Manila - The word “diversity” gets tossed around a bit when the Philippines are described, which makes sense when you consider that the nation is made up of more than 7 000 islands. Yet even within that vast archipelago, there are islands that contain a nation’s worth of diversity on their own.
Nowhere exemplifies this more than Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines, and the fourth most-populous island in the world (after Java, Honshu in Japan, and Britain). At the north end of the nation, Luzon defies easy categorisation, be it by geography, linguistics, culture or politics. It is emphatically Asian, yet most people are Catholic – and the cuisine across the island reflects Spanish and American flavours.
This month, Luzon has gained a gateway that circumvents the sprawl and traffic of Manila. Emirates has begun the first long-haul flights to Clark International Airport, once part of one of the largest military installations in the world.
Travellers taking advantage of the new flights from Dubai to Clark are likely at least to pass through Manila. That’s not such a bad thing; as chaotic, congested and smoky as it gets, the capital and its surrounding sprawl and suburbs contains the country’s best nightlife, a great diversity of food, and excellent shopping in upmarket areas such as Makati and Quezon City. Manila is also the best location to learn about the nation’s remarkable history; Intramuros – the old city, within the Spanish-built walls – resonates with intrigue and tragedy.
People say the Philippines spent 400 years in a convent and 50 in Hollywood – a reference to the twin colonial dominions of Spain and the US. You get a real sense of this once you enter Luzon’s towns and villages, where life revolves around two institutions: the local Catholic church and the karaoke bar.
Filipino street culture is infectious, from the sound of Bruno Mars’s music roaring out of a pub to the rainbow flash of a passing jeepney – the local public transport option. It is possible to combine these experiences in Manila with Jeepney Tours (jeepneytours.com); the “bus” comes complete with its own karaoke machine on tours costing from 3 000 pesos (R730).
The rainy Zambales coast, west of Manila, is tropical with a jungle. Dark, looming mountains hem green fields, and tiny farming and fishing villages abut stretches of sand and small family-run resorts.
The north-west coast runs from San Fernando, a bustling beach town that boasts consistent surfing breaks, to the deep blue waters and sunny sands of Pagudpud. As you cross into the north-east coast of Luzon, the land gets wild and sparsely populated. The beautiful Cordillera region is studded with rice terraces. The cool air is a welcome break from the humidity of the plains, and trekking and backpacking opportunities abound.
Luzon’s south-east corner is a crooked arm of bays, inlets, jungle and beaches. The university town of Naga serves as a good base for further exploration. You can hike under limestone cliffs in the Caramoan Peninsula, or dive among the whale sharks on the south coast at Donsol.
The eighth wonder of the world is what the Filipinos call the rice terraces of the mountains of North Luzon. The terraces cover an area half the size of Wales, they are 2 000 years old and their irrigation systems are so clever they haven’t been significantly altered during the ensuing two millennia. The terraces are perhaps the most beautiful example of landscaping in the world.
The easiest town in which to base yourself is Banaue; Uyami’s Green View Lodge (ugreenview.wordpress.com) offers rooms with a view of the terraces for 900 pesos (R206). The front desk can also help arrange guides into the mountains.
Pagudpud sits tucked away in the far north-west corner of Luzon, but it’s worth the day-long bus ride from Manila or the Clark area. This is a buttery spread of sand fronting a royal blue bay. Relax, swim or cycle around (rental bicycles are everywhere), or go touring with the friendly folk at Wen! Travel & Tours, who will get you out on sand dunes and under some blue waterfalls.
Almost every post-colonial South-east Asian nation flaunts a preserved town that blends European charm with tropical lassitude and attitude, and Vigan is the Philippines’ version. While the preserved area is small, it’s adorable: cobblestone streets are stuffed with shops selling crafts, and verandas are shaded by windows paned with capiz shells (a type of oyster).
Vigan’s homes were originally built by the Spanish, but were subsequently remodelled by Chinese merchants. The resulting hybrid architecture – wide plazas, sloping roofs and dark wood – is striking. One of the better examples is the old home of former president Elpidio Quirino, the Syquia Mansion, at the corner of Salcedo and Quirino Boulevard. For 20 pesos (about R5), you have access to a lovingly preserved (if dusty) remnant of Old Vigan. Spend the night in a historic home at the Villa Angela (villangela. com). For 2 500 pesos (about R600) you can sleep in a double room amid colonial décor; breakfast is included.
North of the provincial capital of San Fernando, San Juan and the barangay (village) of Urbiztondo are surfers’ paradises. You’re not getting Tahiti-sized waves here; these two towns are where beginners learn to board. The waves are gentle and consistent, and the sea bottom is sandy.
A good place to start is Sebay Surf Central (sebaysurfcentral.com) or Little Surfmaid (littlesurfmaidresort.com); both “resorts” (collections of friendly chalets rather than five-star all-inclusives) offer surfing lessons for about 400 pesos (R95). Sebay offers clean double rooms for 1 600 pesos (R380); Surfmaid for 1 525 pesos (R365). – The Independent
If You Go...
Travel Essentials
Getting there: Emirates (emirates.com) now flies from Dubai to Clark.
There are numerous private bus lines around the country; Victory Liner (victoryliner.com) is a solid bet. Clark is close to the Dau Terminal in Angeles City, from which buses run throughout North Luzon, accessing San Fernando and, by extension, colonial Vigan.
You can access Baguio, the gateway to the rice terraces of the Cordillera, from the airport via Partas bus (partas.com.ph); the trip takes about six hours and costs about R70. Buses leave Clark airport at 5pm.
Where to stay: Luzon has accommodation for all budgets. Vigan is packed with high-end spots with mid-range prices like the Hotel Salcedo de Vigan (hotelsalcedode vigan.com). Doubles are 2 728 pesos (R667), and breakfast is included.
In Pagudpud, Apo Idon (apoidon.com) is a lovely resort that overlooks the beach, with rooms for 4 000 pesos (R969), complemented by the on-site restaurant, which is great value.
You’ll probably pass through Manila. When you do, consider heading to the suburb of Quezon City to stay at the Stone House (stonehouse.ph). It has the social vibe and easy ambience of a hostel, and the modern interior you’d expect of a hip boutique. Doubles start at 1 176 pesos (R286).