Rome - It was my first visit to Rome and I was captured by the antiquity but appalled by the graffiti which scars so much of the ancient city.
The hideous drawings are on walls, bus and tram shelters, refuse containers, tram ticket machines, street signs and historical buildings, vehicles – almost all available vertical space in many quarters.
I asked a tour guide about it and, looking embarrassed, she said it was the work of young people displaying rebelliousness, anger and frustration, in connection with what she wasn’t sure.
I noticed a resident in the San Lorenzo quarter where we stayed trying hard to clean up the defaced front wall of his home. Locals are apparently angry about the graffiti but there seems little they can do about it.
Putting the graffiti out of mind (as well as the ever-pestering selfie-stick sellers), I was on holiday in Italy with my wife, Colleen, with highlights on our itinerary including an opera at the La Scala Theatre in Milan, an open-air concert performance by the La Scala Philharmonic Orchestra, a train ride through the Alps, Venice and a trip to the Tuscany region around Florence.
A lot of very exciting stuff to get through in 10 days!
The adventure began in Rome where we visited most of the renowned sights including the Colosseum and the Vatican City – both fascinating experiences – plus booking tickets valid for two days on the hop-on, hop-off bus which provided a good overview of Rome and ideas of what to investigate further.
It was not yet high season but already there were long queues at most high-profile attractions as well as plenty of push and shove once inside.
The best idea seems to be to buy tickets online beforehand and plan visits as late as possible when queues shorten significantly.
The Trenitalia trains we used to get between centres in Italy were reasonably priced and travelled smoothly at speeds of around 240km/h. The 600km journey between Rome and Milan took just over three hours!
The transport system in Rome and other centres is excellent, with trains, trams, buses and the underground moving people quickly and efficiently.
There were pickpockets and con artists operating at some of the stations. We got taken for e20 (R280) by a bogus railway official and only just managed to evade the sticky fingers of pickpockets who followed us on to our Rome-Milan train.
Donizetti’s Lucia di Lammermoor opera at the La Scala Theatre in Milan was an evening of awesome splendour – I got caught up in the ever-so-posh occasion and wore a jacket and bow tie on holiday! Unheard of in all my years of travelling. I felt a bit of a ponce but was certainly not out of place as most of the operagoers were dressed to the nines.
The theatre, which has had world-renowned opera singers, including Maria Callas and Luciano Pavarotti, grace its stage, is a grand old lady with a yesteryear appearance and atmosphere.
Another standout event on a bright moonlit evening in Milan was a 90-minute open-air concert by the La Scala Philharmonic Orchestra, featuring upbeat German violinist David Garrett.
Our adventure into the Alps began at 7am in Milan and ended 12 hours later back where we had started – a long day, but more than worth it.
We travelled by bus to Tirano in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, spending an hour or so exploring the quaint town before boarding the Bernina Express. The train line, built more than 100 years ago, winds its way up to its highest point at Ospizio Bernina passing through a wonderland countryside which varies from snow-laden peaks to fields of orchards, chestnut trees and vineyards.
Our final destination was St Moritz. Walking though the resort, the lyrics of the 1960s Peter Sarstedt song, Where Do You Go To My Lovely, were buzzing around in my head, especially the lines: When the snow falls you’re found in St Moritz with others of the jet set; and you sip your Napoleon brandy but never get your lips wet.
Ironically there was little sign of life in the town as, although it was close to high tourist season in Europe, St Moritz only fills up during winter time when there is sufficient snow around to satisfy high-flying skiers!
But with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop, we explored, enjoying the experience of just being there.
We moved on to Venice. I always thought a ride in a gondola would be bit twee, but I thoroughly enjoyed ours along the main canal and some of the “back street” water offshoots.
What made it even more fun were singers and guitar players performing on some of the gondolas.
Our last stop was in Florence from where we also visited Pisa of leaning tower fame and the delightful village of Lucca. Beautiful countryside, amazing architecture, good food and fine wines made our stay in the Tuscany region a treat to savour.
Time flies when you’re having fun and all of a sudden it was time to head home. The pain was eased in grand style when British Airways upgraded us to Business Class (Club World) for the London-Joburg leg and we wallowed in flat beds, fine food and a superb selection of wines all the way back to South Africa.
Talk about happy endings!
l For more information on BA flights between Joburg, London and Rome, and Cape Town, London and Rome, visit the website: ba.com
Greg Dardagan, Saturday Star