London - Covent Garden has long been the boring cousin of neighbouring Soho for entertainment and dining.
London's Soho is lush and louche, with drinking dens, edgy clubs, and restaurants where a man (or woman) may spend the day lost in thought or an alcoholic haze. Covent Garden welcomes tourists and families, and chains serving pasta and burgers.
Well, that's the general idea. Things are changing. Soho is cleaning up and Covent Garden is growing up, if not exactly getting down and dirty. Here are a dozen restaurants to try.
Clos Maggiore
This is one of the two most romantic restaurants in London, an accolade it shares with La Poule au Pot. Clos Maggiore also has a quite remarkable wine list. Awards for 2014 include Wine Spectator Grand Award, Imbibe Wine List of the Year UK. Fortunately, the French cooking of chef Marcellin Marc holds its own and the service is friendly and attentive. If you are on a budget, there are lunch and pre-theatre menus. +44-20-7379-9696
Order: Lemongrass-poached wild turbo
Barrafina
Let me make this easy: Barrafina is my favourite place to eat in Covent Garden. There's no phone line and no reservations at this tapas bar, so come early or late to try some of Spain's finest produce in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. A blackboard lists specials of the day but you are also good with the regular menu, featuring a bunch of things you are likely to want to eat. These include crab croquetas that are mini- volcanoes of molten fish. The wine list may also detain you. No phone.
Order: Milk-fed lamb's kidneys
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
I haven't tasted better French food in London than at Joel Robuchon. Settle in at the counter of the ground-floor room, which looks like a Ginza bar, and you can order several small plates, each as brilliant as the next. The prices are high at both. Opting for a budget lunch menu -- admittedly with two glasses of wine -- my bill was 81 pounds. I am not looking forward to a discussion over my expenses. +44-20-7010-8600
Order: Mashed potato (seriously)
Green Man & French Horn
This former pub serves gutsy food from the Loire Valley such as rabbit and pistachio terrine and pork belly with wild mushrooms and mogette beans. The prices are low, especially at lunchtime or pre-theatre, when three courses cost 16.50 pounds (about R300) and a glass of wine 4 pounds. Green Man is from the team behind Terroirs and Brawn, bistros that are known for simple dishes that are full of flavour. +44-20-7836-2645
Order: Black pudding, Pot au feu vegetables
Lima Floral
Virgilio Martinez is one of the greatest Peruvian chefs and works wonders at his Central restaurant in Lima. In London, Lima Floral features colourful and attractive plates that highlight Peruvian ingredients and cooking, but the flavours are more muted for an international audience. It's best to stick with a selection of starters, such as crudo mar, sea bream ceviche, and leche de tigre. +44-20-7240-5778
Order: Pisco sour -- several
Delaunay
This central European restaurant belongs to the same owners as the Wolseley. It shares that establishment's quietly attentive service and understated glamour in a smaller and less- frenetic room. It's a favourite of the West End theatre crowds - actors and audience alike - and feels like a classic, although it opened less than three years ago. The Delaunay is inexpensive for London and tables are much in demand, so it is wise to book early.
Order: Wiener schnitzel
Mishkin's
This small and noisy venue serves the kind of Jewish comfort food you might order at Katz's Deli in New York. Dishes include chicken kreplach soup and pickled herring with beets tartare. Mishkin's, which belongs to the Polpo group, bills itself as being about the fun as much as the food. Translation: Expect low prices and informal service from heavily tattooed waiters.
Order: Reuben on rye
The Ivy
This restaurant has a lustrous history as a favourite of actors and other celebrities, even as rivals Chiltern Firehouse and the Club nip at its heels. Those two might attract the stars, but I had my best meal ever at the Ivy this month. The service was as professional as I expected and the food better. The place will close in January for a refurb, so go soon or try the Ivy Market Grill, which has just opened.
Order: Roasted Devonshire chicken
Flesh & Buns
This noisy basement canteen is based on Japanese Izakayas, drinking establishments serving food with enough heft and flavour to stand up to plenty of alcohol. This venue is the creation of Ross Shonhan, former executive chef at Zuma. Flesh & Buns is aimed at young diners whose appetites are bigger than their incomes. The specialty is steamed buns filled with meat or fish.
Order: Salmon teriyaki
Joe Allen
This subterranean diner is underground in more ways than one. It's hidden on a quiet street and the signature burger doesn't even appear on the menu. You have to know to ask for it. Joe Allen first opened in January 1977 and ever since has been a favourite of the theatre crowd. The bare brick walls are adorned with posters of musicals and plays.
Order: The burger, of course
Rules
This game restaurant was established in 1798, and it's to everyone's credit that it has kept up the standards over the years, shunning the temptation to relax into being a tourist joint. (The service and food had dropped a notch when I visited this month: Let's hope that was a glitch.) Rules is known for traditional British fare served in cluttered and charming rooms. There's a hidden bar upstairs if you fancy a snifter.
Order: Rib of beef for two
Balthazar
The London outpost of the famous New York brasserie is an almost exact replica. Owner Keith McNally got a critical mauling when he opened Balthazar last year and yet the place is still packed. It's easy to understand why. The menu is laden with popular dishes, the cocktails are excellent, and there is a real buzz. The food can be uneven but that need not matter if you're having a good time. I'd happily spend an afternoon or an evening here.
Order: Duck Shepherd's Pie
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