If cab is king, can its best winemakers be dubbed royal? Some would say yes, and they would probably be producers in Stellenbosch and the Helderberg.
Traditionally these areas produce illustrious cabernets, and have done so for many decades. Today the picture has changed only partially: while those regions continue to release fine, long-lasting cabernet sauvignons, cellars in other regions are releasing cabs that occasionally attract five stars – but a look at the back label often reveals that grapes from Stellenbosch were used.
With no vineyards of his own, Etienne le Riche is among the best producers of cabernet in the country, a title bestowed on him way back when he helped take Rustenberg wines to prestigious heights.
In 1996 he refurbished a derelict cellar on a small farm in the Jonkershoek valley, installed high-quality second-hand equipment and a bottling line, and spent time sourcing the best grapes from Jonkershoek, Simonsberg and Bottelary Hills. The reception afforded his maiden cab, the Le Riche Reserve 1997, must have astounded even its creator: it scooped five Platter stars, Veritas double gold and the Air France Preteux Bourgeois trophy, and was earmarked for SAA’s first-class winelist.
Subsequent vintages have followed in style, establishing this as an icon wine, while his standard cabernet sauvignons do not stand in the Reserve’s shadow.
Le Riche’s unassuming modesty is appealing and genuine, as he is known to be happiest working in his cellar, often with assistant winemaker Mark Daniels. Among his attributes are a Master’s degree in viticulture, and as founder member of the Cape Winemakers Guild, his auction wines attract impressive prices year after year.
Today the Le Riche operation has expanded to include son Christo, who, after graduating from Stellenbosch University, worked in cellars in California and Bordeaux before joining his father.
During a gradual takeover of the winemaking , he has introduced stylistic changes, with current releases showing more fruit and richer succulence than than his father’s traditionally restrained approach.
Daughter Yvonne, a Cape Wine Master student and graduate in politics and economics, has taken on marketing, sales and exports.
Those who still possess Le Riche cabs dating back to the start of this century, or even the close of the last, may wish to compare them with the current cabernet (R160) and cabernet sauvignon reserve (R360), both 2009, an acclaimed vintage in the Cape. The reserve, while classic in style and made to last, shows more fruit and juicy tannins than the earlier examples. The Le Riche cabernet, also more approachable, was made with grapes from five Stellenbosch wards, spent two years in French oak, and offers winelovers a fine mate for winter dishes.
Visitors are welcome by appointment. If you choose to taste at the cellar, there’s also a luscious cab/ merlot blend and a classic chardonnay 2010 to sample.
* Recently, a vertical tasting of Plaisir de Merle’s cab from 1993-1999 marked cellarmaster Niel Bester’s 20th vintage at this elegant Simondium cellar. While the ’93 was teetering on the brink, the ’94 was as fresh as a daisy, demonstrating the lasting quality of the style introduced in that decade. The ’95 and ’99 cabs also impressed most tasters, and these were followed by a delightful 2001 merlot and a delicious 2008 malbec. Fans of this cultivar may want to snap up some of the latter, of which only 250 cases were made.
Another cellar producing cabs that straddle the divide between “serious” and “drinkable” with notable success is Waterkloof, and their Circumstance cabernet 2009 (R155) is a good example.
Kleine Zalze, a cellar that seldom disappoints, sells polished, enjoyable ’09 cabernet from the Vineyard Selection range for R96.
Another well-priced cab that makes a good introduction to the king of grapes is the 2009 Durbanville Hills (R69), the only example in this line-up not from Stellenbosch. All of which proved two points – the fine quality of the 2009 vintage and the superiority of Stellenbosch when hunting down fine cab. - Weekend Argus