Cape Town - Six chenins and a chard… to which Johan added a trio of bubblies as an aperitif and a riveting roussanne to finish. And so my tasting session at Simonsig extended toward noon on a weekday, just before the start of harvest.
Along with its proud position as the first cellar to produce a cap classique 41 years ago, founder Frans Malan is also renowned as one of the trio who started the Stellenbosch wine route.
Today, cellarmaster Johan and brothers Francois and Pieter continue to innovate, while maintaining the cellar’s reputation for quality and consistency. The next generation, Johan’s son Michael – requisite degree under his belt – garners practical experience in New World vineyards.
The Simonsig bubblies consist of a charming rosé – made for early drinking and an essential accompaniment to romance – while the classic Kaapse Vonkel proves its longevity potential with the 2007, a worthy museum class winner characterised by a full mouthfeel and agreeable nuttiness.
The patrician Cuvee Royale 2010, a fresh and elegant sparkler, presents delicious citrussy zest alongside a creamy mousse.
Fruity and affordable, the 2013 chenin, Platter’s superquaffer of the year, is summer in a bottle, contrasting nicely with the 2012 Chenin avec Chène – a rich and impressive wine but less concentrated (and more accessible) than previous vintages. We sampled other chenin vintages, followed by a 2013 creamy, citrussy chardonnay of impressive quality.
Having tasted Simonsig roussanne before, I was ready for another sip or two: this southern French Rhone cultivar, grown here in minute quantities, shows great potential as revealed in the maiden vintage released last year, which attracted five stars from Platter and caused a stir at the CWG auction.
Wild yeast fermented, matured in old French oak, it’s an exciting, serious white wine, spice dominating fruit and minerality to the fore in its complex structure.
“The CWG auction is a playground where we can experiment,” Johan said, as he poured from a 500ml sample bottle, where 20 percent chenin 2012 added to the roussanne produces an expressive, full-bodied blend.
While Simonsig is also known for its ranges of reds, particularly cab and pinotage, along with shiraz and classic blends, these need a tasting session all to themselves.
Lunch at the Cuvee restaurant was a delectable experience; I hadn’t seen the sophisticated new décor while cellarmaster Malan finds he is apt to spend the rest of the working day meeting and greeting old friends when he books a table, so he doesn’t do this too often. Chef Lucas Carstens presents a compact menu that balances trends and seasonal ingredients with rustic touches.
Johan’s crispy squid shared its rectangular plate with avo, chorizo, leaves and sweetcorn, while my choice of the cheese platter starred a generous selection of artisanal cheeses partnered with nuts, dried apricots, fresh figs and melba toast.
Summer desserts followed, where a pretty berried sundae with rich mascarpone ice-cream was (just) outclassed by my silky panna cotta – coconut-flavoured, sauced with granadilla and lemon, accompanied by pineapple sorbet.
I left thinking that for quality, variety and diversity, our winelands venues rate among the best in the old and new wine worlds. Add on magnificent mountain settings and a weak rand, and it’s little wonder it’s boom time in the Cape. - Weekend Argus