Raise a glass to some brilliant bubblies

Simonsig cellarmaster Johan Malan.

Simonsig cellarmaster Johan Malan.

Published Nov 23, 2011

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Raise a glass to some good wine news for a change, and given that it’s about bubbly, it’s particularly appropriate. South African sales are surging – in the sparkling wine and Cap Classique categories – to the tune of nearly 20 percent annually.

As consumers turn to fizz to make a toast, to partner meals from morning to midnight or just to enjoy, Cape producers meet these lifestyle demands with a choice that is little short of extraordinary.

Cap Classiques or MCCs are the classier bubblies, made in the traditional style of French Champagne, which takes both time and expertise, while sparkling wines have had their bubbles injected into the tank in the form of carbon dioxide. This round-up should include a bubbly to suit all palates and purses – and there are dozens more out there.

Simonsig’s 2009 Kaapse Vonkel Brut (R98) is a fine Cap Classique for every occasion which also marks the 40th birthday of Cap Classiques in South Africa. In 1971 Frans Malan released the maiden vintage, made from chenin, priced at R3. The 2009 winner, made from chardonnay and pinot noir, scooped the top award at the 2011 Amorim Cork Cap Classique challenge.

Another seductive classic is Boschendal’s Grande Cuvee Brut 2007 (R105), which attracted four and half stars in the same challenge, winning the vintage category, followed with a double gold at Veritas. The news that this cellar has resumed production of fine fizz recently after a break of a decade, will delight many fans.

To Robertson, where Graham Beck recently launched an addition to their impressive line-up of Cap Classiques. Cellarmaster Pieter Ferreira released Brut Zero (R205), a bubbly that has not had a top-up or “dosage” of sweetened wine to replace what was lost during disgorgement. Few of these are produced as the wine needs to be of a particular purity, and this MCC has been six years in the making.

Bone dry, crisp and showing more mineral than fruity qualities, it’s one for connoisseurs and for slimmers, as it has fewer calories.

To compare sugar levels, a sparkling wine labelled “doux” or sweet would have 50g or more residual sugar per litre. “Sec” or dry on the label indicates 18-35g, while brut zero or zero dosage means the wine has 0-3g.

Organic enthusiasts should head to Woolies where the new vintage of Sauvignon Blanc Brut is on the shelves at just under R45. This sparkler is sourced from a single vineyard on Houtbaai farm in the hills behind McGregor, a fully certified organic operation, and is made at Rooiberg cellar outside Robertson. It offers fresh, crisp enjoyment way beyond its price tag.

Another budget-beater that caters happily for those seeking sweet bubbles with luscious fruit and no pretensions is Four Cousins Blush (R42 ex-cellar), fizz that flies off the shelves all over South Africa.

Pongracz has made much-loved Cap Classiques for years, and the Hungarian nobleman who inspired the original vintages at the Cape continues to be honoured with quality releases. The recently released 2003 Desiderius (R235), in its eye-catching golden fluted bottle, is the flagship, collecting top honours at this year’s Old Mutual Trophy show. Their new petite Pongracz – both the classic (R58) and brut rosé (R68) – are housed in stylish 375ml bottles.

Similarly, the all-time Franschhoek favourite Pierre Jourdan Brut from Haute Cabriere is now also available in 375ml bottles (R54).

JC Le Roux is another name synonymous with fizz and they have done much to educate locals and visitors with their easy-to-enjoy tastings outside Stellenbosch.

Their latest release is a non-vintage Brut (R58), accessible yet presenting the classic flavours inherent in good Cap Classiques. - Weekend Argus

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