Maputo - The immigration officers joked as they stamped our passports, and the minute we crossed the border at Kosi Bay a world still unchanged by rampant tourism greeted us.
Well-known Durban restaurateur/entrepreneur Bill Budd (of Gringo’s, Legends and Prawn Shack fame) met us at the border.
Wanting everyone to slip quickly into the atmosphere, he cracked open beers and switched on LM Radio, which brought a rush of memories – of when South Africans tuned in for relaxed listening and especially the Top 20 Hit Parade on Friday nights.
Along the sandy road, meandering through the drowsy, heat-baked bush, we came across an anomaly – a lonely black female figurine, with curvaceous body, standing in the middle of the scrub. Further investigation revealed she was a shop mannequin, perhaps waiting for someone to dress her. How she got there is a mystery. A good travel mantra is to expect the unexpected.
By the time we reached Ponta do Ouro, the first town in southern Mozambique, our saliva glands were working overtime in anticipation of the chicken peri-peri at Fernando’s restaurant/bar.
There several holidaymakers were already in the R&R (rum and raspberry) spirit of things. This is somewhat of a national drink, and tankards were soon plopped in front of us, along with the chicken, salad and slap chips which were dispatched with relish.
Cardiologists would frown at the salt/oil content, but who cares.
Nkumbe Wildlife Estate in Ponta Malongane – our destination for the next three nights – is the brainchild of Durban developer Graham Levy.
Tucked away under waterberry and other indigenous trees is Nkumbe Tented Camp, with spacious, comfortable en-suite tents (even the mattresses are a lure to lie prone).
Leaving the tent sides turned up allows the breeze to flow freely through the mosquito netting on three sides. For those who crave privacy, the flaps can be dropped.
At night the bush orchestra is composed of crickets, monkeys squabbling, the shriek of bushbabies, and trumpeter hornbills. All are pitch perfect and not too loud.
A large fully equipped communal kitchen/dining room/ lounge, with a cupboard and fridge for each of the five tents, makes it possible to cater for yourself. There is also a pool to cool off in.
Food is part of any holiday, and at the Marula Shak restaurant on Nkumbe estate Bill is at the helm, ensuring all kinds of tasty treats.
Tempt your palate with the likes of spicy Thai, lemongrass, peppadew or beetroot pesto; decadent prawn bisque soup; baby prawn bunny chows; samoosas; peri-peri chicken livers; chicken salad, a Thai-style braai where veggies are cooked in broth while slivers of beef and pork sizzle on a central metal tower.
Round all this off with Tipo Tigers, which combine condensed milk with rum.
Breakfast could be fruit salad and yoghurt jazzed up with seeds (I added moringa powder – from the tree – and came home with a small supply to boost my health); hearty omelettes, tasty Portuguese bread with cold meats and cheeses.
A breakfast at Tarragon restaurant in Ponta do Ouro offers unusual combinations rustled up by its award-winning chef.
A drive around Nkumbe – where it is possible to own a luxury cottage – produced impala, zebra and a shy red duiker diving for cover. You can be active or let time slide by.
We woke up at 5.30am one morning to go swimming with dolphins. Lady Luck smiled benignly: the sea was calm and crystal clear as we set out with guides from The Dolphin Centre.
During our briefing, we were instructed to slip gently into the sea from the boat so as not to disturb these playful creatures; but when the moment arrived, sheer excitement had us tumbling in without dignity, flippers flailing.
The dolphins were more interested in pursuing their own activities, so our sightings were brief but memorable.
Seeing a pod swim determinedly in your direction, sweep past almost within touching distance, dive beneath you and cavort on the surface was a sight to treasure. On a shallow reef, green turtles and a leatherback added their own thrill to the moment.
Stroll on the lovely, sprawling beaches, hang out at one of the many colourful baracas (bars) and absorb the atmosphere. Some of these overlook the beach, others an inland lake – particularly pleasant as the sunset paints the waters and defines the small reed islands.
Jack’s Barefoot Baraca has come up with something novel – tee off and practise your golf swing on a dune. Small boys scour the bush below to find the balls and return them to the bar – one way of making a buck.
After dinner one night we headed to the “Star Pit”, where we lay on the dunes and watched the sickle moon and stars.
We also had an opportunity to get some insight into the lives of expats who have chosen this area for its laid-back, secure lifestyle.
Visiting them in Zitundo, we learned about the local culture, visited a plant nursery, checked out some of the local fishermen's boats and absorbed the atmosphere amid some of the rather run-down Portuguese villas.
Having your own 4x4 makes it easier, but transfers can be arranged from the border (R100pp one way), as well as to Ponta do Oura (R100pp return) and Ponta Malongane (R50pp return).
Contact: Nkumbe 079 887 5359; e-mail: [email protected]; www.nkumbe.co.za
Marula Shak: 083 303 4746; e-mail: [email protected]; www.shak.co.za
The Dolphin Centre e-mail: [email protected]
Myrtle Ryan, Sunday Tribune