Alison Foat
Bangkok - What’s to like about a metropolis of about 8 million people that is continuously humid, congested and manic? In a nutshell, everything – it’s vibrant, intoxicating and invigorating.
Bangkok was founded in 1782 as a small trading post along a bend in the Chao Praya river. Known also as the City of Angels and the Venice of the East, it was voted the World’s Best City for 2011 by Travel + Leisure, only just beating our very own Cape Town, as well as Tokyo, Paris and other top global destinations. It was my second visit there and with 10 days to explore, I got to know it a whole lot better and love it a whole lot more.
Top tourist spots include the Grand Palace, the many temples, the floating flower markets, Chinatown, Khao San Road, Lumphini Gardens, the massive Chatuchak market and more.
If, like me, you’re averse to (expensive) organised tours and like exploring on your own terms, getting around is a breeze on the slick Skytrain (BTS), Metro (MRT) and metered taxis or tuk tuks. A highlight was taking a tourist ferry from the Central Pier up the Chao Praya, the river that flows through the capital. It gave a different perspective to the city and a different view of the haphazard urban landscape. A tour guide shares about the sights and tells you which attractions can be seen at each stop. I hopped off at Pier 8 and walked to the Wat Pho temple to view the impressive 45m Reclining Buddha. For an extra 3 baht (R1), you can take a boat across the river to the magnificent Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun.
What captivated me most on this trip was design. From architecture to clothing, furniture, interiors, exteriors and food, Bangkok impressed me on every level. I started at the Bangkok Arts and Cultural Centre, a home to the contemporary arts that buzzes with people of all ages and has a cafe, restaurants, bookshops, galleries and an art library. Artists gather there to network, exhibit and share resources and ideas. Shopping here is fun too, with unusual products such as chic recycled handbags from the Green Thai Product Shop and gorgeous handmade jewellery.
When lunch beckons, have the best sushi salad at Hof Eat & Art and finish with a latte at Gallery Drip Coffee.
Jim Thompson’s House was unforgettable, a complex of six teak buildings that he purchased and brought to the present location to create his dream home. Thompson was an American architect-turned-entrepreneur, who famously revived the silk trade in Thailand – he disappeared mysteriously in the Malaysian jungle in 1967.
There are day and night mar-kets aplenty in Bangkok and my favourite has to be the Talad Rot Fai weekend market, by far the coolest of them all. Exceptional retro furniture, antique collectables and vintage clothing can be found here. Start with an ice cold Chang beer at Rod’s Café and then go a-wandering and give yourself at least three hours as there’s so much to see.
Vanilla Garden, in upmarket Ekkamai, is one of my favourite hangouts, a tranquil space in the middle of chaotic Bangkok.
It houses a bookshop and two restaurants, the Royal Vanilla Chinese Restaurant and the Vanilla Crepe Cafe . The latter, with its well-styled interior, serves pancakes and curious and delicious Japanese desserts such as daifuku and dorayaki, both firsts for me.
The best mall in Bangkok has to be Siam Centre, a shrine to design by brilliant Thai couturiers, clothing designers and international brands. Shops make a big deal about their window displays and interiors and the result is an innovative environment that attracts a stylish set, discerning shoppers and those who just want to people-watch and soak up the atmosphere.
There are two particularly good eateries at the Siam Centre – Sukishi and the Greyhound café.
As far as food in general goes in Bangkok, the choices are endless and Thai food is great.
Eat at a makeshift pavement restaurant. If you see the locals there, it’s usually a sign that the food is good – and don’t forget to try the fresh fruit shakes.
For great coffee try Roast and the Stockholm Espresso Bar in Thonglor, and the best bar by far is Sofa in Ekkamai.
For Western food, we loved Wine Connection at K Village in Sukhamvit, Dean and Deluca in Silom and the Italian restaurant Sole Mio in Thonglor. Be warned, though – a cup of good coffee and a glass of quite average wine are expensive, at about 120 and 150 baht respectively.
If you are travelling with teens, Siam Paragon will keep them busy with its megastores, huge multi-cuisine food court, world-class aquarium, Madame Tussaud’s and the vast Cineplex movie house where you can watch 4D movies.
My grand finale to this holiday was Songkran, the Thai New Year that traditionally happens between April 12 and 15 each year.
The locals celebrate by throwing water on people to symbolise the washing away of bad things, and by smearing the faces of passers-by with powder paint, as a type of blessing.
We armed ourselves with water guns and celebrated with masses of people in Silom Road. Go big or go home they said, so we did. Happy Thai New Year to you!
If You G0...
Getting there: Thai Airways, JHB-BKK direct
Rate of exchange: About R1 to 3 Thai baht
Best time to travel: between December and March (April is the hottest month)
Skytrain (BTS) day ticket: 130 baht
Tourist ferry: day ticket: 150 baht; one way 40 baht
Entry into Jim Thompson, Wat Pho: 100 baht
4D Movie ticket: 350 baht
Madame Tussaud’s: 8000 baht
Don’t forget: mosquito repellent - Weekend Argus