It’s a family Reunion!

Published Nov 27, 2011

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Nico Cyprien, our guide, exclaimed animatedly long after he was out of sight and earshot as he rappelled down the waterfall on our adventure tour. It says a lot about an island just 45km at its widest and 63km long that someone who has been enthusiastically guiding visitors for more than six years is still discovering new pleasures.

If you’re considering a trip of a lifetime, consider Reunion. If you have a French passport, marry me and let’s relocate.

The little French outpost of Reunion is fantastically diverse in its mix of cultures and geography. The melting pot of islanders is originally from France, Mozambique, India, China, Madagascar and the Comores and, apart from French expats, are a Creole mix.

Sugar, rum, vanilla, essential oils and seafood, but especially tourism, are synonymous with Reunion and nearly half the island is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The land rises swiftly from the shores to high plains and mountain heights and the climate ranges from humid and dry tropical to Mediterranean.

The capital city of St Denis was hot and humid when we touched down. The town has a mix of French colonial buildings built with volcanic blocks, some European designs and charming Creole architecture. Colours are fresh and bright.

In the morning we headed up to Salazie, one of three mountainous cirques or calderas, each with their own climate and landscape. No words or pictures can do them justice. As we drove through the beautiful, narrow valleys, we passed the many roadside shrines which dot the island and reflect the mix of predominantly Catholic beliefs mingled with Hindu, Tamil and Islam.

A misty drizzle set in as we drove, which turned the myriad waterfalls to seething torrents within hours.

The village of Hell Bourg with its ruined thermal baths is a delightful glimpse of yesteryear. The gardens of the Creole-style homes were ablaze with flowers and herbs endemic to Reunion.

And reinforcing its paradise status, the island has no poisonous spiders or snakes.

The caldera of Mafate is a wilderness accessible only by foot or helicopter and, like much of the island, is a hiker’s paradise with 140km of footpaths in varied landscapes among 10 peaks.

Cilaos, the sunniest and driest caldera, is overlooked by the 3017m Piton des Neiges. It is a haven for adrenalin junkies, nature lovers and those simply there to relax in a thermal spring. We didn’t relax long, though: canyoning beckoned.

Wide-eyed and grinning, we made our way down cliffs and waterfalls into clear mountain pools.

Another spectacular drive up from the coast, to the volcano this time, took us past lush farmland and head-turning views of high peaks and the sea.

We drove up, past forest and fynbos, to reach the Plaine des Sables, then on to the blasted landscape created by eruptions of Piton de la Fournaise (peak of the furnace), one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Be reassured that the volcano is one of the safest.

The coastline is as varied as the interior. From the black polished rocks below sheer cliffs at St Denis we moved south, crossing the lava field where the road was rebuilt after 60m thick lava flows in 2007.

Humidity gives way to drier areas. Sandy coves become ever longer golden or black beaches protected by reefs heading round to the west coast where almost all the water activities take place.

The west is a great base from which to explore. The friendly three-star Hotel le Recif, on the banks of the Hermitage Lagoon, provided a welcome rest and its three hectares of tropical gardens with Creole villas decked out in the colours of the Indian Ocean are a haven.

If You Go...

The hotel is located on some of the best beaches and is conveniently adjacent to a water park, restaurants and nightlife.

Facilities include two swimming pools, a fitness centre, a tennis court, volleyball court and a kids’ club. It is a great resort for couples and families. For further details, call Thompsons Holidays on 031 275 3733

Driving on the other side of the road is a challenge. Thank goodness the people are so polite and patient and the roads (feats of engineering) well maintained.

Our return flights from Joburg were sponsored by Air Austral, the only airline that flies directly from Joburg to Reunion, with a flying time of three and a half hours. Air Austral flies on Sundays, leaving 11.40pm, arriving in Reunion at 5.30am (Reunion time) and returning the same day.

The cost of a flight without a package starts at R3 620 excluding airport taxes of around R1 850, depending on exchange rates. For enquiries, call 011 452 0244, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.air-austral.com

The service, in economy and premium economy on the spotless planes, and in particular the food with French bubbly and wine, was a cut above. We debated whether food in economy was actually superior. When does that happen?

Premium economy affords some privacy up front, service in the blink of an eye and much more legroom and elbow room.

To plan, visit www.reunion.fr, check their Facebook page or contact Atout France – France Tourism Development Agency in Southern Africa on 011 523 8292; www.franceguide.com/za - Sunday Tribune

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