I’m in clover in Ireland

Published Oct 17, 2014

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Dublin - Its name elicits images of four-leaf clovers, little bearded men hoarding their pot of gold at the end of every rainbow, Celtic mysticism and, of course, beer. Preferably homegrown Guinness.

My initial expedition to Ireland some four years ago was a whirlwind of dinner at The Brazen Head (the oldest tavern in the country, dating back to 1198) and a pub crawl through various local drinking holes in Dublin, before being whisked off to the lushness of the Killarney countryside – with a pit stop at the historic Ross Castle – to watch the Riverdance crew doing their Irish jig.

A recent second sojourn proved altogether different. For one thing, we got to see some of the capital city’s most treasured sights and, owing to our trip coinciding with the annual Festival Season, we were afforded a taste of authentic Dubliner lifestyle.

From the fashion-conscious gazelles strutting their stuff along the vintage store-lined streets in what’s been designated The Creative Quarter, to the crystal-toting hipsters lurking in dark corners and the techno clubbers clad in stovepipe jeans, it’s a city that caters to all inclinations.

The birthplace of many a creative mind throughout the centuries (WB Yeats, CS Lewis and Oscar Wilde, to name a few), it’s perhaps unsurprising that this same sense of ingenuity pervades every new initiative popping up across this metropolis.

As Michael McDermott, publisher of Dublin’s version of Le Cool online magazine, explained: “A lot of what you see was borne out of the recession. When people lost their jobs, they started considering alternatives; things that they maybe wanted to do when they were still younger and starting out, but never had the money or courage to follow through. But with nothing left to lose, you saw a lot more independent businesses coming up.”

Recession. Alternatives. Independent business. These are words that spill from the mouths of those we encounter during our trip. The financial crisis of 2007-8 that sparked the economic collapse and saw Ireland become the first country in the Eurozone to enter recession still hangs heavy over Irish heads, prompting a determination to never again be dependent on the government or corporations for one’s livelihood.

The Bernard Shaw serves as the perfect example of this pervading sensibility. “A proper 113-year-old Irish boozer”, it was taken over in 2006 by club promoters Bodytonic. While the establishment itself retains a distinctly rustic, frayed appearance, an unmistakable feeling of fresh, fun, tongue-in-cheek youthful exuberance characterises the actual experience.

A mix of daily entertainment and dining options ensure The Bernard Shaw’s popularity – not least for their unconventional pizzas in their Blue Bus pizzeria. Yes, a public bus parked in the Shaw’s backyard, a savvy solution to the council’s complaint that there was insufficient space to accommodate patrons.

The afternoon of our visit, September 19, is particularly buzzing, with the owners – and much of Dublin – frantically preparing for annual Culture Night, scheduled to take place that same evening.

Culture Night sees galleries, studios, museums, historic houses, cinemas, theatres and other performance spaces open their doors to the public, free of charge, with cultural events across the country. The aim is to reignite an interest in and passion for arts and culture, while imbuing a sense of community that is swiftly being lost in urbanised areas.

Originally Dublin-driven, it has spread across the island, with more than 350 000 people participating.

Merrion Square is among the Top 10 go-to venues on Culture Night. Dubbed one of the city’s finest examples of Georgian Dublin, some of the houses once served as residences to Yeats and Daniel O’Connell (“The Liberator”), the first of the great 19th century national Irish leaders.

Culture Night aside, if you’re among the more conventional type of tourist and such attractions sound like just the sort of thing that would appeal to your predilections, a bespoke Architectural Walking Tour will be up your alley.

The tour entails exploring the city on foot and can be tailored to cater for your interests. Our tour took us to City Hall (the seat of municipal government since 1852, which now houses a multimedia exhibition on the city’s history), Dublin Castle, The Iveagh Trust and Marsh’s Library.

Dating back to the 1200s, Dublin Castle has experienced many reincarnations over the centuries, first as a military fortress, then a prison, a treasury, courts of law and, most contentiously, the seat of English administration in Ireland for 700 years.

Nowadays, its primary use is for ceremonial purposes, but it remains a place of great sentiment for Dubliners, since the city’s name is derived from the body of water known as The Black Pool (Dubh Linn in Gaelic) that once filled the site where the garden is currently located.

It’s also where you’ll find the acclaimed Chester Beatty Library. Named for the mining magnate who, upon his death, donated his prized collection to the council, the library houses manuscripts, paintings, prints, drawings, rare books and decorative pieces from the Islamic, East Asian and Western religious traditions and is considered a leading source of scholarship in historical theological studies.

But if it’s something a little more off the beaten Trinity College/Christ Church tourist track you’re after, The Iveagh Trust and Marsh’s Library are your best bet.

Hidden behind the imposing and remarkable structure typically favoured by foreign travellers – St Patrick’s Cathedral – it’s easy to miss Marsh’s. That it’s categorised as a library probably dissuades would-be visitors, who probably envision row after row of boring books.

But you’ll do yourself a disservice if you opt to eschew what, following its opening in 1707, served as Ireland’s first public library.

