By Brendan Roane
Paradise lost? No, in fact it’s closer than you think. From a tree-climbing butterfly to Beach Boys, from spices to snorkelling and giant tortoises, Zanzibar’s accessibility makes it an attractive tropical island get-away.
The island has been in tourism overdrive since its government decided to focus on the industry in the 1980s.
In recent years, it has become a destination that offers South Africans a chance to experience tropical paradise for a relatively low cost and little travelling time.
Hotels have been popping up all over the island, many of which offer all-inclusive packages to South Africa.
Make an extra notch in your belt before you leave, as three meals a day plus drinks in the all-inclusive package will probably leave you a size bigger than when you left.
La Gemma dell’ Est hotel, along the north-western tip of the island, offers the opportunity to watch one of the most spectacular sunsets at the bar and restaurant built on a wharf that stretches out into the ocean.
Or, if you’re more of a sunrise person, hotels such as Dream of Zanzibar, along the eastern coast of the island, will offer an unforgettable experience.
The travel company which offers the all-inclusive deals at these magnificent hotels, AfricaStay, has chartered a weekly Mango flight to Zanzibar which departs every Tuesday.
These hotels seem a million miles away from checking in at a dark and chilly OR Tambo International at 5am, but a three-and-a-half hour flying time will get you to the small, sweltering passport control office of Abeid Amani Karume International Airport.
The island is a semi-autonomous neighbour of Tanzania and is located off the east coast of Africa, just north of the Tanzanian capital of Dar es Salaam. The majority of its population are Muslim and speak Kiswahili.
The distance between Zanzibar and Joburg is 2 500km, so the flight feels more like a domestic trip than an international one and you will soon be exchanging your jerseys and coffee for flip-flops and cocktails.
Three phrases to add to your vocabulary are pole-pole (Kiswahili for slow, or take it easy), hakuna matata (no worries) and asante sane (thank you very much).
Hearing the phrase, pronounced poh-lay poh-lay, reminds you that Joburg is a distant memory and you should take it easy and soak up the splendour that is all around.
Through flashes of green and brown as you travel along the narrow roads, people are seen reclining on benches and sitting on low walls or on the floor.
Shopkeepers and residents relax outside their businesses and homes and watch cars, scooters and bikes going past, occasionally lifting a hand to greet friends or tourists.
Although these scenes may offer photo opportunities, most locals are reluctant to be photographed.
Hotel staff and tour guides are extremely friendly and willing to help.
In fact, the only time the pole-pole attitude does not apply is when it comes to their service, as they are quick to notice any glass that is perilously close to empty.
“Hakuna matata” they will tell you as they place a fresh beverage down in front of you.
“Asante sana” you will probably reply, feeling chuffed that the songs from The Lion King have finally come in handy.
Meanwhile, on the beaches are groups of guys, collectively known as Beach Boys. They are the entrepreneurs who sell souvenirs and offer their services as guides and middle-men wherever needed.
If you don’t feel like an organised tour through the hotel, then Beach Boys are the men to call.
But you have to negotiate because, as with most wheeler-dealers, the thrill is in the deal.
Snorkelling:
The dhows, traditional sailing vessels, are a good way of travelling to smaller islands that are dotted around Zanzibar. They offer another way to soak up the beauty while cruising along at a surprisingly rapid pace through the blue and green waters of the Indian Ocean.
An example of this is a trip to Mnemba Island, where you can snorkel over a reef a few hundred metres from the shore.
“Pole-pole, slooooow,” instructs a crew member to people climbing on board his dhow, waving his palms downwards.
Splashing into those waters, even a burning throat from unintentionally downing a few pints of sea water through the snorkel doesn’t dampen the thrill of seeing the natural treasures of the reef.
The “eyes” of the sea urchins shine like brilliant diamonds, as the sun reflects off them, while dozens of fish zip in and out of crevices.
As our guides explained, even on a day of poor visibility you will still see sights that seem supernatural.
Upside down mushrooms, brains, plastic tubes and forests of thorn trees are some of the comparisons the reef’s structures conjure up as you glide along the surface of the water.
Often, you may break through a patch of murky water to find yourself in the middle of a shoal of sardines as they surround you like a platinum bubble.
As you swim around they seem to follow, keeping a little distance until at last the bubble bursts and they slink off into the distance.
The spice tour:
The spice tour is a micro-representation of Zanzibar’s economy, as tourism is the island’s number one industry, followed by spice exports.
Unlike the markets where you buy packed ingredients, this is a different experience in that you see the origins of the spices.
