Kasane, Botswana - Our boat putters into a bay on the Chobe’s southern shore. Ahead of us, a lone male elephant is doing his ablutions.
Suddenly, a maternal herd breaks from the trees and pours towards the water, babies trotting ahead unconcerned by the male’s irritation at their noisy arrival.
The animals wade into the stream directly in front of us. We sit silently watching, listening to the splash and slurp.
Around us, the mighty Chobe, still in spate, muscles towards its confluence with the Zambezi, 20km downstream.
Their merged waters then coil towards Victoria Falls to thunder into Batoka Gorge and on, only slacking their pace for Lake Kariba. These rivers are the arteries of a gigantic transfrontier “peace park” called Kaza (Kavango- Zambezi), alleviating the overpopulation of elephants along these banks and transforming tourism in southern Africa.
Our group had flown into Kasane, Botswana, with Airlink to get a sense of tourism growth in the area and to see how the development of Kaza was progressing.
First, we were to spend a couple of days in the Chobe area, then drive to Victoria Falls, the region’s hub. Kaza incorporates vast tracts of land around the two river basins. Proposed as the most ambitious of Africa’s “peace parks”, the presidents of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe signed a treaty that formally established Kaza on August 18, 2011.
It incorporates 36 national parks, game reserves, community conservancies and game management areas.
The idea is ultimately to create a free flow of people and animals across borders. Already there’s a Kaza visa, whereby tourists pay one fee of $50 (R714) for access to Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Our first days in the region were spent at Ngoma, a gorgeous lodge set on a ridge with endless views of the Chobe floodplain.
It has lookout decks and a splash pool surrounded by hoary-skinned baobabs overlooking a busy waterhole. Each day we explored the river in open 4x4s or boats. We trawled the south bank, which teams with wildlife, especially elephant and buffalo.
As far as the eye could see, animals were coming to drink, cavorting in the shallows or crossing to Namibia.
Kaza’s great herds were clearly having no trouble with passport control or customs.
Next, we drove to Zimbabwe and checked into the grand Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
From there we visited the construction site of the town’s new international airport, due to open next month.
This will be a tourism game changer and see a number of long-haul airlines flying directly into the falls using large aircraft such as Boeing 747s and Airbus A340s.
More hotels are coming online in the region to meet the expected demand (Kaza Safari Lodge in June, Chobe Water Villas in December 2015).
The famous waterfall – and various activities associated with it – remains Kaza’s biggest drawcard.
Given Zambezi’s floodwaters, white-water rafting was out of the question during our trip.
Standing at Livingstone’s statue and peering into Devil’s Cataract, the sheer volume of water hurtling into the gorge was enough to stun the viewer. Walking in the adjacent rain forest was monsoonal and we were soon drenched despite our raincoats. But those in our group bent on adrenalin were not without other opportunities.
Bungee jumping and bridge swinging are perfect activities for the insane. While I sipped a docile G&T, the more deluded among us leapt off the edge of Batoka Gorge in mock suicide attempts.
Their delighted screaming didn’t even vaguely tempt me to join them. Next up, we boarded a helicopter to soar above the falls. We floated over the misty torrent, banking in dreamy arabesques, all of us wearing Cheshire grins and snapping away with cameras and smartphones.
Vic Falls has always prided itself on alternative wildlife experiences, such as “meet and greets” with larger mammals.
Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust is involved in various conservation projects and helps rehabilitate animals.
We visited their centre for close encounters with a group of elephants. I was able to feed and stroke the gentle giants, as well as spend some quality time with an indulgent male cheetah called Sylvester. On our last evening we went cruising in the Zambezi Explorer, the poshest river boat on the water.
Sipping cocktails and nibbling crocodile sosaties, we watched the swirling river which, like the Chobe and Okavango, are the great watery braids that stitch together Kaza. They are its lifeblood and focal point for animals and humans in this giant ecosystem. Kaza still has a way to go, but most of the elements are already in place. In time, hopefully, the entire region will become integrated and the greatest park on Earth will come into its own.
If You Go...
l How to get there: Airlink is a regional feeder airline and flies directly from Johannesburg to Kasane daily.
Call 011 978 1111, e-mail [email protected], web www.flyairlink.com.
l Where to stay: Ngoma Safari Lodge occupies an idyllic location in Chobe Forest Reserve. Each luxurious suite has its own pool and views to die for. Contact Africa Albida Tourism on +263 134 3211, e-mail [email protected], web africaalbidatourism.com.
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is an imposing thatched lodge overlooking an active waterhole.
Its deck is one of the finest places for sundowners in Vic Falls. Don’t miss the lunch-time vulture restaurant where chunks of meat are thrown to squadrons of birds that descend like the Luftwaffe.
Within the grounds of the lodge are the Safari Club and Safari Suites for top-end pampering.
Dinner at The Boma is a must (live music, drumming and a sumptuous buffet). Contact Africa Albida Tourism (above).
l Activities: Wild Horizons Wildlife Trust rescues animals in need and cares for them at their centre outside Vic Falls. Call +263 134 2004, e-mail [email protected], www.wildhorizonstrust.org
Bonisair Helicopters offers breathtaking scenic flights over the falls. Call +263 808 0029, e-mail [email protected], web www.bonisair.com.
For various cruises on the Zambezi River contact Zambezi Explorer Cruise Company on +263 134 2475, e-mail [email protected], web www.zambeziexplorer.com
Gorge swinging, zip-lining and various other high-wire adrenalin activities are provided by Wild Horizons. Call +263 134 4571, e-mail [email protected], www.wildhorizons.co.za.
Cape Times