Biarritz, France - It’s November, and Iâ’m sitting on a seaside terrace, enjoying an alfresco lunch of succulent fresh fish, fries and a fruity glass of white wine - and I’m not even wearing a coat.
But since the restaurant - La Plancha in Bidart - is just a few miles south of Biarritz, one of the world’s most glamorous resorts, I am wearing my Ray-Bans, bling-fest earrings and a generous slick of Chanel lipstick.
To be honest, compared with the chic and slim French women gliding in and out of La Plancha, each with a cute dog under one arm, I still look tres scruffy. But it’s the thought that counts.
Think of Biarritz, on the Bay of Biscay in south-west France, and the memory retrieves images of handsome European blue-bloods and Hollywood royalty sipping cocktails and cavorting by a pool.
Still at the heart of all this glitz and glamour is the Hotel du Palais Imperial Resort & Spa, standing in splendid isolation by La Grande Plage.
Originally built as a holiday palace by Napoleon III, grandson of Bonaparte, for his empress, Eugenie du Montijo, it’s been a hotel since 1893. Frank Sinatra, Ernest Hemingway, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and Coco Chanel are just some of the famous people who have stayed there in the past.
Staff at Hotel du Palais are far too discreet to disclose recent guests. During my visit, private jet-loads of well-off Russians were roaming around as Biarritz played host to a glitzy ball.
A weekend of indulgence here should start in the massive Imperial Spa, which has a fabulous indoor pool.
In 1858, French perfume house Guerlain was chosen by Empress Eugenie to create an eau de toilette, and for 120 euros (about R1 400), you can experience it during a 50-minute Guerlain Imperial Massage.
And if your hair looks past its best after a spot of surfing in the ocean, the Imperial Beauty Deep Embellishment treatment, which costs between 120 and 180 euros, at the on-site Leonor Greyl Hair Care Institute should sort it.
After all, you must look your best for dinner in the Michelin-star Villa Eugenie restaurant. In fact, with its grand chandeliered Imperial Bar, 150 elegant rooms and suites, and classy service, the Hotel du Palais makes you want to dress up.
Fascinatingly, you can learn how the authentic furniture and furnishings are kept looking tip-top on a visit to the hotel’s workshops. Renovating just one of the rooms costs between 90 000 and 350 000 euros, we learn.
There are plenty of tempting boutiques in Biarritz, should your own wardrobe need an overhaul - or why not pop over to Spain? The border is just 30 minutes away by car. While you are there, you could learn about Basque culture at the San Telmo Museum, housed in a 16th Century convent in the middle of picturesque San Sebastian.
Back in Biarritz, we stopped for hot chocolate at Miremont - the grand cafe dates from 1872 and was a favourite of King Edward VII, who also stayed at the Hotel du Palais.
Energy levels topped up, we went for a long walk along the seafront, past the splendid Art Deco casino. Many of those we passed were wearing bling. And that was just the dogs.
Classic Biarritz View Rooms at Hotel du Palais start from £323 a night, including breakfast. Visit belmond.com or call 0845 077 2222. - Mail on Sunday