The Secret Diner: Not all plain sailing at new venue

The Fish & Wine Company at the Pearls in uMhlanga.

The Fish & Wine Company at the Pearls in uMhlanga.

Published Nov 11, 2017

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WHERE:

Fish & Wine Company

Shop B9, The Pearls, 7 McCausland Crescent, uMhlanga

Call:

 031 941 6896/97

Open:

Daily lunch and dinner

We wanted a Sunday night adventure, and had heard a new fish restaurant had opened in the Pearls in uMhlanga. We’d heard good reports from friends who knew a bit about food. And so started an adventure… 

Fish & Wine Company is a chain specialising predictably in seafood. It’s a smart, modern space with a large deck and views of the little of the ocean left at this part of the the concrete jungle. 

The “ceiling” superstructure is a large wooden ribbed installation, all very Scandinavian in appeal. I think it was meant to resemble an upside-down ship, although I had the distinct feeling I was Jonah dining in the belly of the whale.

We opted for some nibbles while waiting for the rest of the gang. The special of fish cakes with home-made tartare sauce (R95) went down exceptionally well. The fish cakes were packed full of fish, although I would have preferred more herbs. And we enjoyed the crisp Thai prawn springrolls (R85) with excellent ponzu dipping sauce. A side order of edamame beans (R35) was served in the pod which, sadly, was very stringy. So far, plain sailing.

Other starters include tempura prawns, steamed mussels, Parmesan crusted prawn bites 

and ways with calamari.

But then came mains. My English-style hake and chips (R125) was enjoyable with a good, crisp batter, but the side salad was so drenched in a super-sweet dressing I could not eat it. 

A friend’s seared tuna (R215) was ordered rare and came so cooked through that she sent it back. The replacement portion was better cooked, but an exceptionally stringy piece of fish. Another ordered a tuna sushi platter (R265) and said he enjoyed his meal, although I would not have been happy with the colour of the tuna. Another went with the special of 12 king prawns (R250). These had to be sent back for regrilling as one was frozen.

The seafood bunny chow from the light meals menu (R95) was probably the pick of the meals. 

To the restaurant’s credit they took our criticisms well and the offending tuna dish was removed from the bill. And the service was very good and friendly.

We left for the real adventure… a night cap (or two) at the Beverly Hills down the road.

Food: 2

Ambience: 3

Service: 4

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