The people are wonderfully friendly, there are fantastic markets, particularly those selling typical African handicrafts, and there is a buzzing nightlife, offering great places to meet locals and expats alike. For those who followed English football in the 1990s, there is even the chance to visit Tony Yeboah at the hotel he now runs with his wife.
Of course, like most sub-Saharan African cities, there are annoyances and hassles, but these are mostly limited to traffic and over- crowding, and merely add to the experience. Around the city you can enjoy great beaches, in particular Bojo, or spend the day next to the idyllic Akosombo dam.
However, while Accra has its charms, to truly experience the country you must head away from the major cities.
West down the coast towards Cote d'Ivoire are lovely beaches, old colonial castles and stunning scenery. Stop off at Big Milly's Backyard, which is a fun and friendly hostel set against a stunning backdrop of beach and mountains, before heading down to Cape Coast, capital of the Central Region.
Originally founded by the Portuguese in the 14th century, this town has since passed through the hands of the British, Swedes, Danes and Dutch. It is also home to the World Heritage Cape Coast Castle, initially built by the Swedes for trade in timber and gold, and later used by the British in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Nowadays, it is home to a fascinating museum detailing its history, specifically regarding slavery.
Nearby is the beautiful Kakum National Park, with its canopy rope bridges, which I was assured are safer than they look. A stay at the nearby slightly run-down Hans Cottage Botel will afford you perhaps your only chance to spend the night at a hotel where crocodiles outnumber the guests.
To really experience the country, head up north, past Kumasi (the second city, and traditional Ashanti capital) towards Burkina Faso. There are so many places worth seeing, but two musts are Mole National Park and Paga. Both are a good trek from Accra but well worth the effort.
Mole, which interestingly is just a few kilometres from perhaps the oldest mosques in Western Africa, made entirely from mud, gives you a completely different safari experience from game reserves here. While the accommodation, which is limited to one basic hotel, is nothing special, watching the sunset and the numerous varieties of animals that come to drink at the crocodile-infested watering hole, while drinking the delicious local Star Beer, certainly is.
If you're lucky, the animals might even come a bit closer. Elephants drinking out of the swimming pool, or baboons causing havoc in the women's toilets are not uncommon.
The park is huge and there is no real infrastructure, so if you want to explore further then hiking followed by camping is the answer. With the chance to see hippos, it is certainly not an unattractive option, and a more daring alternative to being driven around Kruger National Park in an armoured 4x4. You won't see all the big five, but for an experience it certainly compares favourably.
Even further to the north, on the Burkina Faso border, is the bizarre and wonderful town of Paga, which must be the only place in the world where you can pull the tail of, or sit on a full-sized crocodile and live to tell the story. The crocodiles here are worshipped deities, ensuring they get a constant supply of plump chickens, which render them too fat and lazy to care. Women are even given the opportunity to climb a viewing tower with the priest, where they get the honour of lifting up their shirts and showing their breasts to these sacred animals, although there is a suspicion that this is for his benefit rather than the crocodiles'.
Ghana also has superb food. Accra is the best place for culinary delights and one can try local favourites such as delicious jolof rice and spicy fried chicken. However, if you want to treat yourself, Monsoon is an oasis of calm. All the food, including the vegetables, is imported from South Africa, and they offer dishes such as ostrich and warthog, in addition to beef or lamb, all perfectly cooked and served with great wines or cocktails. They have also recently opened a sushi bar next door.
The nightlife in the capital can also be lively. Camps Sports Bar and Restaurant is brilliant, with a weekly pub quiz and a karaoke night, and Tantra nightclub is always good fun.
Throughout the country the food continues to be delicious, although the butchering can be sub-standard due to the insistence on using machetes to joint even the smallest animals. Be aware that ordering half a guinea fowl, while delectable, is less meat and more bone than you might expect. Yet, the ubiquitous jolof rice (slightly spicy and flavoured with tomatoes) that accompanies almost every meal never gets boring, and the curry sauces that usually come with the meat are fantastic. Moti Mahal restaurant in Kumasi is home to the best butter chicken I have eaten.
The accommodation is in general cheap and cheerful, although Accra has a number of five-star hotels. In most other areas the choice will be limited, but always comfortable, usually with the option of en-suite and air-conditioning or fans, and with ever-friendly staff.
Often referred to as the pearl of Africa due to its relative stability compared with the rest of the region, last year Ghana was awarded the title "Second Least Failed State in Africa" after Mauritius by the US think-tank Fund for Peace. Having celebrated the 50th anniversary of its independence in 2007, the former British colony known as Gold Coast is now a stable and safe democracy.
While certainly not catering for those seeking luxury, Ghana is wonderful for the more adventurous traveller, as it has lots to offer. There is so much history, especially for those willing to delve beneath the surface, most notably with chilling reminders of the not-so-ancient slave trade, mainly in the form of basic concentration camps. On top of this, the people are genuinely warm, charming and fun and there is always plenty to keep you entertained.
- Flights from Cape Town start from about R8 000 with SAA. For more information, see www.flysaa.com or contact your local travel agent. For visa information, see www.touringghana.com