Port Louis - Fly to the island of Mauritius – the land of picture-perfect soft white sands, “coco loco” cocktails delivered to you right on the beach – a place where you can kick off your shoes, enjoy spa pampering or hike through volcanic rainforests.
A tropical holiday might not appeal to everyone, but if you can afford it, you should experience at least one.
In 1973, Mauritius was newly independent and quite a different place. Then hotel magnate Sol Kerzner sat on a beach in Poste de Flacq, north-east of the island, which has its own private peninsula, and decided it would make a superb location for a luxury hotel. Two years later, the Sun International Le Saint Géran, named for the 1744 sinking of the Le Saint Géran, which broke up in coral reefs off the nearby Ile de France, opened, sounding its first inviting gong for guests walking through their magnificent wooden doorway.
A massive rebranding and refurbishment in 1999 as part of the One&Only group followed and the hotel is now one of eight One&Only properties around the world: in Australia, Bahamas, China, Dubai, Maldives, Mexico, and South Africa.
Friendly, mindful service, luxurious accommodation and attention to detail define the One&Only brand and Le Saint Géran is no exception with 163 rooms divided into three categories: junior and ocean suits, and a discreet villa flat, all with 24-hour butler service. Rooms are fitted with Nespresso machines, iPod docking stations, wi-fi, 42-inch TVs, loungers on the balconies and Egyptian cotton linen.
Tropical fruit baskets are replenished daily. There’s a bath menu, which offers a range of aromatherapy oils and salts – the sweet-smelling frangipani oils, harvested from the country’s national flower, provide a heady scented experience which calls for a long soaking.
If pampering is in order, the hotel has a Bastien Gonzalez manicure-pedicure studio, as well as a beauty salon and spa with its own private heated pool. Gym bunnies can take advantage of the Technogym equipment in the sports centre, and if you’re travelling with youngsters, the fully supervised KidsOnly club caters to children from the age of 3. Gary Player designed the property’s nine-hole golf course, which is complimentary.
With three restaurants on site – the poolside La Terrasse, which serves local and international dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner; the romantic Indian restaurant Rasoi by Vineet on the water a distance from the main hotel; and Prime, a fine dining restaurant where Wagyu steaks, salade de millionaire (palm heart salad, made from the prized heart of the tree), and exquisite freshly caught shellfish define the contemporary menu – and the option of beach picnics or private parties in a designer teepee on the peninsula, there’s more than enough to keep you well fed and watered.
Overlooking the blue copper sulphate waters of the Indian Ocean, much of the action revolves around the casual La Terrasse: the breakfast buffet is spectacular in its diversity and quality. Their freshly baked almond croissants filled generously with soft buttery marzipan, pressed fruit and veggie juices, the range of charcuterie and cheeses, and fine teas provide ample fortification for the day ahead. At lunch, you could order from the Le Badamier cocktail bar under palm trees, where they also have a daily fish braai, or from the La Terrasse menu, with Angus burgers, fresh sea urchins, sushi, pizza and Mauritian curries.
I do advise, though, that you drag yourself away from your deck chair to explore the magic of the island. Go on a high-speed boat trip to the Blue Bay marine park, situated on the south-east coast near Mahebourg, where you can go snorkelling with tropical fish, bright corals, giant clams, sponges and anemones as well as octopuses, giant eels, starfish and sea urchins, which are a local delicacy. So is the fruit bat, which we saw high up in trees near the waterfall. I cannot recommend it though.
If you’re hungry, rather stop on a beach somewhere for a picnic (which the hotel packs) or head to the Île aux Cerfs or deer island, which is near the east coast of Mauritius in the Flacq district. Known for its gorgeous protected beaches and lagoon, Île aux Cerfs is one of Mauritius’s most popular tourist destinations with a vibrant market, numerous restaurants and kiosks selling island tours and activities.
South-west of the island is the modern Chamarel Rumerie, which opened in 2008. It’s a producer of premium aged and infused rums.
Also in Chamarel is the Curious Corner, where everything is either upside-down or a mind trip. Just opposite the (touristy, unimpressive) Seven Coloured Earth entrance in the village, the gallery has about 40 exhibits including a mirror maze and a laser music room, where visitors can play their own songs on laser beams. Built by a group of rather creative professionals, the Curious Corner challenges with conundrums.
There are visits to inactive volcanoes, botanical gardens and markets, but I suggest a trip to the Black River Gorges National Park. Covering a highland area of 68km², the park’s humid forests offer picnic areas and trails in the rainforest. Many endemic plants and animals still occur in the park including the Mauritian flying fox, the white kestrel (which features on the country’s national carrier), pink pigeon (which is near extinction and after which the pretty vanilla-infused Pink Pigeon rum has been named), parakeet and cuckoo-shrike.
The gorges look on to Le Morne Brabant, a peninsula on the south-western tip, named after a 556m high basaltic rock with a sad history. In the early 19th century, the peninsula was a refuge for runaway slaves. After the abolition of slavery in Mauritius in 1835, a police expedition travelled there to inform the slaves they had been freed. Fearing capture, the slaves instead chose to leap to their deaths from the rock.
Another historic site is the Grand Bassin Sacred Lake in the heart of the island. Sacred to Hindus, it is an important pilgrimage site with a giant 33m-tall copper statue of Lord Shiva. According to legend, the lake is connected with the Ganges. There are shrines everywhere on the island – Hindu, Tamil and Christian – prettying the fertile countryside.
Mauritius is so much more than white sands, sunshine and azure warm waters. It’s a relatively quick flight from South Africa – five hours – for which the reward is a family-friendly destination that appeals to land-lovers and waterbabes alike. One&Only Le Saint Géran is hardly inexpensive, but for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, your money will be well spent.
l Georgina Crouth was hosted by One&Only Le Saint Geran and SAA Business Class.
If You Go...
One&Only Le Saint Geran: +230 401 1888
E-mail: reservations@ oneandonlylesaintgeran.com or visit www.oneandonlyresorts.com
See www.flysaa.com for details on flights to Mauritius
Georgina Crouth, Saturday Star