Cape Town - Change is perceptible as vintners and visitors discover the potential and charm of the Voor Paardeberg. This small north-western ward of Paarl now boasts farm ownership that embraces Cape families with deep roots, with Britons, Irish, Swiss and Italians, each with a story to tell.
Wine marketing guru Michela Sfiligoi and partner, agronomist Attilio Dalpiaz, left their native Friuli one cold wet winter to holiday in South Africa with friends.
Like many others, they fell in love with the Boland, the people, the weather and the wine, and returned. They settled in a Paarl guest house, engaged an estate agent and started looking at farms. The 50th and final inspection, of a Huguenot farm with soul and heart-stopping views across to Table mountain, is now their home, where they make Ayama wines.
With friends as partners, Attilio and Michela took over a spread of 60ha of vines, more of export plums and pears to which they added groves of olive varieties.
It took this dynamic couple several years to learn about soils, grape cultivars, local biodiversity goals and the culture of the 45 adults and children who live and work on the farm.
The old farmstead was renovated, lent an African touch or two, and doubles as a tasting centre and home.
Attilio, while exploring high slopes around some old oak trees, summoned Michela on his cellphone: “Quick, bring the camera!” He was gazing, with some incredulity, at a huge porcini mushroom. These are now lovingly harvested in autumn, and protected from the local baboon troop who queue for their share of tomatoes, beans and courgettes.
Of course baboons like grapes as well, particularly shiraz. With admirable good humour, the newcomers focused on humane ways to limit the damage. Small antelope, who nibbled new shoots of young olive trees, presented another problem, until locals told Attilio to paint the trees with a paste made from cow dung and water.
Existing vineyards of chenin, merlot, cab and shiraz still produce well. Lacking facilities, Michela has been making Ayama wines at the KWV cellar and, until recently, practically all production has been exported, finding particular success in the Far East. She plans to increase exports to more than 20 countries this year.
Ayama chenin blanc 2012 was crowned champion in its category at the Paarl Wine Route Challenge last year, also picking up silver at the IWSC in the UK. The modest cellar door price of R46 remains unchanged. The maiden trio of Ayama Cap Classiques, launched last October, has been acclaimed both locally and abroad. The 2008 all-chardonnay Blanc de Blancs pair well with summer fare, while the 2009 brut, from pinot and chardonnay, presents classic biscuit aromas followed by apple and citrus. The four-star rosé 2010, which contains a little pinotage, is crisp and dry, yeasty and inviting. They sell for R119.
This year sees an even more demanding schedule, as old farm buildings are being gutted and revamped to accommodate a tasting centre, office and, most importantly, a cellar. Attilio will be planting vermentino this winter after a five-year wait for six imported buds to be propagated and cleared by local authorities. This Sardinian clone is, says Michela, a perfect grape for the Paardeberg climate and soil, producing aromatic white wines which handle wood well. Carignan will also be introduced along with Petit Manseng.
No matter how hectic life is, visitors are welcomed for tastings but are asked to make appointments. Prices start from R46 for whites to R75 for the red Baboon range. Their olive oil is golden and peppery and a gift at R55 for 500ml.
Attilio, like many a Western Cape viticulturist, is experiencing a challenging wine harvest. Not for the first time, I have heard mutterings about red grapes ripening earlier than whites this year!
* Visit www.ayama.co.za or e-mail [email protected]
Wine calendar
The Durbanville cellars decided jointly to hold their Feast of the Grape harvest festival at one venue this year.
Taking place on March 1 and 2, D’Aria farm is the place where a dozen of the regions’ cellars will present tastings.
Stalls will offer harvest fare with local flavour such as venison pate with grape and onion jam, and oysters with sauvignon blanc jelly.
Tutored tastings are free, but are limited to 30 visitors: Book through [email protected]
Children will be catered for, and grape stomping is on the programme. Entrance costs R50 and tasting glass and coupons cost another R50. Children under 12 go in free. Book through www.webtickets.co.za. - Weekend Argus