Emerald isle

Published Apr 21, 2008

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The tar in the little lane is glistening, but of the previous night's rain, there's no sign and the sky in the early morning light is a soft blue. At the top of a gentle green rolling hill, I stop - grateful for a break in my run - and take in the scenery.

The land I survey - around Upper Lough Erne in County Fermanagh in Northern Ireland - is one of lakes and meandering rivers.

But, of course, we Irish would never describe it in such a mundane way.

Fermanagh, according to our legend, was once a vast dry plain. There in its centre sat a magic well, which was covered to prevent its waters bubbling over. Even in those times of yore, we could be a romantic lot and so it was that two young lovers, running away and eloping, happened upon the well.

They toasted their love with water from the well and, wrapped up in each other, left - without covering the well. The waters then bubbled over, and continued doing so for hundreds of years, creating the lakes of Lough Erne which stretch for 80km across the county.

Why worry about facts when a good story can be told? Why take the straight road when you can wander all over the place?

That's the way we Irish are… I ponder the legend as I look out across the lough.

On a far hillside, slow moving greyish-white blobs resolve themselves into sheep, while on the lough a bewhiskered old man cuts the outboard motor on his boat and drifts, fishing rods at the ready.

When he sees me, he waves. Johannesburg-suspicious, I glance nervously around to see where his gesture is aimed. It's at me, I realise, and wave back, more than a little self-consciously.

That's how it is with many people here in Fermanagh, where my family roots lie. I am back to sort out a wee bit of family business to do with the old Seery land - and I am not surprised I feel some emotional tug, even though I was not born here and even though I've only ever visited once before.

What surprises me about Fermanagh, 20 years after my last visit, is just how much of a good tourist destination it is.

Last time we were here, there wasn't much tourism, as the British Army patrolled the border areas in the times of "The Troubles". More than three years since peace finally came to Northern Ireland, there is little sign of the previous tension.

The concrete pillboxes and blast protection walls and police road blocks have gone.

The border now effectively no longer exists - the only way you notice is that the speed limit signs suddenly change from miles per hour to kilometres per hour. These days, Fermanagh is hugely popular with local tourists - especially from Belfast, which is just a two-hour drive away.

Yet, the friendly people at the Fermanagh Lakeland Tourism office in Enniskillen tell me, they haven't yet started to see large numbers of foreign tourists.

That is a pity because the county has so much to offer, either by itself or as part of a touring itinerary for Northern Ireland.

Many South Africans do visit Ireland, but it is mainly the well-travelled, and well-publicised, tourist destinations in the South which draw us.

The North, though, is a fascinating place, because it has the hundreds of years of history underlaying the recent, more violent time of The Troubles; but at the same time it has natural beauty and virtually everything a tourist would want.

Fermanagh is the place to go if you like the outdoors or are a water sports enthusiast. Lough Erne and its attendant lakes and river systems offer a host of water-borne activities.

Fishing is probably first and foremost among them, the county playing host to significant numbers of local and European sports fishermen and being the venue for a number of angling competitions. The area caters for both fly and reel fishers, with a range of species available, from salmon and wild brown trout to trout raised in fisheries, as well as bream, perch and tench. One of the most appealing things about fishing, to me anyway (as a non-enthusiast) is that you get to commune with nature.

A fine view

And the peaceful waterways of Fermanagh are one of the best places to do that.

Messing about in boats is also something for which the county is famous, because it boasts 700km of navigable waterways. So, you can rent a cabin cruiser, or a houseboat and use those as a base to explore.

Or, if you're more energetic or adventurous, you can really put your oar in and go exploring by canoe. Conditions range from challenging to laid back and serene, to suit moods and experience levels.

Paddlers can camp overnight on islands, stay at B&Bs or book self-catering accommodation.

Canoeing can take you across the border into the Republic of Ireland, because the Lough Erne waterways link directly into rivers and tributaries of the Shannon river and you can navigate that famous waterway right down to the sea at Limerick.

One of the best ways to explore - again, if you've a wee bit of the explorer in you - is by foot and Fermanagh has come to be acknowledged as one of the best walking and hiking destinations in Ireland.

