Amalfi - As the wispy clouds obscure the tops of the sheer-sided mountains, you can imagine the fisherman of the Amalfi coast of yore looking upwards and wondering about the gods dwelling in those heavens.
And, when a rambling path was established between the town of Bomerano and Nocelle, along Monte Peruso, 550m above the Amalfi Coast, it was only a matter of time before someone named it Il Sentiero degli Dei (The Path of the Gods). When you walk it – as you must if you are ever in this, one of the most beautiful parts of Italy – you gaze down on scenery so stunning you feel, sometimes, as though you are god-like…
Four hours and 13km may seem strenuously long for many armchair travellers, but for us – a group of “mature” South Africans – it was a privilege which far outranked the physical effort. Despite mist moving in and out during our hike, for four hours we savoured spectacular views: of vineyards and other crops neatly stacked against the slopes, of winding roads and yachts serenely cruising across the sea far below, of impressive rock masses high above and lush trees and shrubs sporting their new greenery all around us.
If the Path of the Gods is not on your bucket list, it should be. Not arduous to the extreme but, at times it certainly challenges one’s fitness and stamina, particularly if you, like some of us, choose to include the detour to the church and monastery of San Domenico. The church is open and frescoes dating back centuries can be viewed.
The placid, spiritual sense of place, high above not only the coast, but seemingly high above the everyday worries of life, left us feeling spiritually and emotionally refreshed, even though we were physically weary.
The Amalfi Coast is also known as the Divine Coast and you can see why. There are picturesque towns hanging off cliff faces that plunge almost vertically into the sea, winding narrow roads and fishing harbours, against a backdrop history, culture, food and hospitality.
The last two we experienced in abundance at Villa Gianlica in Praiano, one of many cosy and fashionable resorts along the coast and our “home base” during the first week of our Italian holiday.
Owned by the Buoncore family, this cosy boutique hotel offers a welcoming and refined environment. Recently refurbished with the finest of finishes, every nook and cranny presents an exquisite cameo, either stylishly decorated with flowers, sets of books, a ceramic pot or a fresco. As an encore, it sits atop delightful flowering terraces, a lush vegetable garden and a lemon orchard overlooking the clear blue waters of the Amalfi Coast far below.
The garden surrounding the pool area sports all kinds of shrubs, herbs and flowers, including the most beautiful ruby-red rose climber, all of which enjoy the meticulous attention of the female gardener each day.
After enjoying a small, healthy “Banting” breakfast along with a perfect cup (or two) of cappuccino, served by daughter Angelica on the terrace or in the adjoining breakfast room each morning, we were ready to scout the Amalfi area, starting with the Path of the Gods.
After our hike we took the bus to nearby Positano for lunch. We randomly selected the centrally located Ristorante al Palazzo, where we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch Italian style. Seated under a huge marquee surrounded by a vegetable garden, quirky ceramic heads filled with flowers and a lush pergola covered with luscious lemons, the setting was ideal.
A brief visit to the beach concluded a truly magical day. Covered with dark brown stony sand, the small, compact beach is clearly a favourite place for young lovers to hang out and cuddle quite intimately.
There is no shortage of things to see and do. Just a stone’s throw away is the famed isle of Capri.
Despite heavy clouds, the cruise to the island was worth the stack of euros we paid to have exclusive use of the boat for the day. No sooner had we set off from a small bay on the outskirts of Praiano than our friendly, courteous skipper started treating us to champers and nibbles.
For hours on the way to Capri, we could simply sit back and enjoy the sight of a string of towns and hamlets nestling above the coastline, numerous islands, big and small (one of which once belonged to ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev), various fascinating rock structures rising from the waters and a number of coves, including Capri’s world-famous grottos.
After docking at the harbour of Capri, we headed straight to Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri to take the chairlifts to the summit of Capri’s equally famous Monte Solaro, which soars 589m above sea level. The 12-minute trip to the top, while enjoying the beautiful panorama of the entire island, the surrounding Bay of Naples, the Amalfi Coast and even the distant mountains of Calabria was, despite a freezing wind, exhilarating. On the way back to Praiano, a delicious lunch at the restaurant Il Cantuccio in Arezzo, followed by more Champagne and snacks on the boat, was the cherry on top of another memorable day.
Although we were reluctant to bid farewell to the Amalfi Coast, the island of Sicily harboured a charm of its own, particularly the picturesque town of Taormina.
After 12 hours of travelling south on the A2-highway, we reached the port in Reggio Calabria, where we took the ferry to Messina and our hotel in the fashionable coastal area of Giardini Naxos.
Following an early dinner and a good night’s sleep, we were ready to tackle the day-long trip to Mount Etna, Europe’s largest and most visited volcano, the next morning.
The public holiday on May 1, which coincided with a perfect spring day, encouraged thousands of Sicilians to take to the forests for a picnic at the foothills of Etna. Many ventured to the top of the volcano, either by foot or by cable car, but the four-hour long wait for the latter was too long for us. Seeing the masses of molten lava and countless “skeletons” of trees on the northern side of the volcano was more than enough to recognise anew nature’s force.
Faintly similar to Positano, yet very different, is Sicily’s popular resort town of Taormina, our last stop on the way back to the ferry and southern Italy for the last lap of our holiday. Boasting endless winding medieval streets, tiny passages and pathways decorated with colourful pots and flowers, umpteen restaurants, street cafés and ice-cream bars, it comes as no surprise that this romantic town with its magnificent view of both the sea and Etna in the distance, inspired a self-exiled D H Lawrence to write his erotic novel, Lady Chatterly’s Lover.
Back on the mainland, set high on the cliffs above beaches and the blue Calabrian Sea, the old fortified town of Tropea provided a perfect setting in which to spend our last week in Italy.
Memorable and magical moments, such as two very special dinners at a pizzeria where Al Pacino’s former personal chef is now master of the kitchen, followed thick and fast. Add to this, with our second day-long cruise to some of the volcanos on the Aeolian Islands, our long list of southern Italian highlights got longer.Yet despite – or perhaps because of that – we all agreed, we’ve got to come back…
Wilma de Bruin, Saturday Star