New York - It was way back in the 1970s that I first heard the term the Big Apple used as a nickname for New York. I didn’t have a clue about its origin or meaning and considered the label ludicrous.
Later I learned that the tag has to do with New York being the premier place, a city bursting at the seams with opportunities. As one source puts it: there are many apples on the tree but only one Big Apple.
Now here I was, sitting knees up Mother Brown style in a packed World Travellers Class section of a British Airways flight to London to connect to New York.
Momentarily I wondered why the hell I was doing this when I could be in the great outdoors on the road to another African adventure. But the decision had been made a long time ago – this year we would be venturing into the First World instead of our usual annual motorised sortie to destinations north of our borders.
My wife, Colleen, and I were on our way to savour as much live music as possible during a two-week stay in the US, taking in the Big Apple as well as Memphis, Nashville and New Orleans.
“Long-distance information give me Memphis Tennessee; Help me find a party trying to get in touch with me…” – the lyrics of the rock classic were ringing in my ears.
Our connecting flight from London was a class act. We got an upgrade to Club World (business class), which allowed us to wallow in the stretch-out/lie-down seats and be waited on by stewardesses dishing up scrumptious grub plus fine wines, cocktails and champers.
We had enjoyed a hearty breakfast on the flight from OR Tambo to Heathrow, munched on another in one of the excellent BA Galleries lounges (also had a shower there) and then had a third breakfast on the 8.30am flight to New York.
Because of the time zone change we could have had a fourth breakfast, landing as we did just after 10.30am, but resisted and instead scoffed strawberry jam and cream scones, washed down with a glass of sauvignon blanc.
And then New York, New York was right there, at our fingertips.
The Skytrain and underground whisked us into the core of the Apple, where we hailed a yellow cab for our hotel, the New York Hilton Midtown on the Avenue of the Americas in central Manhattan.
The renowned 50-year-old hotel is conveniently situated within walking distance of many attractions including Broadway, Times Square, Central Park, Radio City Music Hall, 5th Avenue shopping and the Rockefeller Centre.
Useful is the recently introduced Herb & Kitchen facility run by an outside company which provides quality meals, snacks and drinks. Prices are reasonable and the room service fee is affordable although dining facilities are offered on site.
Incorporated into the hotel is the Minus5 Ice Bar where everything is made of ice, including the bar, tables, benches and glasses.
Despite being jet-lagged we rushed to get to the theatre district. There within minutes, we were overawed by the enormity of it – bright lights, big city went straight to our heads.
Into Times Square, where long lines of would-be theatregoers queued outside a facility hoping to snap up tickets for the evening’s performances. Up high was the Timeball ready to plunge down – as it has done on so many previous occasions – when the clock strikes midnight on December 31.
The neon lights shone brightly on Broadway – even at lunchtime – as we strolled past theatres boasting shows such as Chicago, Jersey Boys, Kinky Boots, Pippin, The Lion King, Mamma Mia!, Wicked, The Snowbirds, Little Miss Sunshine, and the musical everyone was clamouring to get into – The Book of Mormon.
We saw the multi-award winning show at a cost which made my stomach turn. The performance was sold out, with some patrons standing at the back of the theatre.
Tickets had been going at $400 (about R4 000) although the face cost was $175.
New York is expensive, especially at a rate of 10 of ours for one of theirs, but as tourists on a short stay you have to grimace and bear it.
The Hilton was an ideal springboard for visits to the tourist spots – many within an easy walk or a short hop on the underground or efficient bus service.
Our stroll to Central Park took 15 minutes. Other than walking, options for touring the park included a horse-drawn carriage, bicycles, rollerblades or as passengers on a one-man powered bicycle cart costing up to $5 a minute.
One of the most popular sites in the park is Strawberry Fields, an area set aside by the New York City Council in honour of John Lennon of the Beatles, who was living in the city with his wife, Yoko Ono, when he was shot dead outside his luxury apartment in 1980. Ono later donated $1-million to the council for the upkeep of the area.
Musicians were everywhere in the park, including a guitarist singing Beatles numbers at the Strawberry Fields patch, a saxophonist at one of the open-air auditoriums, and a five-piece R&B group performing alongside a walkway.
The advice was to visit at least one of New York’s museums, with the Natural History Museum recommended. Again we walked from the hotel – it took about 30 minutes. Entrance was $35 and worth the money.
We bought $50 tickets from a double-decker bus company giving us three days of hop on/hop off tours as well as the highlight, a 90-minute cruise on the Hudson River providing a front seat view of the city skyline and the structure which identifies NYC worldwide, the Statue of Liberty.
The new World Trade Center has grown out of the site of Ground Zero. Nearing completion, it stands as the tallest building in the US, a beacon of defiance and hope in the face of world terrorism. A memorial has been established at the site in the form of two square pools set in the footprints of the original twin towers. The names of all the 2 983 victims of 9/11 are inscribed in bronze on the perimeters of the pools.
After a tour of the memorial, we visited the nearby 100-year-old St Thomas Church, which miraculously escaped damage in the 9/11 towering inferno.
We enjoyed a presentation titled Bach at One, featuring the 22-member Choir of Trinity Wall Street, which concluded with a rousing rendition of Benjamin Britten’s Rejoice in the Lamb.
Among our best outings was one to Dizzy’s Club at the Home of Jazz at the Lincoln Center on 60th Street, where pianist Benny Green and bassist Christian O’Brian entertained dinner guests with jazz of the highest quality. What a treat in such an atmosphere-filled venue.
We also walked across Brooklyn Bridge, went to the top of the Empire State Building, toured the fashion stores and boutiques, did some shopping at Macy’s, billed as the world’s biggest department store, and more.
Our six days went by in a flash. We had walked with New Yorkers – and they walk fast – and talked with New Yorkers, sometimes struggling to understand their English. There is an amazing vibe in the city which creates a general feeling that anything is possible, and if it’s going to happen it will happen in New York.
On departure day we were on the streets at 5am with suitcases in tow walking to the underground station to catch a ride to La Guardia Airport for a flight to Memphis, amped for the musical treats in store.
l For more information on British Airways flights, go to ba.com; and for follow-ups with the New York Hilton Midtown visit the website at www.newyorkhiltonmidtown.com or telephone 001 212 586 7000
The inside track
Marc Ricci is the director of corporate communications for Hilton Hotels in north-east United States and Canada. He provides insight here for South African tourists in a question and answer interview:
Q What is the best time for a holiday in New York City?
A September and October.
Q The ideal length of the stay?
A Seven to 10 days.
Q Must-see attractions?
A Rockefeller Centre, Radio City, Central Park, Empire State Building, Chrysler Building, the 9/11 Memorial, Trinity Church, Brooklyn Bridge, Yankee Stadium, Broadway and the New York Botanical Gardens.
Q One-day excursions out of the city?
A Historic Hudson Valley, Long Island, Jersey Shore and the Catskills Mountains.
Q One thing to avoid in New York City?
A Driving. Rather use bicycles or walk.
Q Best places to eat for a special treat?
A Le Bernadin at 155 West 51st Street in Midtown for French cuisine; Il Vagabondo at East 62nd Street for Italian food; Sparks Steak House at 210 East 46th Street; and Bella Napoli at 150 West 49th Street in Midtown West and Pizzaarte at 69 West 55th Street for pizzas.
Q Ideal budget shopping places?
A Saks 5th Avenue, Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor and Macy’s. And for real bargains, Century 21 on John Street in Lower Manhattan
Q Where to stay in New York?
A Always at the New York Hilton Midtown – without a doubt. - Sunday Tribune