Naples - The Amalfi Coast is a magnet on the Mediterranean. It has attracted emperors, royalty and poets alike to its sheer cliffs and sapphire waters. My wife and I were fascinated by its reputation and soon found ourselves drawn towards its pebbled shores. Succumbing to the Amalfi’s allure proved to be one of the best things we’ve done.
The coastline stretches from Sorrento to Solerno, about 60km south east of Naples. Faded pastel-coloured towns and hamlets nestle between steep crags and lush wooded valleys that plunge into the Mediterranean’s deep cobalt blue waters. Scattered lemon orchards, olive trees and vineyards dot the mountainside and add to the coast’s magnificence.
This scene, complimented by a concoction of cool fresh sea air and citrus fragrances, is honestly more exquisite than postcards and travel programmes can convey.
It’s paradise that we were eager to reach. Yet, to get to “The Beauty” you need to negotiate “The Beast”.
The main ways to get to the Amalfi is to either fly or catch a train into Naples.
This frantic, chaotic, shifty and often grimy city is an obstacle course. Travel books warn of its pickpockets, hustlers and maniac drivers. We met the latter: a deranged taxi driver by the name of Giuseppe Franco.
Guiseppe maniacally manoeuvred the tiny roads that clung to the cliffs. Every tight turn felt like it would be our last. My only comfort, as my wife and I clutched hands, was that his car didn’t look particularly dented.
As it turned out, our faith in him was rewarded with Positano: a gorgeous seaside town close to Sorrento on the western end of the Amalfi Coast.
The town has only two one-way streets that service it, with an old mosaic-domed chapel as its centrepiece. Boutiques, delicatessens and galleries line the narrow passages between old mute-coloured buildings, while fishing boats bob in the clear waters below.
We stayed at Tina’s apartment right in the middle of town and a stone’s-throw away from the bus stop. The apartment was perfect: with stunning views of the ocean from our bedroom and the front door leading straight onto the main walkway to the beach.
Our time here was magical. A typical day consisted of waking up, getting our morning espresso and sweet croissant, lying on the pebble beach, swimming in the Powerade-blue waters, ambling along bougainvillea-lined walkways and gorging on pizza and gelato on the pier as we watched the sunset.
After a few days of this blissfully lazy lifestyle, our well-rested bodies headed eastwards towards Atrani.
Atrani is a tiny coastal town (it’s the smallest city in the south of Italy) just east of the grand town of Amalfi, and a perfect base to explore the area. The town is idyllically authentic and has managed to escape the touristy feel of some other coastal towns.
In Atrani everyone seems to know each other. Sunbathing on the rocks to the east of the beach, you feel like you’ve gate-crashed a big Italian family pool party.
Children dive off rocks into the sea while old apple-shaped and Speedo-wearing men wallow a few metres offshore. Voluptuous bikini-clad women gossip while they tan and teens laugh and joke with one another as they eat gelato.
After a refreshing swim in the Mediterranean and sun tan session on the rocks, we lazily walked up to the bus stop to meet Luciana, our wonderful host, who showed us to our accommodation: Caesarina House. This perfectly positioned luxury beach-side apartment allowed us to watch the waves from one of the four balconies while sipping limoncello (locally made) and soaking in la dolce vita (the sweet life).
In the town square we headed to Ristorante Savo’s, a family-owned restaurant famed for legendary master chef Gerardo Savo’s culinary talents. Dishes, made from organically-grown local products, are dizzyingly delicious.
Parma ham and mozzarella antipasto (hor d’oeuvres) set the scene for our first course of home-made seafood pasta; our second course was grilled sea bass with olive oil and mint sauce; then came lemon tiramisu dessert. Each course was unique, wholesome and mouth-watering, and the family were extremely warm and friendly: a genuine Italian experience and a perfect way to end off a day at the coast.
The next day we made the short walk to Amalfi (less than a kilometre away). This historic town was home to the rich and famous in years gone by.
Nowadays the town is a balance of bustling, excited tourists scurrying through narrow streets laced with souvenir shops and restaurants, and peaceful residents going about their day.
The Duomo di Sant’ Andrea Apostolo (a cathedral) in the town square is the resting place of St Andrew the apostle (brought to Amalfi in 1208). Each year, the Amalfi’s residents parade a large statue of the Saint through the streets and down to the docks to bless the ships.
This is done to commemorate St Andrew having saved Amalfi from Turkish pirate ships in 1544. The procession ends with a fireworks display that delights residents and tourists alike.
Leaving the Amalfi Coast is difficult. The cliffs and water seem to shield you from the rest of the world. And as you float in the cool sea watching gulls circling near the cliffs, you soon realise that your only worries have become whether you’ll have pizza or lasagna tonight, or whether you want to swim some more, lie on the beach or have a gelato.
Yes, it’s difficult to leave and easy to see why emperors and royalty have been attracted to these shores throughout the ages.
If You Go...
l Relax on the beaches and swim (note: private beaches cost about R150 a day a person, but the public sections are free and have a better atmosphere).
l Take a boat trip from Positano to Capri.
l Visit Ristorante Savo’s in Atrani, www.tripadvisor.com
Where to stay:
l Tina’s apartment in Positano (R2 040 a night, accommodates four people), www.airbnb.com
l Caesarina House in Atrani (R2 040, accommodates seven people), www.airbnb.com
The Mercury