With over 25 000 volumes (some dating as far back as 1501) encompassing works on topics as diverse as medicine, mathematics, music, science, law, theology, navigation-cum-world travel and classical literature in an assortment of languages including Hebrew, Aramaic, Syriac, Ethiopic, Coptic and Latin, Marsh’s is a literary and archival treasure trove.

It’s probably why even the likes of Bram Stoker and James Joyce are known to have consulted a number of the library’s manuscripts, as inspiration for their acclaimed works Dracula and Ulysess respectively.

From educated and intellectual musings, we stride across the class divide into the area that, to this day, remains a housing project. Originally a constituent of The Guinness Trust founded by Edward Guinness (great-grandson of Arthur, the man who gifted Guinness beer to the world) in 1890, The Iveagh Trust was created to help house Dublin’s destitute.

Constructed at a time when the city was notorious for its pervading poverty and insalubrious slums, the undertaking compromised various buildings sectioned into flats scarcely big enough in which to swing a cat. With no private bathroom nor kitchen facilities per se, residents alternated weekly (sometimes only monthly) use of the Iveagh Public Baths, erected across the street, while coal stoves positioned in the fireplace served as a makeshift scullery.

Crossing over the threshold of Flat 3B on the Bull Alley Estate was a metaphoric step back in time, to the turn of the 20th century.

The only apartment to remain largely unchanged since it was first occupied in 1904, it now serves as a museum, complete with all the personal paraphernalia of its last resident, Nellie Molloy.

Crab-walking through the cramped three-room lodgings, which held that distinctive musty smell of a bygone era, was an exercise in wonderment: just how had Nellie, her five siblings and her parents managed to make a home here, when we equally numbered eight journalists could barely blink without bumping eyelashes?

Fast-forward to later that evening, and it was an all too familiar form of bumping that we found ourselves engaged in: the kind that sees you jostling for position amid the pavements saturated with revellers spilling from every pub, restaurant and night spot. On this occasion, Dublin’s trendy Temple Bar district provided the ultimate party pass, with its cobbled streets that seem so hushed during daylight hours suddenly brought to effervescent life.

And unlike much of our own local nightlife scene (which is invariably skewed in favour of the zygote crowd), true to its city-town feel, Dublin’s after-dark offerings cater for those well into their midlife crisis years, too.

(Tip: For the over 35-year-olds who enjoy a wee booty shake to classic old-school tunes without the annoying presence of intoxicated teeny boppers, pop in to the Snail Bar.)

From the historical, fact-finding and enlightening holiday to the backpacker laid-back alternative that has you sloshing your drink to the tune of Danny Boy in a different pub every evening, Dublin is the sort of the destination that will easily be able to provide you with your poison of choice.

But, should the more adventurous at heart still find themselves experiencing a sense of “surely there must be more?”, why not try your hand at a city kayaking tour on the River Liffey? Even if your kayaking skills leave a lot to be desired (guilty!), it offers a novel way to see the city’s sights – though it’s probably best if you refrain from indulging in an all-night bender before you do so.

Otherwise, you won’t be kayaking so much as jerking your way from one side of the river wall to the other, amid much hilarity. (No names mentioned. Ahem.)

And if all else well and truly fails to whet your touristic appetite, there’s no shame in indulging in a healthy helping of good old-fashioned “eat, drink and be merry” – something Dubliners have perfected the art of doing.

Sláinte!

l Lara de Matos was a guest of Tourism Ireland.

 

If You Go...

Where to stay:

Situated on Drury Street, The Brooks Hotel is ideally located in the centre of the city’s creative heartbeat.

While it is regarded as one of the finest boutique hotels in Dublin, it provides a perfect mix of luxury and a comfy, home-away-from-home atmosphere.

Its Jasmine Bar is a great meeting spot to savour a selection of Irish whiskeys and to indulge in a selection of traditional pub grub to keep the hunger pangs at bay.

Jasmine’s upmarket sister, the Francesca’s Restaurant, caters for the more discerning palate (including an impressive and varied breakfast buffet that will leave you salivating).

 

What’s cooking?

Cleaver East: Housed within the same building as The Clarens Hotel (yup, of co-owner, Bono/U2 fame) and having opened a little more than a year ago, Cleaver East has already carved a niche for itself as a hotspot on Dublin’s restaurant calendar.

The brainchild of Michelin Star chef Oliver Dunne, it’s fashioned as a haute cuisine-meets-Spanish style tapas-meets-traditional Irish fare establishment.

And once dinner is done, head down to The Liquor Rooms, also housed within The Clarens complex.

Decorated in a style akin to Victorian-era England fused with French brothel, this den of iniquity will stir your sinful senses with it’s deliciously intoxicating cocktails. Try the Shoe Shine.

Fallon & Byrne: A food hall, wine cellar, bar and restaurant in one, Fallon & Byrne truly is (as its website describes) “floors of foodie heaven”.

The brassiere-styled restaurant offers delectable dishes made with locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients, served within the back-drop of a relaxed, but nevertheless classy, environment.

Weekend Argus

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