. For more information visit edenbleu.com and airseychelles.com

Saturday Star

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