Walks and hikes are graded in terms of difficulty and the different scenery - ranging from typical Irish country and village prettiness through to the wildness of the high moors - means the exercise will deliver its own rewards.

If you're a bird watcher, there are plenty of sites around the county where you can add examples to your "lifetime list" - although, be warned: there don't seem to be as many birds in Europe as we are used to in Africa, so you'll have to exercise more patience.

Golfers are also well catered for, as are cyclists and those keen on equestrian pursuits - and if you fancy a bit of water-skiing or even surfing, you can surely be accommodated. In a physical sense, the county also has some unique attractions, including the Marble Arch Caves European Geopark, where visitors travel on electric boats along an underground river under a huge cavern system.

Of course, Ireland wouldn't be Ireland if there weren't sites of historical importance. All over Fermanagh, from the town of Enniskillen (the Isle of Kathleen) to border settlements of Belleek and all points in between, are historic castles and manor houses. Chief among them are the magnificent Florence Court, Enniskillen Castle and the ethereal ruins of several old monastic sites, like the one on Devenish Island, founded by Saint Molaise in the 6th century.

Fermanagh is also home to the world-famous Belleek Pottery, which produces fine ceramics and pottery and which has just celebrated its 150th anniversary.

There are also various other cultural places worth visiting, like the Sheelin Lace Museum, which houses 400 exhibits of Irish lace dating from 1850 to 1900.

Or, you can while away the time in The Buttermarket in Enniskillen, which is a restored 19th century market centre, which now houses workshops and studio galleries. After chatting with the friendly people at the Fermanagh Tourist Information Centre, I would suggest that, if you're wanting to visit Ireland, try something different. Try Northern Ireland.

Plan to visit Belfast and explore the city which has shed its violent image but where you can visit the places which made the headlines in the past. Explore the Titanic Museum in the city (Belfast was the place the famous liner was built) and the newly-built marina and waterfront development.

Check out the various stunning sights in the northern part of Northern Ireland, including the world-famous Giant's Causeway.

But then, head down to Fermanagh for a little relaxation - if that's your mood - or a little adventure and exercise. Fermanagh Lakeland Tourism's slogan is, simply, "Tell your own story".

And, in this beautiful, quiet part of Ireland, you can do just that.

If you go...

- Getting there: Flights into Belfast regularly from London and a number of European cities. Book in advance because, if you don't, you'll pay top rates. Also visit www.discoverireland.com for more info.

- Getting around: The best way to thoroughly explore is by car. Opt for the smaller vehicles. They are cheaper, and easier to navigate around the narrow Irish roads - and they're more economical (petrol costs about R18 a litre!). My Group A car, rented through a Budget partner company, cost R1 200 (paid in SA), plus a further £15 a day for no-excess additional insurance and about £60 for petrol. They drive on the left in Ireland, as we do here and in the UK and speeds are marked in miles an hour (50mph or 80km/h, and occasionally 60mph, or 100km/h, on main roads and 30mph, or 50km/h, in towns and villages).

- Accommodation: I stayed in the excellent Killyhevlin Hotel, about 3km outside Enniskillen and situated on the shores of Upper Lough Erne. A large establishment, modern in amenities and old style in service, the Killyhevlin is one of the top hotels in the province. If you go at the right time (and not during the easter holidays as I did), you can get some decent bargains, even by SA standards. One mid-week special, for instance, was offering two nights bed and breakfast plus one dinner for just £90, or just over R1 000. There are numerous other hotels, self-catering houses and B&Bs around the county and whichever one you opt for, you can be sure of a warm welcome. It's what the Irish are good at.

- Eating out: Gone are the days when "pig's arse and cabbage" was the be-all and end-all of Irish cuisine. Even in a smallish place like Enniskillen, there are good restaurants and around the county, pubs offer simple, wholesome and reasonably-priced food.

- Contact: Check out the website at findfermanagh.com or call the friendly, efficient, people at the tourist information centre in Enniskillen (tel: 0044 28 66 346736/ 0044 28 66 323110).

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