Kathi rolls come in many guises, few of which resemble cold wraps as we know them. Different places have their own versions and there are no strict rules: as long as a soft bread with a slight chew envelopes a fresh, hot, tangy filling with red onions for crunch, you are in the right zone and in for a treat.They’re tasty, everyone loves them and they are easy to throw together. You can also substitute chicken for the paneer. If you are in a hurry, you can buy tortilla wraps and cut them in half, but homemade wraps are cheaper and tastier.

Makes 10 medium-small, or 15 tiny, rolls

100g plain yoghurt, not too sour
20g roughly chopped root ginger (peeled weight)
2 large garlic cloves
Scant ⅔ tsp garam masala (fresh if possible)
Scant ⅔ tsp ground cumin
1tsp chaat masala
½ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp concentrated tomato purée
tsp chilli powder, or to taste

For the rolls
240g paneer, cut into small fingers 2cm wide x 5cm long
2 tbsps vegetable oil
¾ small green (bell) pepper, thinly sliced
Good handful of thinly sliced red onion rings
​50ml tangy herb chutney (see below)
Freshly ground black pepper

For the wrap
125g (1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus more to dust
1tbsp vegetable oil
6-8tbsps water, or as needed

Blend together all the ingredients for the marinade. Season to taste with salt; I use 1tsp. Add the paneer, gently turn the pieces to coat, and leave to marinate as you prepare the dough.

Put the flour in a bowl and pour in the oil, water and a good pinch of salt. Knead together well; it will be a bit squelchy at the beginning but should become lovely and soft without cracks once it is done. Cover with a damp dish towel and leave to rest for 20 minutes.

To make the breads, place a tava or frying pan over a medium heat. Divide the dough into 10 pieces and roll each out on a work surface lightly dusted with flour into a thin, round bread around 13cm (5in) in diameter. Dust any excess flour off the bread and place on the pan.

Cook, turning once, until the bread has just a few light brown spots on both sides; it only takes a minute or so. Repeat to cook all the breads, stacking them on a dish towel, covering each with the corners as you go to help keep them soft. (You can also reheat them in some foil in the oven.)

Now back to the rolls. Heat the 2tbsps oil in a saucepan, add the pepper and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the paneer and all its marinade and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has reduced and you can see oil in the pan, 6-8 minutes or so. You might need to add a splash of water at some point once the pan gets dry. Add the onions and cook for another minute, or until the liquid now just coats the ingredients and is still moist. Take off the heat.

Working quickly, spoon a line of the filling down the centre of each wrap, top with 1 rounded tsp of tangy herb chutney, wrap them up and serve hot.