Strolling through the protected forest, you see the plants from which the different spices are sourced.
The guide explains how the different spices are grown and how they are used, including cooking, medicinal purposes, natural lipstick and aphrodisiacs. Many residents of the island believe ginger to be an aphrodisiac for men, while nutmeg offers the same magical properties for women.
“After you have this, you will have a nice talk,” jokes the guide.
The locals turn strips of palm leaves into skilfully woven neckties for the men, and rings, handbags and crowns for the women. All this in a matter of minutes as you amble through the dense spice forest.
An interesting character at the end of this tour is Khamisi Makame, known as “Butterfly”, who swings atop a 30m high palm tree and belts out his song, Jambo, Sowt Af-reeka (Welcome, South Africa)”.
Tourists and chickens languish in the shade of the palms, waiting for him to cut down coconuts which will feed both.
Like the majority of Zanzibar’s residents, Butterfly makes a living from tourism but is now, in his own words, “semi-retired” at age 43 and only climbs once a day for visiting tours.
Stone Town:
Zanzibar’s beauty and laid-back attitude hide its dark and violent past.
A visit to Stone Town, the hub of the capital Zanzibar City, reveals dungeons which were used to cage countless men, women and children, destined for a life of slavery.
The children were given to slave traders as commission, unbelievably, for a job well done.
A rusty chain nailed to the wall in the dungeon serves as a reminder of this sad fact. It is only visible today because of a tiny shaft of sunlight through small windows that were built later, a luxury not afforded the slaves.
Stone Town is a Unesco heritage site and gains its name from the buildings which are made exclusively from corral and lime stones.
British, Portuguese, French and Arabic architectural influences can be seen as you walk through the narrow streets of Stone Town.
Here, history meets modern times as you see many DIY electrical connections strung across windows and doors, while water leaks on to the wires from an intricately latticed balcony above.
Just outside Stone Town is Dr David Livingstone’s house, now a monument.
He was instrumental in signing a treaty with Britain to suppress the slave trade on the island in 1873.
Ironically, while negotiations were under way to abolish slavery, a prison was being built on the appropriately named Prison Island to house “rebel slaves” who had broken Islamic laws.
The current inhabitants of Prison Island, namely the Aldabra giant tortoises, are as old as the treaty that Livingstone signed.
One prehistoric-looking fellow shrinks into his shell as a tourist approaches. However, as his head is stroked he stretches out his neck, closes his eyes and raises himself up on “tippy-toes”.
About 30 of these animals laze about in a pond, only their massive shells make them visible above the brown water. Each shell has the tortoise’s age painted on it, one of which reads 138.
Gazing at these creatures and their pole-pole existence makes you realise how they encapsulate what the island is all about.
l Brendan Roane was a guest of the AfricaStay travel company and Mango Airlines for seven nights between April 9 and April 16.
If You Go...
l For the beer lovers:
At the all-inclusive hotels, all your drinks during your stay are on the house. A selection of local and neighbouring country beers, including Kilimanjaro, Safari, Serengeti, Tusker and Pilsner are available. They are fairly similar to beers available in South Africa, but the combination of a tropical sunset and a chilled beer on a humid evening make them taste all the more sweeter.
Ten things you will need:
1. A yellow fever certificate is needed at the airport.
2. Malaria tablets are important as Zanzibar falls in a malarial zone.
3. Insect repellent and long-sleeve shirts and trousers.
4. Foreign currency. It is probably best to take a mix of the local Zanzibar currency, Tanzanian shillings and US dollars. The rand is accepted at some places on the island, though you will not get a good exchange rate for it. At passport control in Zanzibar, you are also required to pay a visa charge of US$50.
5. If you need to wear suncream at the beach in South Africa, you will definitely need some on the island.
6. Especially for snorkelling, strong flip-flops or waterproof shoes are a must have.
7. A camera. Whether you are an amateur snapper or experienced photographer, there are endless photo opportunities.
8. A travel charger that specifies it can be used in Zanzibar, as many of the hotels only have adapters for European and American plugs.
9. There are many opportunities to laze about on the beach or by the pool, so take a book or three.
10. A small umbrella if you go in the rainy season. Although the rain never lasts long, it can bucket down during a short shower.
Links:
Travel companies
www.africastay.com
www.flymango.com
Travel Clinics
www.joburgdoctor.co.za
www.travelclinicrandburg.co.za
www.netcare.co.za (click on the treatments and facilities tab) - Saturday Star